crossfire warning light
But...did he call an exorcist?
i see somebody saying an rcm fix whats that all about the car works so good i cant get another new alt, is about 500 buck plus around here i got a new one online not rebuild its brand new cost me 100 bucks to send back , hmmmm maybe ill try the old alt, that wasnt charging see if lights go out then i would know that at least , again like i said spoiler up no speedometer, abs on, emergency brake light on, and other lights that i have no idea what they are, i would take it to the dealers but there seem to know less then i do about crossfires never seen anything like this before, i have unhook battery cable no luck there, read the codes no codes coming up but engine light staying on lol figure that one out
The RCM is inside the box by the battery, the module closest to the engine.
However, having said that, I don't think the RCM fits your symptoms.
Do this : If you don't already have a cheap digital meter, buy one and see what the battery measures across the 2 posts.
Should be 12.2 volts or better.
If it is, then start it up ( if it will ) and measure again. Should be 13.8 - 14.2 volts.
Now measure from the positive terminal to a good place on the engine, should not vary very much from the 13.8 to 14.2.
Report back.
However, having said that, I don't think the RCM fits your symptoms.
Do this : If you don't already have a cheap digital meter, buy one and see what the battery measures across the 2 posts.
Should be 12.2 volts or better.
If it is, then start it up ( if it will ) and measure again. Should be 13.8 - 14.2 volts.
Now measure from the positive terminal to a good place on the engine, should not vary very much from the 13.8 to 14.2.
Report back.
Last edited by ala_xfire; Jun 14, 2016 at 04:46 PM.
The RCM is inside the box by the battery, the module closest to the engine.
However, having said that, I don't think the RCM fits your symptoms.
Do this : If you don't already have a cheap digital meter, but one and see what the battery measures across the 2 posts.
Should be 12.2 volts or better.
If it is, then start it up ( if it will ) and measure again. Should be 13.8 - 14.2 volts.
Now measure from the positive terminal to a good place on the engine, should not vary very much from the 13.8 to 14.2.
Report back.
However, having said that, I don't think the RCM fits your symptoms.
Do this : If you don't already have a cheap digital meter, but one and see what the battery measures across the 2 posts.
Should be 12.2 volts or better.
If it is, then start it up ( if it will ) and measure again. Should be 13.8 - 14.2 volts.
Now measure from the positive terminal to a good place on the engine, should not vary very much from the 13.8 to 14.2.
Report back.
ok did that battery not running is 12.38 amps, car running 14.28 at battery 14,31 with it on the engine, like i say car has new battery and alt. car is charging and i can drive it anywheres works great just all those lights and no speedometer and spoiler up and blinking on the dash
ok did that battery not running is 12.38 amps, car running 14.28 at battery 14,31 with it on the engine, like i say car has new battery and alt. car is charging and i can drive it anywheres works great just all those lights and no speedometer and spoiler up and blinking on the dash
I know it seems tedious and crazy but by eliminating what it is not you will arrive at what it is, basic diagnostic troubleshooting 101, at least you will have eliminated the charging system from the equation and you can move on from there knowing that you have a solid charging Foundation to work from.😉 Oh, and don't forget to disconnect the ground cable, wouldn't want to create any more problems.
A failing RCM, in particular a bad traction control relay, can contribute to every one of those symptoms. The Crossfire may still start and run fine because the solder joints and other relays are working properly. But a failed traction control relay can cause every one of the OP's symptoms - INCLUDING THE NON-FUNCTIONAL SPEEDOMETER! I have experienced this first hand.
If the OP knows another Crossfire (or any one of numerous MB vehicles with the identical part) owner he/she should consider switching out the RCM just to eliminate it as the possible issue. It is a simple procedure. Could also open up the RCM to observe whether all the relays, with the exception of the horn relay close when the key is turned to on (though that will not fully verify proper operation since relay contacts may be worn).
ok rob is the traction control relay part of the rcm and is that the module with the fuses in it , by the way i tired the another alt, and still same thing , where are these solder spots located on the relay
Yes it is part of the RCM , there are five relays inside the RCM cover, and now that you have eliminated the alternator you can move on.
There are quite a few threads on RCM-related issues in the forum. Trouble is, with all that info, it can be difficult or take lots of time reading through posts to get to the ones that are applicable. Go here to post #5 from tighed1:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ump-relay.html
The photo is labeled to show the location of each relay in the RCM. You can remove the RCM cover and plug the RCM back in to observe that the relays close when they key is turned on. In my case the traction control relay coil was bad and the relay would not close at all. You can also test the relays individually once disconnected from the wiring harness by applying current to the two little posts on the printed circuit board next to each relay (your car's 12v battery, or even a common 9v battery will work). The traction control and engine control relays should act in tandem when tested individually. I am recommending that you investigate the RCM, and this relay in particular, to at least rule it out as the problem. Individual RCM relays can be repaired (tighed1, for example, reconditions them to include re-solder and relay replacement where required). New RCMs can be purchased online for less than $150. I now carry a spare.
Here is the monster-sized discussion on what solder joints fail - though that issue more commonly causes a no start condition:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html
So, if you know someone with a Crossfire (or late 1990s or early 2000s MB with the identical Stribel RCM) see if you can try it in your Crossfire (the RCM is plug and play and won't have any ill effects). If not, remove the cover from your RCM and test it while plugged into the wiring harness to observe all the relays closing (except for the horn relay) when you turn the key. Or, unplug the RCM and test the relays individually.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ump-relay.html
The photo is labeled to show the location of each relay in the RCM. You can remove the RCM cover and plug the RCM back in to observe that the relays close when they key is turned on. In my case the traction control relay coil was bad and the relay would not close at all. You can also test the relays individually once disconnected from the wiring harness by applying current to the two little posts on the printed circuit board next to each relay (your car's 12v battery, or even a common 9v battery will work). The traction control and engine control relays should act in tandem when tested individually. I am recommending that you investigate the RCM, and this relay in particular, to at least rule it out as the problem. Individual RCM relays can be repaired (tighed1, for example, reconditions them to include re-solder and relay replacement where required). New RCMs can be purchased online for less than $150. I now carry a spare.
Here is the monster-sized discussion on what solder joints fail - though that issue more commonly causes a no start condition:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html
So, if you know someone with a Crossfire (or late 1990s or early 2000s MB with the identical Stribel RCM) see if you can try it in your Crossfire (the RCM is plug and play and won't have any ill effects). If not, remove the cover from your RCM and test it while plugged into the wiring harness to observe all the relays closing (except for the horn relay) when you turn the key. Or, unplug the RCM and test the relays individually.
still working on this lol like i said car works great cant find any issues other then all the warning light , i had the rcm out all solder points look good , plig it in turn key on looking at the relays some open and some closed number 2 relay didnt closed think thats the one for traction control which is one of my light that is on ,first should this relay closed when i turn the key on second how do i check this relay to see if its any good
still working on this lol like i said car works great cant find any issues other then all the warning light , i had the rcm out all solder points look good , plig it in turn key on looking at the relays some open and some closed number 2 relay didnt closed think thats the one for traction control which is one of my light that is on ,first should this relay closed when i turn the key on second how do i check this relay to see if its any good


