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Old Jan 2, 2025 | 04:44 PM
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Esinclair
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 151
Likes: 77
From: TX
Default Re: What did you do to your Crossfire today?

Originally Posted by Jaymon
Well, it's Christmas... time for family gatherings, face-stuffing around the table, seasonal greetings and utter boredom! So I decided to go for yet another silly little adventure: resetting the car to factory values. I recently upgraded the Throttle Body and the air intakes (provisional, saving up for Needswings DCAI and oil catch can). After all this, Eurocharged tune. Been fiddling with the car a great deal, so I decided to give the car a fresh electronic start.

The usual procedure is to disconnect battery terminals (negative first, then positive, I believe), place them so they will not cause a short circuit, join them with a jump starter cable, turn the key to on position and engage the lights so all the electronic modules will run out of energy 100%. To prevent any current peaks, that might damage our vehicle's sensitive systems, I came across a video by Scotty Kilmer video by Scotty Kilmer -This American YouTuber mechanic that speaks the language of the lay people like myself- where he advises adding a resistor between the positive and negative terminals. I like the guy (loud, eccentric, straightforward, knowledgeable) so to the local electronics shop I went and...
I purchased a 1200 ohm/10 Watt resistor, a pair of small jumper clips. I soldered the clips to each end and crimped positive and negative cables for about 15-20 mins.
I purchased a 1200 ohm/10 Watt resistor, and a pair of small jumper clips. I soldered the clips to each end and crimped positive and negative cables for about 15–20 min.

DEEP RESET STEPS:
  1. Disconnect negative terminal
  2. Disconnect positive terminal
  3. Pinch both plugs with the resistor
  4. Key in ON position
  5. Turn on the lights
  6. Let it sit for 20 min.
  7. Turn lights off
  8. Reconnect positive terminal
  9. Reconnect negative terminal
  10. Start the car and bear with the ECU relearning mode (hiccups, high idle, etc.)
When reconnecting the negative, I heard loads of systems starting up, clicks and hums all around. Started the car, drove it and the Xfire needed a few miles to relearn the air-gas mixture, had to reset BAS/ESP, suffered a high idle for some time as well... reset clock, sound system, but now she runs as good as gold. No noticeable issues, good low and stable idle.

I then installed a gadget that is controversial, to say the least. Read about it on the internet and on this forum, with mixed opinions and even some intense debate about its effectiveness: HOT INAZMA HYPERVOLTAGE SYSTEM. I swear I do not wish to revamp that discussion in any way, shape or form, as I do not have any solid arguments other than those I got from many other internet car forum users (not necessarily Crossfire users). Had a gut feeling, got hold of it for peanuts and there we go...
The
The "miraculous" silver box that claims to stabilize DC current. It looks good in the engine ;-)

One thing users generally agreed on about this gadget is that it seems to avoid light flickering, improves the sound system and contributes to an overall betterment of the systems that depend on electronics, including injectors (thus improving fuel mileage). To tell you the truth, I don't really know (or care too much), but I got it dirt cheap and it won't do any harm. Haven't really "felt" it yet.

I'll let you know if anything spectacular happens.
The battery area looks like a nuke about to explode now!
The battery area looks like a nuke about to explode now!

Well, I am bored again, so I'll get back to Christmas sweets.

Bon appetit!
Bon appetit!

Interesting that Scotty actually disconnected the positive cable first. Real NO-NO! You put yourself and your car in danger. If your wrench touches basically anything besides the positive terminal, your wrench could short the battery to ground and could get red hot if it were to "spot weld" itself to the chassis. ALWAYS remove the negative first no matter what anyone says.

Now, regarding the resistor value. Scott says to use a 1 ohm resistor and for reasons you didn't explain, you used a 1200 ohm resistor. Personally, I like the idea of using more than 1 ohm. I think 1200 ohm is probably about right so while it might take a couple extra seconds for the capacitors to drain to zero volts, I like the softer approach of using the 1200 ohm resistor. For all practical purposes, 1 ohm is not much different than simply shorting the positive and negative leads (off the battery of course)
 
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