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The last 4 years has seen nothing but prefection from my 2004 Automatic. no hard starts, misfires, hicccups, mystery no starts. Nothing.
Friday, I filled the tank and went for a 20 mile drive where I shut the car off while my wife shopped. 15 minutes later I started it back up, only to have it sputter and misfire for maybe 30 seconds………..Slightly tapping the gas to urge it on when it seemed it might stall out.
then, on its own, it resumed its perfect behavior and came home with no problems (where it was cold and snowy so I didn't pop the hood). I have since driven it maybe twice more around town with no problems
my guess ……… a fuel problem.
anyone venture something else ?
Today a new wrinkle………… After driving the car four or five times since the initial hiccup, I went out today and tried to start the car only to have it not start again,……
this time was a bit different because it did not sputter, cough and then start up on its own. Today the starter had a strong start after I let go of the key which would continue for maybe 5 seconds and then stop on its own. I restarted 5 times and the strong start lasted about the same time and then shut off.
Today a new wrinkle………… After driving the car four or five times since the initial hiccup, I went out today and tried to start the car only to have it not start again,……
this time was a bit different because it did not sputter, cough and then start up on its own. Today the starter had a strong start after I let go of the key which would continue for maybe 5 seconds and then stop on its own. I restarted 5 times and the strong start lasted about the same time and then shut off.
I did not hear the fuel pump humming.
any suggestions ?
Check out this video on how to check your RCM. It's by Tighed1
I changed my oil yesterday. I've never used a vacuum pump before. I got almost 8.5 liters of oil out!
I wish I would have found this 30 years ago!
The pump I used is a FIRSTINFO A1108US. I got it from amazon.
Last edited by M60A3Driver; Dec 20, 2024 at 07:49 PM.
Reason: add information
Well, it's Christmas... time for family gatherings, face-stuffing around the table, seasonal greetings and utter boredom! So I decided to go for yet another silly little adventure: resetting the car to factory values. I recently upgraded the Throttle Body and the air intakes (provisional, saving up for Needswings DCAI and oil catch can). After all this, Eurocharged tune. Been fiddling with the car a great deal, so I decided to give the car a fresh electronic start.
The usual procedure is to disconnect battery terminals (negative first, then positive, I believe), place them so they will not cause a short circuit, join them with a jump starter cable, turn the key to on position and engage the lights so all the electronic modules will run out of energy 100%. To prevent any current peaks, that might damage our vehicle's sensitive systems, I came across a video by Scotty Kilmer
-This American YouTuber mechanic that speaks the language of the lay people like myself- where he advises adding a resistor between the positive and negative terminals. I like the guy (loud, eccentric, straightforward, knowledgeable) so to the local electronics shop I went and... I purchased a 1200 ohm/10 Watt resistor, and a pair of small jumper clips. I soldered the clips to each end and crimped positive and negative cables for about 15–20 min.
DEEP RESET STEPS:
Disconnect negative terminal
Disconnect positive terminal
Pinch both plugs with the resistor
Key in ON position
Turn on the lights
Let it sit for 20 min.
Turn lights off
Reconnect positive terminal
Reconnect negative terminal
Start the car and bear with the ECU relearning mode (hiccups, high idle, etc.)
When reconnecting the negative, I heard loads of systems starting up, clicks and hums all around. Started the car, drove it and the Xfire needed a few miles to relearn the air-gas mixture, had to reset BAS/ESP, suffered a high idle for some time as well... reset clock, sound system, but now she runs as good as gold. No noticeable issues, good low and stable idle.
I then installed a gadget that is controversial, to say the least. Read about it on the internet and on this forum, with mixed opinions and even some intense debate about its effectiveness: HOT INAZMA HYPERVOLTAGE SYSTEM. I swear I do not wish to revamp that discussion in any way, shape or form, as I do not have any solid arguments other than those I got from many other internet car forum users (not necessarily Crossfire users). Had a gut feeling, got hold of it for peanuts and there we go... The "miraculous" silver box that claims to stabilize DC current. It looks good in the engine ;-)
One thing users generally agreed on about this gadget is that it seems to avoid light flickering, improves the sound system and contributes to an overall betterment of the systems that depend on electronics, including injectors (thus improving fuel mileage). To tell you the truth, I don't really know (or care too much), but I got it dirt cheap and it won't do any harm. Haven't really "felt" it yet.
I'll let you know if anything spectacular happens. The battery area looks like a nuke about to explode now!
