Hi SRT6exy,
Thanks for putting those numbers into a table format. As far as I can tell, the lines between the PCM, the TCM and the SKREEM are all good. Since you have the instrument cluster out, plug the PCM, the TCM and the SKREEM back in. Then measure the resistance between pins 9B and 10B on the C1 IC connector. You should read ~60 ohms. If that's good, then you've verified the wires between the IC and the CAN BUS are okay. Just to be complete (though this probably has nothing to do with your issue), you could also remove the CAB connector and measure the resistance between pins 11 and 15 (figuring which pins are 11 and 15 is a little tricky, but just look at the pattern of blanks). But, it's starting to look like the SLA or the wires from the SLA might be your issue. The black square is telling you the PCM doesn't know what gear the transmission is in - so either the SLA is broken, or the data isn't getting to the PCM from the SLA. One thing to note is that there's another communication path from the SLA to the diagnostic connector, it's the SCI bus. This threw me when I was diagnosing my issue in that I could read the gear shift position using the DRB III, but the PCM didn't know what position it was in. Getting to the SLA isn't that bad - the hardest parts are removing the rubber cover off the brake lever (I ended up heating it with a heat gun. I tried soapy water, but it wasn't moving), and getting the coin tray portion out. I found, for me the easiest way was to cut the plastic rail behind the shift lever (towards the rear of the car) so that I could spread the plastic apart and get more room to maneuver the tray out. There are youtube videos showing the removal, but they didn't work so well for me. One other caution is if you have an aftermarket radio, the cage they use to mount it will hold the middle console trim in place, so remove the radio tray first (I watch a bunch of youtube videos that show how easily the middle console trim was removed, but mine wouldn't come out, so I forced it and ended up separating the black plastic from the silver trim plastic. Fortunately, PVC glue worked to put it back together.
I'm glad I could help, and that someone else could use the work I did to save themselves some time and aggravation.
Below is the CAN C BUS diagram. Ignore the yellow squares and the red circle - that was pointing to my issue.
-Jerry

 

Thanks @red_2005_convertible ! After a busy weekend I plan on checking these as soon as I get time, will update when I do!

 

Well, with the IC unplugged but everything else Plugged IN I measured 9B-10B and got 61.2 ohms. I was going to check the CAB but couldnt even figure out how to unhook the connector on it, it is the one in the engine bay correct? Or am I mistaken?

 

Hi SRT6exy,
Okay, that shows the wires between the IC to the PCM and the SKREEM are solid, and the CAN BUS terminations in the PCM and SKREEM are okay. Yes, the CAB connector is located in the engine compartment on the drivers side, forward (towards the front of the car) of the fuse box. There are a bunch of metal hydraulic lines around it. If I remember correctly, the connector has a holding clip/retainer on top that you pull up on to release the connector. The clip doesn't come off, it stays with the connector, so don't pull too hard. It should lift up and stop at some point, then the connector can come off. I don't think the CAB is your problem, but like I said, you can verify that part of the CAN BUS wiring. Since you've been reseating the connectors, have you tried plugging the IC back in, connecting the battery back, and turning the ignition to the ON position or starting the car to see if the black rectangle is still there? It's a long shot, but maybe one of the connectors was loose or had an oxidized contact and now everything works. Next is the SLA - I have a post showing the insides of the SLA if you're curious. Getting the connector out of the SLA is a bit of a challenge without removing the SLA, but it can be done. The connector has a plastic triangular hook on it - I used a thin metal shim to unhook it from the connector housing in the SLA. (I'm probably not strong enough anymore just to brute force the connector out with just my hand.)
-Jerry

 

Hi SRT6exy,
Just a side note, you mentioned you got a new RCM and plugged it in so this probably isn't your problem, but it's easy to check. Sometimes the black rectangle in the IC comes from a bad traction control relay in the RCM not providing power to the TCM - if the tcm is not powered, the pcm again doesn't know what gear you're in and won't start. Maybe a quick check before you tackle the SLA is to see if you're getting 12V to the TCM at the TCM connector ( with battery connected, everything plugged in except the tcm, ignition to the on position).
-Jerry

 

Well I didnt see this message, and after a few hours messing with the ash tray assembly I got it out. I was able to Pull the SLA plug and I measured 60.4 ohms with everything else plugged in. I then read your message and tried measuring the voltage at the TCM Key in ON position and I get .700 Volts with the probes between H & L. I also tried Measuring at the PCM and got .700 Volts between 1 & 11.

