Hi SRT6exy,
Sorry, I forgot last night to look in the manual. I'll post what I fine late tonight.
-Jerry

 

Hi SRT6exy,
I checked the service manual for the P2313 code, and there isn't one. Not sure what that means. It doesn't seem that a coil problem would lead to your issues.
-Jerry

 

I ordered a shifter yesterday, should be here in a week or so. I plan on doing some cleaning under the console until then as it was pretty dirty. I will post an update once I get the new shifter installed.

 

Okay, lets keep our fingers crossed, and that it solves your issue.
-Jerry

 

UPDATE:
I got the shifter (SLA) yesterday, I got it installed today. I still had no engine codes or anything so I cleared the one DTC in the TCM I had left since the last time I cleared the DTCs before installing the new shifter.
Now, with everything plugged in except the radio and window button connectors, the dash recognizes the car is in gear. As soon as I turn the key to on it says P and with my foot on the brake I can shift gears. HOWEVER... when I go to start the car it does NOT attempt to crank. The first time I turn it to start it doesnt attempt to start and then after that, it will not let me turn the key beyond on - to start again unless I remove the key and try again.
Just to confirm, starting attempts were made while the car was in Park, and my foot was indeed on the brake. I moved the wheel back and forth and the steering wheel wasnt locked, I can shift in and out of park and the dash recognizes the gear its in.

So...any ideas whats happening now? Thanks in advance!!

 

Hi SRT6exy,
Okay, now you're getting somewhere - the ecu now knows what gear you're in and it's getting power. Your brake switch is working since the SLA allows you to shift it. Having to remove the key after one start attempt is normal - at least that's how it works on both the crossfires I have. The RCM still could be your issue. Again, check the battery voltage and the fuses. Does the fuel pump go when you turn the key to on? Sometimes the pulse module goes bad (it has some relays in it like the RCM) or the grounds get loose. Double check if all of your connectors, especially on the RCM and ECU are seated correctly. Check the DTC codes again to see if anything new has popped up. I doubt it's your starter, but you can check by jumping the pulse module. (There's also the possibility that it's your ECU - if you search for a forum member named 1sweetride, his ECU went out and had similar symptoms, but lets hope not.)
-Jerry

 

The RCM was the first thing I had fixed, I sent it to DJ in Arizona from here in the forumn. He tests them in his cars after repair before sending them back out so the RCM *should* be good. I will check connections and battery tonight and listen for the fuel pump as well.

 

Well, I checked all the wires/connections, checked fuses in the fuse box, hooked up the ignition cylinder trim ring not sure if that does anything but it did have a wire on it. Checked the battery it seemed fine but I plugged in a charger on jump just for good measure. Went to start it and it fired right up, no codes no DTCs at least that this cheapo scanner can see. Unfortunately, the car does *not* move. I can shift it into reverse or drive just fine, no issues there, however the car still acts like its in neutral. After a couple attempts it did start dropping the idle slightly as if it engaged a gear but still wouldnt move and then in gear the idle would sometimes get too low and stutter slightly. While the car is in park at idle, if I look under the car I can hear a faint click sound about every second. After rechecking for any codes I shut it off. I then tried to check the transmission fluid level again and for some reason its still reading as if the level is way high, I am not sure if somehow the dipstick is going too far in or what, but it is the dipstick you order from NeedsWings? Any ideas?

 

I think the ignition trim ring you mention is the antenna for the SKREEM key transponder reader, so if you didn't have that plugged in, the car would definitely not start, and probably not crank. So now it sounds like it something in your transmission. I would suggest checking the plug that goes into the transmission - see if it's leaking, loose, or damaged. Fortunately, I haven't had any transmission problems, so I'm not really versed in transmission problems. Maybe search the forum for transmission problems. Good Luck.
-Jerry

 

Sounds like you are back to the beginning of this saga.

Red_2005_convertible is !00% correct: "the ignition trim ring you mention is the antenna for the SKREEM key transponder reader, so if you didn't have that plugged in, the car would definitely not start"

You check transmission fluid level with the car running in park and warmed up. So look at your temperature gauge and when it is about half way, which is normal operating temperature, then check the fluid level car running in park. Should be midway on the dipstick. If you just stick the dipstick in the tube cold the fluid will be high up out of range.

First post P0715. That is in the service manual; at this point probably the conductor plate speed sensor (That should throw a code) assuming your new SLA is communicating properly to the transmission.

The "car drops idle" as it warms up. At first start the car is cold and should idle about 1200 RPM (it is winter) after a minute or so it will drop down a little and then again when the thermostat opens it will drop down again to normal idle speed.

With the car not moving at all it may be that you still have a wire disconnected somewhere. If you can probe the wires with everything connected check voltages at the TCU on the wires going and coming from the transmission. If you have power there then it points to the conductor plate being the problem.