Well, I am bored again, so I'll get back to Christmas sweets. Bon appetit!
Well, it's Christmas... time for family gatherings, face-stuffing around the table, seasonal greetings and utter boredom! So I decided to go for yet another silly little adventure: resetting the car to factory values. I recently upgraded the Throttle Body and the air intakes (provisional, saving up for Needswings DCAI and oil catch can). After all this, Eurocharged tune. Been fiddling with the car a great deal, so I decided to give the car a fresh electronic start.
The usual procedure is to disconnect battery terminals (negative first, then positive, I believe), place them so they will not cause a short circuit, join them with a jump starter cable, turn the key to on position and engage the lights so all the electronic modules will run out of energy 100%. To prevent any current peaks, that might damage our vehicle's sensitive systems, I came across a video by Scotty Kilmer video by Scotty Kilmer -This American YouTuber mechanic that speaks the language of the lay people like myself- where he advises adding a resistor between the positive and negative terminals. I like the guy (loud, eccentric, straightforward, knowledgeable) so to the local electronics shop I went and...
I purchased a 1200 ohm/10 Watt resistor, and a pair of small jumper clips. I soldered the clips to each end and crimped positive and negative cables for about 15–20 min.
DEEP RESET STEPS:
Disconnect negative terminal
Disconnect positive terminal
Pinch both plugs with the resistor
Key in ON position
Turn on the lights
Let it sit for 20 min.
Reconnect positive terminal
Reconnect negative terminal
Turn off lights
Start the car and bear with the ECU relearning mode (hiccups, high idle, etc.)
When reconnecting the negative, I heard loads of systems starting up, clicks and hums all around. Started the car, drove it and the Xfire needed a few miles to relearn the air-gas mixture, had to reset BAS/ESP, suffered a high idle for some time as well... reset clock, sound system, but now she runs as good as gold. No noticeable issues, good low and stable idle.
I then installed a gadget that is controversial, to say the least. Read about it on the internet and on this forum, with mixed opinions and even some intense debate about its effectiveness: HOT INAZMA HYPERVOLTAGE SYSTEM. I swear I do not wish to revamp that discussion in any way, shape or form, as I do not have any solid arguments other than those I got from many other internet car forum users (not necessarily Crossfire users). Had a gut feeling, got hold of it for peanuts and there we go...
The "miraculous" silver box that claims to stabilize DC current. It looks good in the engine ;-)
One thing users agreed on about this gadget is that it seems to avoid light flickering, improves the sound system and contributes to an overall betterment of the systems that depend on electronics, including injectors (thus improving fuel mileage). To tell you the truth, I don't really know (or care too much), but I got it dirt cheap and it won't do any harm. Haven't really "felt" it yet.
I'll let you know if anything spectacular happens.
The battery area looks like a nuke about to explode now!
Well, I am bored again, so I'll get back to Christmas sweets.
Hooked up the BlueDriver OBD code reader to the 2007 Coupe to see if any stored codes existed. Sad to say I found nothing! What a Bummer! The 2007 Coupe continues to perform flawlessly!
I keep the BlueDriver OBD code reader in the console of the 2007 Coupe. The software that interfaces via Bluetooth is loaded on my cell phone and Samsung tablet. Enables me to search for codes if and/or when an issue occurs while I'm 'out & about' in the Crossfire Coupe.
Last edited by dedwards0323; Dec 31, 2024 at 08:24 PM.
Hooked up the BlueDriver OBD code reader to the 2007 Coupe to see if any stored codes existing.
I keep the BlueDriver OBD code reader in the console of the 2007 Coupe.
The software that interfaces via Bluetooth is loaded on my cell phone and Samsung tablet.
Enables me to search for codes if and/or when an issues occurs while I'm 'out & about' in the Crossfire Coupe.
I have the"Ultraguage"on all the time - It is plugged into the OBD2 port and monitors over 70 things that might create a code
In the meantime it can show me these basic gauges (I have chosen) but can show many other gauges to depending how you set the home screen
It will show me a code if one is detected and allows me to identify the code and clear the code as well.
I have had this installed for 12 years and it works perfectly
I've looked at a few different versions like the one you use. Just can't bring myself to mounting something on the dash for monitoring performance. Looks promising though.
I've looked at a few different versions like the one you use.
Just can't bring myself to mounting something on the dash for monitoring performance.
Looks promising though.
