The supercooler cap is pressure regulated so once the coolant system reaches higher PSI than whats the cap is rated for the coolant sprays out from the pressure cap off the supercooler.

 

Yes. Rob stated he would look for the original pressure cap designed for my supercooler but we have not found one. I do not see how this would solve the issue but its worth a try, I am currently using a 16psi rated cap on the supercooler. The coolant system should not create more than 9.5 PSI but mine goes over 22. Thanks for you help and advice.

 

You said pressure gauge not cap so it had me wondering, now I see, thanks.

 

I have a supercooler and this has not happen to me. You sure its not excess coolant running out? I DD my srt-6 and I never had a problem with my supercooler except when I first put it on, I had a leak but that was because I didnt have fitting tight enough.

The overflow tank is doing the regular leak from the nipple like everybody else though. Ive just went and ordered a new one.

 

Replaced mine with a base model crossfire tank an separated coolant system at same time,

 

Like every one else? I think not.

 

Did you figure out where the coolant leak is coming from? I have this same issue. Everything is fine until I do a few high speed runs and then I find coolant sprayed on the right underside of the hood and engine bay. I don't have a supercooler. I thought maybe I'd try replacing the 0-ring on the coolant overflow tank cap. I can't get my head around why running at high boost would overpressurize the cooling system / coolant overflow tank. My coolant temp gauge runs in the normal range. Please let me know what you found . . .

 

Could be air leaking into the cooling system in the IC.
Let's say 10 psi coolant pressure one side of the IC cooler and 15 psi on the SC side. A small hole and the air passes into the coolant. No boost and the coolant passes into the air stream.

 

The only way to prove your theory is by testing, is there any way to force it into boost mode while sitting still?
You can attach a radiator pressure tester to the overflow tank and then raise the RPM's and force it into boost mode and watch the gauge.
Check the pressure before boost mode at high RPMs and then during boost mode at high RPM's, what do you think 180?

 

I think if the hose attached to the nipple just behind the filling cap was lifted I am sure you would find that is where the coolant is coming from, that is where it was designed to escape from when the system was over pressured.
We know the ICs are prone to cracking and show it by getting a coating of coolant on the outside also that the inside of the plenums get coated in sludgy coolant as well after some time.
A leak down test should work but it may take some time. Coolant would enter the air stream in a puddle though rather than as a fine spray easily burnt if the engine was not running. The SC would only run when the car was moving so that other test would be more difficult.
Maybe the easiest test would be to remove a plenum and look for coolant traces inside it, or look at the IC.
dcp_4797_zps60b26f79.jpg

 

Maybe i'm just dumb but, How do I do this??

 

Use the tap to put a thread in the hole, screw the barbed fitting in and use a clamp as shown to secure the hose to the fitting.
Someone (Doc ?) just screwed the fitting into the hole without using a tap.
Buy the fitting at The Home Depot or Lowes, just make sure the hose fits.

 

Thanks, totally makes sense now

 

I wouldn't use a tap, less chance of shavings if you just threat the fitting in there. I am on 6 yrs on the roadster, 3 on the coupe. That nipple is very fragile. It was a bad design. I broke mine on both cars when leaning in to do some work. Seem to always place my hand there for some reason. Good luck.

 

I had this broken nipple happen to mine recently. I noticed loss of power when accelerating and thought the car might be in limp mode so I was curious to see if I could find something out of the ordinary under the hood. And I found this...



Nearly all the coolant in the tank was gone. Surprisingly, the low coolant dummy light in the speedometer cluster never lit up to indicate any problem.

So, the following day, I decided to take out the coolant reservoir and replace the broken nipple by going to Lowes and bought a threaded, 1/4" MIP brass hose barb (UPC# 32888 19154 9) for less than $3. I did not have to buy a tap because one was already available to me with a just little mod.

To make the tap, I just created six small slits at the end of the threaded end of the barb using a small Dremel grinding wheel.



The slits were cut at an angle so it would take a better 'bite' into the material.


The tanks nipple hole center was relocated about 1/8" inboard and the new hole was enlarged using a 1/2" drill bit.



The new hole reveals a nice amount of plastic material for the barb thread to bite into.


Next, I tapped the hole using the modified barb thread in a slow clockwise-counterclockwise motion until I no longer felt any resistance. A 14mm open end wrench worked best for this process


Here's a nice shot of the new thread in the plastic material.


With the tank cleaned of any plastic shavings, it was time to finalize the new barb installation.


The new barb installed and tightened with a coat of 2-part epoxy and allowed to cure while the tank was mounted back to the Crossfire.


And the final pic with everything re-connected, tightened and filled.


To make sure everything was working again, the Crossfire was ran at idle to operating temperature for 30 minutes with the vents on high heat. The low coolant dummy light in the speedo cluster remained on and turned off intermittently but eventually was back to normal after its first commute.

Very happy at the results. Power was back up and the repair only took me 2 hours, a little epoxy, two jugs of 50/50 coolant and a barb that cost less than $3.00!

 

Nice DIY write-up with pic's. The trick with the Dremel tool was a good one!

Probably will end up doing this on my coupe one day.

Nice job.

 

Good job, this fix is similar to Red Dogs fix from a year or so ago.
One point, the coolant is too high as you have it shown, it should be level with the white pillar visible inside the tank. It will just blow out and make a mess under the hood.

 

Made the attached PDF this morning of MAGNATUDE's DIY post. Added this to my library of Forum fixes.

I gotta go look under the hood of my coupe in this area. And I've got to be more aware of this weakness when working in & around this area.

Learned something new today! It's gonna be a great day!

 

Fault of my own caused this small nipple on my coolant tank to obtain a very small crack.
The hose was not all the way over the nipple therefore it had a point it could crack if bent.
For a temporary fix only I cleaned the small crack applied some gorilla glue let it dry overnight slid the hose all the way over the nipple and tightened the clamp right at the point where the crack was.
The car was driveable but still had a slight steam leak.

Fortunately I live close to Rudy (our V8 Crossfire expert and Mercedes Benz mechanic) and he had a spare coolant tank and I was able to pick it up from his house today.
I came home and swapped the tanks and I'm good to go now.
He has tried the Brass Nipple repair on these tanks and has had one that held and one that did not and recommended I simply replace the tank
He explained that when the plastic heats up and is under pressure the brass fitting threaded in even with various thread tapes or sealers simply cant be trusted to hold up under pressure.
I travel to events around the country every year and agreed I wasn't 100% comfortable with this kind of repair even though others here have had success with it

 

Is there a part number for the tank?