Am I supposed to be measuring the voltage in the Can Bus network or somewhere else?

 

Hi SRT6exy,
Okay, you've proven that the wiring of CAN BUS from the SLA is okay. You should be reading roughly battery voltage (~12V), but not on the CAN BUS pins (I think the 0.7V across the CAN BUS is okay). I don't know off the top of my head which SLA or TCM pins are power and ground, but usually ground wires are brown, and power are red. If you find power at both the TCM and SLA, then my guess is that it's probably the SLA. Some people have had success spraying contact cleaner on the SLA circuit board, but that doesn't always work. BUT before you replace the SLA, see if plugging everything back in (you don't need to plug the center console back in), is the black rectangle still there? Will the car start? Have you cleared the DTC error codes and re-read them to see if they have changed. Also, check around the TCM for any transmission fluid - use a white Kleenex and wipe around the harness and general area. Are there water stains around the TCM area? (We're starting to get off into the less likely causes, but they do happen.)
-Jerry

 

The car never had an issue starting even after my problems started, I didnt try yesterday though. Ill see if it still starts tonight. I believe I tried plugging everything in and still had the black square but cannot remember if I had the TCM plugged in or not. I know I tried plugging everything back in before getting to the SLA and I definitely still had the square then, I will retry again tonight now that Ive had the SLA unplugged and post an update as soon as possible!

 

duplicate

 

Lets summarize:
Your symptoms:
1) your car won't shift into drive or reverse
2) you have a black rectangle in your IC, but car can start
3) the error codes you read are P0600, P0715 and P0720

Things done:
1) replaced RCM - issue persists
2) checked all of the CAN BUS wires and terminations - they are good - so probably not an issue with the CAN BUS
3) will check if you're getting 12V to the TCM and SLA

Now I'm just spit balling, not sure how this relates to the CAN BUS codes
a) have you checked the mechanical linkage between the SLA and the transmission - is connected (I guess if the car can roll after you take it out of park, but can't roll if it is in park says the linkage is connected)
b) have you checked transmission fluid level - have you seen any transmission fluid leaking under the car or around the transmission. Note, the transmission cooler is inside the radiator, so you could have a leak into/out of the radiator - is your coolant looking pink with froth?
c) When I looked up the P0715 and P0720 codes just now, they seem to be related to the transmission speed sensor, so maybe the transmission harness or connector coming out of the transmission is damaged - have you inspected it? (There are a lot of posts on how to replace it, although I've never done it myself.)
Not sure why b and c above would lead to a black rectangle IC...

Also, I'm not sure how to check if the SLA is good or not except by using the DRB III scan/emulator tool. When I had my issue, I could interrogate the SLA and TCM to see what gear they thought they were in - that was all good. Again, just spit balling, but if the SLA and the TCM think the transmission is in different gears, the PCM probably won't engage the transmission.

 

Well I tried to start it tonight and it no longer eveb attempts to crank. I dont have a scanner I can use to check but I still dont have a CEL after initially clearing them but that could also be because the car hasnt ran, I know most vehicles need to be running for a bit before the computer will send a code. If I use a pen or screwdriver into the keyway by the shifter I can move the shifter out of park but reverse neutral and drive all act like neutral

 

Hi SRT6exy,
Sorry, I should've check the manual first instead of googling what the dtc were. I checked the service manual on DTCs P0715 and P0720. Have you downloaded the service manual from this site? It's very helpful. Here's what the manual says P0715 and P0720 (see:below). One thing to note is that for either one, it's recommended to check the transmission fluid level.