Suction cup to the window also if you prefer another option
Well, it's Christmas... time for family gatherings, face-stuffing around the table, seasonal greetings and utter boredom! So I decided to go for yet another silly little adventure: resetting the car to factory values. I recently upgraded the Throttle Body and the air intakes (provisional, saving up for Needswings DCAI and oil catch can). After all this, Eurocharged tune. Been fiddling with the car a great deal, so I decided to give the car a fresh electronic start.
The usual procedure is to disconnect battery terminals (negative first, then positive, I believe), place them so they will not cause a short circuit, join them with a jump starter cable, turn the key to on position and engage the lights so all the electronic modules will run out of energy 100%. To prevent any current peaks, that might damage our vehicle's sensitive systems, I came across a video by Scotty Kilmer video by Scotty Kilmer -This American YouTuber mechanic that speaks the language of the lay people like myself- where he advises adding a resistor between the positive and negative terminals. I like the guy (loud, eccentric, straightforward, knowledgeable) so to the local electronics shop I went and... I purchased a 1200 ohm/10 Watt resistor, and a pair of small jumper clips. I soldered the clips to each end and crimped positive and negative cables for about 15–20 min.
DEEP RESET STEPS:
Disconnect negative terminal
Disconnect positive terminal
Pinch both plugs with the resistor
Key in ON position
Turn on the lights
Let it sit for 20 min.
Turn lights off
Reconnect positive terminal
Reconnect negative terminal
Start the car and bear with the ECU relearning mode (hiccups, high idle, etc.)
When reconnecting the negative, I heard loads of systems starting up, clicks and hums all around. Started the car, drove it and the Xfire needed a few miles to relearn the air-gas mixture, had to reset BAS/ESP, suffered a high idle for some time as well... reset clock, sound system, but now she runs as good as gold. No noticeable issues, good low and stable idle.
I then installed a gadget that is controversial, to say the least. Read about it on the internet and on this forum, with mixed opinions and even some intense debate about its effectiveness: HOT INAZMA HYPERVOLTAGE SYSTEM. I swear I do not wish to revamp that discussion in any way, shape or form, as I do not have any solid arguments other than those I got from many other internet car forum users (not necessarily Crossfire users). Had a gut feeling, got hold of it for peanuts and there we go... The "miraculous" silver box that claims to stabilize DC current. It looks good in the engine ;-)
One thing users generally agreed on about this gadget is that it seems to avoid light flickering, improves the sound system and contributes to an overall betterment of the systems that depend on electronics, including injectors (thus improving fuel mileage). To tell you the truth, I don't really know (or care too much), but I got it dirt cheap and it won't do any harm. Haven't really "felt" it yet.
I'll let you know if anything spectacular happens. The battery area looks like a nuke about to explode now!
Well, I am bored again, so I'll get back to Christmas sweets. Bon appetit!
Interesting that Scotty actually disconnected the positive cable first. Real NO-NO! You put yourself and your car in danger. If your wrench touches basically anything besides the positive terminal, your wrench could short the battery to ground and could get red hot if it were to "spot weld" itself to the chassis. ALWAYS remove the negative first no matter what anyone says.
Now, regarding the resistor value. Scott says to use a 1 ohm resistor and for reasons you didn't explain, you used a 1200 ohm resistor. Personally, I like the idea of using more than 1 ohm. I think 1200 ohm is probably about right so while it might take a couple extra seconds for the capacitors to drain to zero volts, I like the softer approach of using the 1200 ohm resistor. For all practical purposes, 1 ohm is not much different than simply shorting the positive and negative leads (off the battery of course)
Interesting that Scotty actually disconnected the positive cable first. Real NO-NO! You put yourself and your car in danger. If your wrench touches basically anything besides the positive terminal, your wrench could short the battery to ground and could get red hot if it were to "spot weld" itself to the chassis. ALWAYS remove the negative first no matter what anyone says.
Now, regarding the resistor value. Scott says to use a 1 ohm resistor and for reasons you didn't explain, you used a 1200 ohm resistor. Personally, I like the idea of using more than 1 ohm. I think 1200 ohm is probably about right so while it might take a couple extra seconds for the capacitors to drain to zero volts, I like the softer approach of using the 1200 ohm resistor. For all practical purposes, 1 ohm is not much different than simply shorting the positive and negative leads (off the battery of course)
Thank you for answering to my post.
I cannot agree more with both your comments on the NP-PN approach to disconnecting-connecting battery and the resistor. I could not have explained it better.
Re: What did you do to your Crossfire today?
