Here's a option to cover that pulley nut, Harley Davidson chrome axle nut cover, with a little work, it has set screws to secure it

 

Just out of curiosity is there any benefit to doing this?

 

Absolutely not, I just did it out of boredom

 

Today I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter lower mounting bracket and rubber mounts. I also removed, cleaned and painted the upper mounting bracket.
Which brings me to a question. After I installed it I ran the car and checked for leaks. It was leaking where I had replaced a piece of fuel line from the pump to the filter.
I used regular 5/16" fuel line and screw clamps. The original looked like it had a lining inside that had collapsed. (see pictures).
My question: Is it ok to use regular auto parts store fuel line, or does it have to be Mercedes-Benz?
I have changed out the screw clamps with the originals. I haven't tried it yet since it was freezing in the garage and I couldn't use my portable heater.
I have clamped the big line from the gas tank as a precaution until I can work on the car again.

 

I'm trying for the life of me to think of what could possibly be specific to MB tubing as long as the replacement is rated the same. It's not like we have to run MB gas. 😕

 

Over 40 years of working on cars, this is the first time I've had a clamped hose leak. I think it might be that the Mercedes line has a liner in it and is more pressure resistant. I did put a tiny bit of silicon lube on the inlet to make it easier for the hose to slide off. I don't see how that would cause a leak though. I've ordered a new style of clamp and I'm going to M-B today to see if I can get that part or some line that will work.
It's probably $900.00 for that 4 inch piece! LOL

 

you can use aftermarket but make sure it is high pressure rated, most local auto parts store sell cheap fuel line that is only rated to 55psi, our system can exceed that pressure.

 

Thanks Rob, if I would have known it was going to leak, I would have ordered the hose with the bracket kit.
By the way, that bracket fits perfect! I'm glad I got the new bushings and screw with it.


Fuel pump/filter bracket from Needswings.com on the left. The original bracket on the right.

 

Took it out for a 83 mile warm up run on a clear dry winter day in the Midwest

 

Nice!

 

I think we passed that "Pub" place on our way to the Amish Country event last October.

 

This is in Illinois

 

sounds like it's worth stopping by twice 😆 🤣

 

As we drove home today the radiator light came on. The needle moved from just under the midpoint to just above it. Turned the heat on full blast and a few minutes later, the temperature dropped and the light went off. The temperature went up as we made our way up a very long incline, so ...
Stopped to pick up coolant, went home, and waited for the coolant to cool. Two hours later, opened the coolant tank and it was so, so low. Low enough that climbing that hill meant the intake was dry. Fortunately, we got the temperature down really quickly; it went more quickly once we were on level ground or heading downhill.
I just started driving Freya again, after a hiatus of almost 6 months. She really was not driven very much in that time. I did not see any sign of leaks, but I'll take the time tomorrow to check all the fluids, the TPMS light is on as per usual, so I'll have to add air somewhere (time to check again for a modern system that connects to my phone).
There was not an issue during the 40-mile round trip to a meeting tonight.

 

I have it confused with somewhere in Ohio. The intersection looks familiar. Does "four corners" or something like that ring a bell? I'm guessing we were about 15 miles away from the inn.

 

I swapped out my original key fob to one recommended by another forum member. I can't remember who it was.
The new one is from LA Car Tech and is built almost exactly like the original. I will have a post about it in "My Journey with my 2006 Roadster Svengoolie" thread.
Like the original, it was a pain in the butt to open! It does come with a blank transponder, circuit board and battery (single) already installed. I used my original parts.
Here's a couple of pictures comparing the both fobs.

 

For those looking to replace your key fob shell : These are the best quality I've seen yet, looks like the same fob you get from the mss grey or black $15


https://www.lacartech.com/collection...KyMr3ynkRcS9Ug

I found this grey OEM Crossfire key fob with circuit board for sale on the internet. You'll need your chip from the old fob and key shaft .
https://www.lacartech.com/collection...4-pcf7935-gray

 

So I have some extra cut brass, and at least one good working chip, maybe two. But I need a circuit board to work and not require the programmer.
Oh look. It's marked down.

MB Remote Keymaker

Default Title - $999.00 USD
$999.00 $1,199.00

 

I wish you would have posted the cheaper one sooner! LOL
It was still worth it. Very well built!

 

I finally got my Eurocharged STAGE 1 ECU flash installed last night. One thing you should know before you even start is that you'll carry out all the procedure yourself, without any external intervention, save for the reflash file you get sent (unless there are issues, where Eurocharged will intervene via TeamViewer). A fairly simple procedure though. Just click on the link you'll get sent via email and follow instructions step by step. Do not watch videos or outdated info that is still floating around on the internet. I got myself into a little mess till I simply stuck to the instructions sent by Eurocharged. All smooth from then on...

Everything was done online:

• Contacted them.
• Paid via PayPal ($516.20 from Spain. VAT + OBDII cable shipping costs included. It was a Black Friday offer).
• Downloaded their software and installed on laptop.

• Got their OBDII cable.
• Followed instructions and sent them my car details -the info the app got when plugged into my car- (.uic file) via email.
• Got a file sent (.euc file), which I installed via their Eurocharged software. No issues at all (car fan went crazy for a while, but it is supposed to do that). Eurocharged will send your factory ECU setup and the performance one within the same file, so you can swap between them when/if necessary.

• Went for a test drive. Car runs fine. First impression: a bit more power at the bottom end (revving up) of the engine, but nothing spectacular. I guess you cannot go too far on an N/A engine. Need to test it a bit more before I can give a fully informed opinion. I've read somewhere that ECU takes some mileage to readjust to the new settings. We'll see...

After MAF debaffling, throttle body upgrade, improved grounding, ECU flash, and a "sprint booster" to remove pedal lag, I am still waiting for the Needswings DCAI and oil catch can. Once installed, I hope to have improved an otherwise fun manual N/A limited Crossfire into a bit more of a "beastie thingie". I know, I know... If you want the PUSH, go for an SRT6. There's simply no available units for sale in Spain.

Thank you everybody for your previous posts regarding ECU flash. This text only intends to be my humble/personal contribution to other members who might be thinking of acquiring this mod for their N/A units.