Originally Posted by
1sweetride
To Graphiteghost, no, there wasn't any fluid spilt on the shifter area. Car was stored indoors all winter, and started troubleshooting an intermittent fuel pump issue on RCM this spring when the no start issue appeared.
Not sure if I have caused the "no start" issue by cycling the ground connection on and off the battery during troubleshooting as occasionally I get a good size spark on connection, and this is with the key out of ignition, doors closed. Am thinking that I have caused a surge or something damaging a module.
Pizzaguy gave me a list of items to check, and working through them, the Transmission control module is where I spent a few hours troubleshooting yesterday, continuing today. The shift module is communicating with the instrument cluster so believe that is ok.
Transmission control mod troubleshooting has been a bit more challenging as the manual has some wrong info it it. Plug c206 and c207 where mixed up, and in troubleshooting the sci transmit voltage, Step #6, the procedure is to disconnect the plug C1 from module and check the voltage on the Data link connector.??? Course voltage will be zero. (unless I just messed up but I reviewed this) Jump to new thread I started "Data Link Connector"
To Zip439, Battery was disconnected overnight. Battery voltage at 12.8 volts connected to vehicle. Car did not start. (darn) The shift mod is not communicating with the instrument cluster now so will start looking into why that changed. The output from traction control relay Pin C4 and 5 is 12 volts. Power top looks good, heater fan runs, light work. Will update at end of the day.
Not giving up.
So you have a "no crank" and you are SURE the RCM is OK. Im not sure but you are.
So, the fan does not warp up to high speed when key is "ON", this means that, either the FCM and ECU are not powered up, OR that BOTH are successfully powered up.
Before going ANY farther, I'd verify that the FCM is powering up. There are two little wires on the FCM. Make sure the one in the MIDDLE of the module has battery voltage on it with the key ON.
IT MUST have BATTERY VOLTAGE on it with the key on for my "fan test" to be valid. If it has battery voltage with the key ON, then OK, we can proceed
In such a case, since you already verified the starter thru the pulse module (Zeracer missed that post), I'd ask you to verify that disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it does not give you 'three cranks and nothing'.
If yanking the battery cable off and putting it back on does not give you "three cranks and nothing", then we are back to what is probably an interlock issue somewhere. If you get three cranks and nothing, then we have a SKREEM issue, but I think we've been thru this (sorry, it's a long thread and I may be missing some details like Z did.)
Minor detail: The SLA talks to the TCM which then talks to the Instrument Panel. I agree that the SLA is probably OK, if it is telling the TCM that it is in Park, I would think the TCM would then tell the ECU that it's good to go.
JeffK in Greer, SC had a similar "no crank", let me contact him and see what the issue was.