Originally Posted by Heli-Cal Blue

Thank you, both good points - while I'm not suspecting a parasitic drain from any of the components regarding my amp-draw test results, and seeing what the diode test produced, I'll concede I did not run the parasitic/amp/voltage draw test in 'locked/security on' mode. I merely closed the door and waited about 30-minutes for shut-off processes/ECM-thinking to finish.

I should run the drain test again with that in consideration, and while there, I'll test the security siren batteries draw and pull that fuse as suspect - I hate the damned siren anyway, don't even need it. For the few times it's gone off when reconnecting the battery in the past several years, I couldn't get out the key fob and shut it off fast enough. Embarassing.

I would never park it in a place that thieves would try to get to it anyway. And no offense, I don't think the car-theft market is looking for 19 year-old Chryslers, SRT-6 or not, as a high profile get to flip on their list, whether for absconding it to Mexico or destructing it for parts. Just not enough market interest or value draw; they're too busy stealing Hellcats, Corvettes, Mustangs, BMWs, Mercedes, Toyota Camrys, Honda Civics - and KIAs or Hyundais ( those last two, purely for the joy-ride.)

I'm still hoping someone can comment on that .205 diode test result though. I ran it with another multimeter I have and got .205 again on one way, and it climbed to '1' (OL/Over Limit on that neter) the other way (what was 1.494 on the other meter).

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