2005 limited. Bas/esp TPMS LIGHTS ARE ON.
spoiler light flashes, and doesn’t work.
Top switch stays lit. And beeps when I push it.
no washer fluid spraying, don’t even here it kicking on.
replaced RCM, didn’t change a thing.
put new washer fluid pump on, still nothing. No damage to washer resovoir.
however when I add fluid to tank, it drains from a large hole next to tank. A wire from the washer resovoir goes up into this factory hole.
I don’t see a switch people mention on passenger side windshield frame where top sits.
activate top windows go down.
SORRY I KNOW THIS IS A LOT OF INFORMATION. But if anyone has any recommendations I will be seriously greatfull for your time. And expertise

 

I forgot to mention in my earlier post, with same title.
my battery drains overnight also. Nothing is on. Going to start disconnecting negative terminal until I figure it out.

 

You did not tell us enough. You left out: Did this all start at once? Did you just buy a car that's a basket case? Did you just take it out of storage (where mice have chewed wires)? What is the history here?

Bas/esp TPMS LIGHTS ARE ON.
spoiler light flashes, and doesn’t work.
Top switch stays lit. And beeps when I push it.
All of the above (cept for the TPMS light) give me the idea that the CLP/SSM may be wet and therefore destroyed. That is, the one common element is the CLP/SSM, you could have unrelated issues.

no washer fluid spraying, don’t even here it kicking on.
replaced RCM, didn’t change a thing.
put new washer fluid pump on, still nothing. No damage to washer resovoir.
however when I add fluid to tank, it drains from a large hole next to tank. A wire from the washer resovoir goes up into this factory hole.
See, now I am thinking the BCM has failed, as it plays a part in the operation of wipers/washer as well as top and wing operation. Did you measure voltages to see if the pump is getting power from the BCM? Does not sound like it is.

I don’t see a switch people mention on passenger side windshield frame where top sits.
Look closer. You can only see it with the top partway up. See the thread "Top Sensors": https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-sensors.html for photos.
But with all the other items, I don't think it's that switch, you appear to have system-wide problems here. The BCM is flashing the spoiler button and the top controller is also indicating a problem. A failed "top open" switch would not cause all of that.

activate top windows go down.
That only proves that the BCM and Top module are basically alive, and the latch retainer switch in the windshield frame is OK.

I'd be interested to know the history of the car. Sounds like you bought a car off a lot with a lot of problems, or you stored the car where rodents got into it and did damage. But flooded CLP/SSMs are rather common and can cause a lot of the trouble you have. That washer thing, tho, seems unrelated.

 

Sorry for the lack of more detail.
yea car was stored from October until last week.
no this isn’t a bucket case off a lot. I’ve owned the car from day one. Purchased in July 2005.
I did notice a severed wire below the relay module box, where the RCM IS LOCATED.
it is a very thin wire. Has been like that for years.
there is any moisture anywhere. The car has always been stored inside a garage.
the bas/esp came on 2 years ago.
I have done the steering turn from right to left a couple of times. No luck
last fall the top and spoiler issue started and yes I did the manual open and close top up and down 3x no luck
so here I am.
this isn’t some piece of junk, I do have other things in my life that also require attention.
thank you for your time and knowledge
mom sure I left out some other detail probably

 

Please don't be offended, but you can't expect ANYONE to be able to help without the full story. We are not standing next to your car, you are. We only know what you tell us, the car is a complex set of systems and even describing a symptom can be hard to do I know, consider how hard it is to understand.

I did not see this before. This is where you start. There are a lot of reasons, but just understand, as long as you have this going on, you can't proceed with the rest. A drain that bad can easily be caused by the same thing that is making the top and wing act up - fix the drain and you might be surprised at what else starts working fine. Many will tell you to "disconnect the siren" because it is a common issue. MY TAKE: How much time do you want to take with this? If you want to get it over with, hook up a meter and find, for sure, what is going on. SLow, methodical procedures tend to deliver faster, better results than "quick fixes" and guesses. If it IS the siren, it will be easy to prove and once you disconnect the siren, you will know what you current is after that. Unusually high standby current can be an important clue to other issues, and not just a source of a dead battery. At the end of this post will be a PDF on how to find where that current is going and just how much is flowing.

yea car was stored from October until last week. Stored cars are more work to keep going, like it or not. Mine was stored for 18 months when I bought it, it took me almost two years to work thru all the issues.
Yours should not be THAT bad...

I did notice a severed wire below the relay module box, where the RCM IS LOCATED.
it is a very thin wire. Has been like that for years. Rodent damage - how can that not be a sign of rodent damage? YOu've owned the car since new.

there is any moisture anywhere. The car has always been stored inside a garage. OK, but just know that I've changed a CLP/SSM on a car that was "in the garage all the time". IT was ruined, they'd gone on a trip and drove in rain on the way home, put the car up for winter, and had no top/spoiler operation in the spring. I got a used CLP/SSM and partial wiring harness from a junked car and they were good to go!

the bas/esp came on 2 years ago. So it is not related to the top/wing issue, this re-enforces my suspicion of a wet CLP/SSM.

I have done the steering turn from right to left a couple of times. No luck
last fall the top and spoiler issue started and yes I did the manual open and close top up and down 3x no luck

Ok, see? THe BAS crap has nothing to do with your top/spoiler. Based on the above, here is what I would do:

1) Find and fix the excessive standby battery current.
2) Car storage batteries are designed to source up to 250 or more amps for a few seconds, but they HATE sourcing a few amps for hours -so the battery is probably gone. Consider a new battery but ONLY after you FIX the problem.

3) Once you get the above done, let's see what the top and wing do. A real BAS/ESP issue will cause the wing to act up but usually will not stop the top from working. A wet CLP/SSM will screw up both. So, rip the trim from the trunk, get into the CLP/SSM and unplug every connector that connects to it. Look for green/white grungy gunk in the connectors - a sign of water intrusion. If you see ANY, you found your problem. If the connectors look nice, we can move on.

Let's start there. DO NOT start a new thread once you do the above, come back to this thread and we can continue. This may be a long process, but once we get the battery so it will last three weeks or more, and top and wing working, we can move on to the other stuff.

 

Hats off to Pizzaguy…..textbook example of how to look thru the fog .

dismount. regroup. fight on foot.

 

DITTO !
I read the first post before Mark responded and just moved on
Obvious, many neglected issues over the years ~ Life is too short

 

Here is what I recommend. MDKEEHN13, go buy a quality new battery and let's eliminate that right way. Most go with the Diehard AGM Platinum for this car that is known to eat batteries. When you buy that also buy a quick disconnect you can attach to the (-) terminal so it is a quick turn of the top and you can disconnect. Do not leave it connected other than for testing. Buy a cheap multimeter on Amazon for less than $20 and watch a youtube video on how to use it before you touch those prongs to anything or stick them in anything (there are 100's of videos posted). Then we can get started looking for the power drain with that Multimeter giving you a base parasitic (or whatever one wants to call it) drain/draw when the the car is off... If it is higher than say 100 milliamps (which is high as perfect should be around 60 lets say). Then you start pulling fuses throughout and replacing one by one looking for the one or ones that drop the draw considerably. This is going to take a lot of time and this is just the start of fixing this mess. Your other options are to have it towed to an independent shop that specializes in European cars (preferably vintage Mercedes) and open your checkbook or list it for sale cheap and someone else with the time will take this project on. I really hope rodents didn't take up residence and chew on wiring throughout as that would be an absolute mess to figure out and I'd guess you do not have the free time to go down that road.

 

thanks so much for your time and help. I will begin your process.
thanks to EVERYONE HERE.