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This is a good idea and makes the wheel installation easy. LONG AGO I posted the process of cutting the head off a long bolt to screw into the hub to align and ease the placement of the wheel when installing them. This PIN made the wheel alignment a bit easier while fumbling with the tire weight.
I did this a decade ago as I was swapping rims constantly. Street, drag and track. Not to mention experimenting with spacers to vary the offset. (track racing purposes) The heat from racing made a thread locker a requirement. Having 3 sets of rims with different offsets, I needed long studs. They simplified my life for sure. However, the hub caps don't fit over the longer studs.
I have found it relatively painless to replace and tighten wheel when using one of Woody's long thread headless bolts to get it started. The trick is to set on the ground with your legs under the car and the wheel on you upper legs above the knees. Using your large legs muscles to adjust the rims hole to line up with the long bolt and then sliding the wheel in to place is easy enough and NO BACK PAIN. It is a dirty job, but not hard when in a setting position.
I too was struggling with putting wheels on, went to the hardware store about 3 or 4 years ago and bought a long bolt, cut the head off and ground the edges round and haven’t had any struggles since. Money well spent.
Last edited by JSK; Dec 23, 2022 at 01:38 PM.
Reason: Spelling
IF the M12x1.25 is accurate, then get an idea from this link. I purchased my set of 2 off Ebay (my set of 2 are a lot longer than the one offered in this (
I went to studs on my car. Makes getting the wheels on and off much easier. I also have more thread engagement in the hub than the stock bolts had. I did grind the heads down just a bit to get as much threaded length as possible, but still be able to put the stock SRT6 hub caps on.
I use a bolt with the head cut off (two different sizes) for my Crossfires, Audi, and Maserati. Makes it much easier for an old(er) guy who removes, cleans, and waxes four sets of rims annually.
This is the best idea imho, fit the wheel to one stud and rotate the wheel until it lines up to the location diameter on the hub. Keep the minimum gap under the tire. Or use two bolts one an inch or so longer than the other and both with a nice gentle taper on the outside end.
Remember to clean the location diameters and add a spot of lithium grease to them to retard any corrosion. Clean the faces where the bolts go through.
Last edited by onehundred80; Jan 25, 2023 at 05:57 PM.
I had to pull all four wheels today to change/add spacers, this alignment pin worked great. No need to sit on my butt with my legs under the vehicle (always with wood blocks under the car for safety). Hard to go wrong for $10. Nice to have in the event of a flat tire.
i used the hanger/alignment tool for 13 years now Mercedes p.n sorry don't have it.
as for the studs, they are not to be used for racing,(i know some of us do it anyway) the studs go all the way through as you know, if your rear studs are too long and go in too far they hit the emergency break cable. i do not use spacers or studs and yes it is a pain in the *** to install the wheels so i buy the almost drag radials tires for the street, they are std on 6 to 700 hp cars like bmw and mercedes that are very solff, and last about 40,000 miles.that way i don't have to change tires at the track any more.
look at https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-new-post.html you see i got a o.15 light and a 1.888 60' so yes they grip,, street tires and open rear. jim
I've got a couple of wheel hanger pins for the Crossfire, along with a couple for the 2016 VW Beetle Dune we have. The Beetle uses the 14x1.5 thread. These have come in handy quite a bit these past few years.