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Show us the door an the hinges. I'm gonna say that they win. I would love to do that. But other projects come first. That's hilarious about your wet foot. I'm sure you'll figure it out an I would like to say ,welcome to the forum.
A member on here had them on for a long time and gave up on them as being too much bother. Basically the doors are too heavy.
Mind reader! Worse, if you forget to tell someone they're installed they try to open them straight out... (Think flexion, loud creak sounds, startled looks, door handle snapping sounds, cringing, more cringing, etc, etc.)
Replaced the fuel relay control module and crankshaft position sensor. (Lesson learned: I should have changed both out at once).
In the summer, my SRT-6 threw a code on the road. Drove to the nearest Autozone. The salesman said I should change the fuel relay control module.
About a month ago, I started stalling. (I had just bought new front tires the day before). I sent my fuel relay module to Tighed for the fix, and put it back in
The second time I started it up after replacing the module, my problems re-occurred. Tried to drive it to my local Autozone but it stalled near home. Left it there overnight, limped it back home.
Bought an OBD code reader from Sears, bought a new module off eBay, put some RCR fuel cleaner in the tank and put the module in. More trouble. 10 codes at least, my Sears scanner said.
Drove to my local Autozone and made it all the way there. They only got three codes but one of them was P0335 (which the Sears scanner did not pick up). Bought a sensor from them on the spot, got home and put it in.
Started it back up. Still running rough. While my Sears reader gave me 12 codes, Autozone only spotted four: P0306, P0206, P0412 and P0135. Salesman wanted to sell me an injector on the spot. I think I will check my coil pack and wiring in the area of cylinder 6 first.
Valk, the codes on Cylinder 6 did not come up on the visit I got the crankshaft position sensor. I will check my connectors first thing in the morning. At least I am not in imminent danger of stalling out someplace.
Over the past couple of weeks, I've changed the oil and filter; flushed the cooling system and replaced the coolant; replaced the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors; and clayed, polished, and waxed the paint.
Today I "repaired" the dome light: 15 minutes to remove the light defractor, 5 minutes to realize that their are two screws holding the assembly in place, 10 minutes to find the bulb and get it back in place properly. Then I moved on to replacing the hatch lamps: 3 minutes to unscrew each lenses and replace the bulbs, 5 minutes to remember that this is a German car. That meant turning on the lights to activate the two lights. Sheisa (sp)!
Today I "repaired" the dome light: 15 minutes to remove the light defractor, 5 minutes to realize that their are two screws holding the assembly in place, 10 minutes to find the bulb and get it back in place properly. Then I moved on to replacing the hatch lamps: 3 minutes to unscrew each lenses and replace the bulbs, 5 minutes to remember that this is a German car. That meant turning on the lights to activate the two lights. Sheisa (sp)!
Those lights illuminate the license plate at night so turning on the lights or starting the car in Canada will power the bulbs.
Do not tighten the screws too much as that will crack the lens.
Those lights illuminate the license plate at night so turning on the lights or starting the car in Canada will power the bulbs.
Do not tighten the screws too much as that will crack the lens.
Wait, those are for illuminating the license plate?! Doh! I thought they were for the hatch... Boy, I feel dumb -- I assumed that they worked like other cars from Deutschland: you want the hood light to work? Turn your lights on.
Today I removed the knee bolster from my '05 Limited Coupe. I decided to try a new (?) method after giving the recommended method(s) some thought.
Rather than remove the lower panel to which the bolster is attached, I decided I would simply cut off the front of it thus exposing the connectors and cutting them off as well. The total time couldn't have been more than 20 minutes what with taking my time, selecting various tools (hacksaw blade, channel lock pliers, needle nose pliers, air tool with cutting disc, etc), and trying to get it right the first time.
So, I first cut the front off, then removed the styrofoam with help from a chisel and then peeled the bolster off to reveal the connecting points and then cutting these with various tools.
The results were just fine. Would recommend this method for those who like the destructo-method of car work.
Today I removed the knee bolster from my '05 Limited Coupe. I decided to try a new (?) method after giving the recommended method(s) some thought.
Rather than remove the lower panel to which the bolster is attached, I decided I would simply cut off the front of it thus exposing the connectors and cutting them off as well. The total time couldn't have been more than 20 minutes what with taking my time, selecting various tools (hacksaw blade, channel lock pliers, needle nose pliers, air tool with cutting disc, etc), and trying to get it right the first time.
So, I first cut the front off, then removed the styrofoam with help from a chisel and then peeled the bolster off to reveal the connecting points and then cutting these with various tools.
The results were just fine. Would recommend this method for those who like the destructo-method of car work.
Wow... Are you 'tall' or 'long legged'? Curious why you hacked them out?
Wow... Are you 'tall' or 'long legged'? Curious why you hacked them out?
.
He's both, his friends call him the giraffe because of his height and hair colour.
Just kidding, he said he was tall in his third post on the forum when he posted in the bolster thread.
Re: What did you do to your Crossfire today?
Wow... Are you 'tall' or 'long legged'? Curious why you hacked them out? 