(P0715) N3 INPUT SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT (CONTINUED) page 21-106
When Monitored and Set Condition
² When Monitored: Engine speed greater than 450 RPM, no engine speed DTCs, no TCM undervoltage system
operation, no output speed sensor DTCs (signal from the ABS system), all wheel speeds above 250 RPM
(signal from the ABS system), no rear wheel speed DTCs (signal from the ABS system), and no wheel slip
detected (signal from the ABS system), no shifting operation, detected gear is 3rd or 4th and the detected gear
is the actual vehicle gear.
² Set Condition: If the N3 input speed sensor signal is equal to 0 RPM, short signal circuit to ground, shorted to
battery, an open input speed sensor, a faulty input speed sensor, or an open sensor supply circuit.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
SENSOR SUPPLY VOLTAGE CIRCUIT OPEN
N3 INPUT SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
N3 INPUT SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
N3 SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORT TO ANOTHER CIRCUIT
SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT SHORT TO ANOTHER CIRCUIT
N3 INPUT SPEED SENSOR
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE
Diagnostic Test
1. PRE-DIAGNOSTIC CHECK OUT
Note: Low fluid level can be the cause of many transmission
problems. If the fluid level is low, locate and repair the leak then
check and adjust the fluid level in accordance with the Service
Information.
Note: Always perform diagnostics with a fully charged battery to
avoid false symptoms.
With the DRB IIIT, read Engine DTCs. Check and repair all engine
DTCs prior to performing transmission symptom diagnostics.
With the DRB IIIT, read and record all Transmission DTCs.
Note: Check connectors - Clean/repair as necessary. Poor pin to
terminal connections can set DTCs.
Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and
connectors. Repair as necessary.
Most DTCs set on start up but some must be set by driving the vehicle such that all diagnostic monitors have run.
Note: Check for any Technical Service Bulletins that may apply.
Perform this procedure prior to Symptom diagnosis.
Continue
Go To 2


(P0720) CAN BUS CIRCUIT (CONTINUED)
When Monitored and Set Condition
² When Monitored: Always monitored with system active at each ignition cycle.
² Set Condition: Open circuit in the CAN C BUS (+) circuit or CAN C BUS (-) circuit, short to ground of CAN C
BUS (+) circuit or CAN C BUS (-) circuit, short to voltage of CAN C BUS (+) circuit or CAN C BUS (-) circuit,
CAN C BUS (+) circuit shorted to CAN C BUS (-) circuit, or a TCM failure. Note: All CAN message missing
DTCs will also be present, which indicates a complete BUS failure.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
CAN C BUS(+) SHORT TO CAN C BUS (-)
CAN C BUS (+) AND/OR CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN
CAN C BUS (+) AND/OR CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
CAN C BUS (+) AND/OR CAN C BUS (-) CIRCUIT SHORT TO ANOTHER CIRCUIT
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKE (need to check this connection)
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (you already checked this connection)
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (you already checked this connection)
Diagnostic Test
1. PRE-DIAGNOSTIC CHECK OUT
Note: Low fluid level can be the cause of many transmission
problems. If the fluid level is low, locate and repair the leak then
check and adjust the fluid level in accordance with the Service
Information.
Note: Always perform diagnostics with a fully charged battery to
avoid false symptoms.
With the DRB IIIT, read Engine DTCs. Check and repair all engine
DTCs prior to performing transmission symptom diagnostics.
With the DRB IIIT, read and record all Transmission DTCs.
Note: Check connectors - Clean/repair as necessary. Poor pin to
terminal connections can set DTCs.
Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and
connectors. Repair as necessary.
Most DTCs set on start up but some must be set by driving the vehicle such that all diagnostic monitors have run.
Note: Check for any Technical Service Bulletins that may apply.
Perform this procedure prior to Symptom diagnosis.
Continue
Go To 2

 

I have tried to download the manual but it wont let me, it makes me use an app to view it which I have used some but its difficult to navigate. I also do not have a high tech scanner I can use. I can borrow a cheapo one that shows basic engine codes like oreilly s will loan but thats it, and currently my CEL has not yet reappeared since I cleared them initially before towing the car home.

