Originally Posted by
wsmolich1
my hope is that my situation can be rectified with a simple “to reset procedure”, or the like. But before I did that, then set an appointment for the dealer, I wanted to ask the collective brain trust if the answers to my questions (before), point to a simple solution…like a top sync or something.
Pizzaguy posted these questions 6 years ago, and I’m experiencing the EXACT same thing with my 05 Roadster after flawless operation the last 6 months. I say 6 months because when I bought the car we had to replace (rebuild) all 7 pumps? ( probably not the right word), and replace the hydraulic motor. Since then, the top has worked great.
At that same time a brand new battery was purchased.
More provenance… The car has not died, not been jumped, the alarm has not gone off…. No one has poked, prodded or looked at it funny.
On with the saga… the other day I went to put the top down, and after uncoupling the D ring, nothing…zippo…
so, I found pizzaguy’s post and decided to repost his questions with my answers.
1) If you unlatch the top from the windshield frame, do the driver and passenger windows automatically go down?
- Yes
2) Once the windows go down, is the little light on in the top switch?
- Yes. Stays on. No flashing or intermittent lighting
3) If so, and you press the switch, do you hear a beep?
- No
4) If it does NOT beep - do you hear the faint sound of the electric trunk lock activating?
- Yes (verified by the trunk being locked after the attempt. Could only unlock it AFTER performing pressure release procedure.
5) Do you the hear the hydraulic motor start running?
- Not sure ( I am 99% certain I do not). Where should I hear this from? How loud?
In addition, the trunk obviously locks because I can’t open it afterward unless I do the bleed pressure procedure.
(Your answers should be: yes, yes, no, yes, yes. The first 'wrong' answer is the beginning of knowing what is wrong here.)
thoughts, guidance….
Pleasure to meet all of you
William
Well, YOU are the first to actually read my instructions and TRY.
So the top worked after all those parts were replaced, got it. Something went wrong later. A top re-sync might do it. Grab your top tool and (if your top tool has no hex key) grab a hex key and put the top down then up 2--3 times with the engine running. If that resets it, fine.
If not....
If you aren't sure you hear the pump, you don't hear the pump, you CAN NOT miss that sound. You have owned the car for some time,I can't understand how you can say you dont know if you hear the pump running.
The fact that the trunk locks but you get no pump action AND no BEEP is a bit of a quandry.
If the pump refuses to run, it stands to reason that the PowerTop controller is not happy - it is normal for it to BEEP which indicates the controller sees something wrong.
We know the latch retainer switch is OK and the PTCM and BCM are OK because the windows went down and the trunk locked. And we know the trunk is locked by the PTCM because if you do the "pressure release" procedure, the trunk unlocks.
The fact that all of this is working but the pump is not starting is perplexing. What I would try:
Put top down manually.
Hit button, see if top goes up. If it goes up, your divider switch or "top open" switch over the passengers' head is the issue.
If it wont go up, then put the top up and down manually 2-3 times with the engine running, to see if it re-syncs. If not, we can go from there.
If top won't go up, then we can move on. Also, this will leave you with the top DOWN, so you can manually lift the tonneau lid and peek into the cavity and see the fluid level, if it is way low, the pump wont run.
The ONLY way to prove that the divider and top open switches are the cause, is to manually put the top down and try to raise it with the button. (Well, unless you are up to tear the trim from the trunk and measure the voltage at the pin on the connector of the controller that goes to the two switches.