Hi SRT6exy,
Thanks for putting those numbers into a table format. As far as I can tell, the lines between the PCM, the TCM and the SKREEM are all good. Since you have the instrument cluster out, plug the PCM, the TCM and the SKREEM back in. Then measure the resistance between pins 9B and 10B on the C1 IC connector. You should read ~60 ohms. If that's good, then you've verified the wires between the IC and the CAN BUS are okay. Just to be complete (though this probably has nothing to do with your issue), you could also remove the CAB connector and measure the resistance between pins 11 and 15 (figuring which pins are 11 and 15 is a little tricky, but just look at the pattern of blanks). But, it's starting to look like the SLA or the wires from the SLA might be your issue. The black square is telling you the PCM doesn't know what gear the transmission is in - so either the SLA is broken, or the data isn't getting to the PCM from the SLA. One thing to note is that there's another communication path from the SLA to the diagnostic connector, it's the SCI bus. This threw me when I was diagnosing my issue in that I could read the gear shift position using the DRB III, but the PCM didn't know what position it was in. Getting to the SLA isn't that bad - the hardest parts are removing the rubber cover off the brake lever (I ended up heating it with a heat gun. I tried soapy water, but it wasn't moving), and getting the coin tray portion out. I found, for me the easiest way was to cut the plastic rail behind the shift lever (towards the rear of the car) so that I could spread the plastic apart and get more room to maneuver the tray out. There are youtube videos showing the removal, but they didn't work so well for me. One other caution is if you have an aftermarket radio, the cage they use to mount it will hold the middle console trim in place, so remove the radio tray first (I watch a bunch of youtube videos that show how easily the middle console trim was removed, but mine wouldn't come out, so I forced it and ended up separating the black plastic from the silver trim plastic. Fortunately, PVC glue worked to put it back together.
I'm glad I could help, and that someone else could use the work I did to save themselves some time and aggravation.
Below is the CAN C BUS diagram. Ignore the yellow squares and the red circle - that was pointing to my issue.
-Jerry