 

That's strange, are you using a Mac - I'm using windows 10, and downloaded the free adobe arcobat reader utility (or at least I don't remember ever paying for it), although I think firefox will also read pdfs. Maybe you can borrow the Oreilly scanner again just to make sure what codes are still there (maybe they've changed). Have you been able to check the CAB CAN BUS connections, or the voltages to the SLA or TMU? Checking your transmission fluid level isn't easy (I've never done it) but there are a lot of posts describing it. Sadly without a expensive scanner, the method is first eliminate the simple things (connections, shorts and voltages) then its onto replacing things one at a time. I have an innova scanner that doesn't really do a lot for the crossfire, but I did buy the micropod II DRB III emulator and that works pretty well, but It was a hassle to get working - soldering the missing ground connection was a challenge, but I somehow managed it. I think working on the crossfire requires a lot of patience - I look at like a challenge, and once I figure out what's gone wrong, it's very satisfying to fix it.

 

I apologize, last week was very busy for me, I plan on trying to check some more readings tonight or tomorrow night. I was reading the manual on my iphone but I may try and see if I can get my windows laptop to download it or not.

 

Hey, no problem, we all work on these cars at our own pace. Unfortunately, they give us lots of opportunities . I also verified that Edge can read the manual, and the hyperlinks work as well. My holiday weekend was spent figuring out why the spoiler button on the console wasn't working - it turned out to be my mistake when I put the center console back together, I swapped connection between the tow lock and the spoiler switches - the connectors are same, just different color coded wires, so I didn't notice at the time. Usually, they make it impossible to swap connectors by making them all unique, but not in this case.
-Jerry

 

Well I got a little bit of time tonight. I checked the transmission fluid and it totally covers the check portion of the dipstick, not sure if thats something that is usually checked running or at a warmer temp? Either way, I dont think its low at least. I also got measurements for all the CAN BUS connections between the SLA table for that is attached no issues there. I started checking voltages with some of the modules unplugged and the fans started running which startled me so I stopped, not sure if theres a specific way to go about checking voltages at each module or not. I then plugged everything in and went to check OBDII codes and had no stored codes but several DTCs for low voltage at the TCM so I checked the battery and it was down to 11.4 volts so I have it on a charger and will try again later. However, while I was checking DTCs I tried to connect to the SLA and it said there was no communication with the SLA.

So, thats all the info I have for right now.

 

Well, after charging the battery on trickle for a couple days I went back to check DTC codes again. I had to clear the ones still present from when the battery was low. After that I had on DTC present in the TCM this was P2313 "Ignition Coil 5 Circuit High". I then tried to connect to the SLA module as the scanner showed it as an option however it said "Unable to establish communication. Verify the connection at the DLC and that ignition is ON....." I am not sure if this is due to the scanner in general not able to communicate with our cars or if there is a problem with the SLA. It was able to communicate with the TCM though so I'm not sure. Scanner used was an INNOVA 5410. Based on my original research and similarities to other threads in addition to all of my CAN BUS connections seeming to be ok I am leaning towards a fault in the SLA itself. Is there anything else I can test with the SLA other than CAN BUS communication at the connector?

 

Hi SRT6exy,
The DTC connector doesn't talk to any of the modules via the CAN Bus - the scanner communicates to the other modules via the SCI network (Serial communication something, don't recall exactly), but if that comm network isn't working, I don't think the ECU does anything except throw a error code. I'll try to check the manual tonight, and also the P2313 code from the TMU (I think the different modules reuse the error code numbers...). You might try blowing the SLA module out or spraying contact cleaner in it, but the chances of that working are slim.
-Jerry

 

It definitely looks dirty underneath the shifter, and I tried blowing it our with air and contact cleaner with no luck. I found a nice looking SLA on ebay with the wires snipped and connector still attached as well as the cable snipped and still attached so I know those weren't aggressively removed from the SLA and possibly damaging the connection points. It also states it was tested and working. So I may go ahead and buy it and pray thats my issue! I will keep an eye out for your response still though!