Good morning,
I have owned my 2006 Crossfire convertible now since 2009 and so far have done 100% of my own maintenance on it. I have found it difficult to find shops willing to touch it.
I have replace the Convertible top, the Alternator, the idler pully, the A/C Fan blower and more...
I find that strange because it is truly a mechanics car, the engineering is logical and the access to components are simple. Then again I have not had big problems.

Yesterday I backed the car out of the driveway to work on the Golf cart which wouldn't go (no potentiometer action).
After doing so, I took down the XFire Trunk interior to replace a RH Bad Bake light (Filaments looked fine); replaced it anyway went to move the Crossfire back in the garage; then it happened...

No Engine Crank, No Brake Lights, With key on; Auto Transmission would not come out of Park & Tail Fin was up and would not retract,
This was crazy, all of these failing at the same time, has to be some anti-theft devise engaged or a computer failure.
I found these two useful YouTube videos. I believe I had a problem of both, the RSM & the SKEEM.
What I believe happened was my Crank/Start function failed due to bad solder AND my three attempts triggered the Antitheft and killed the key fob.

My Fix?
1. Removed the Negative Lead off the batter (safety and this killed the computer and SKEEM Memory).
2. I removed the RCM Board as per video #1, found the bad solder joints suggested - 4th picture, (I had 4 bad on the Start relay of the board and 5 other bad solders). Repaired the solder joints.
In the 4th picture you can see the black area of NO-Contact on the solder joints, this is not typically visible on the naked eye (picture 3), take a good focus picture of these and blow it up.
3. Reinstalled and put the car back together, car started first try.

Maybe this fixed my problem, it was simple.
See photos:







If you have this problem, these videos my help.

RCM: Relay Control Module:

You Tube

SKEEM Repair and Replacement:

You Tube

 

When it does it again, send me your RCM because your traction control relay is going bad.
Email tighed1@hotmail.com for the info on getting your RCM refurbished.

 

YOu did provide some really good photos for what has to be the most common reason our cars suddenly leave people stranded. But we call that the "Mystery No Start". It was documented here fourteen years ago and DJ become the defacto "go to guy" for those not willing to learn to solder just to fix their car.

Skillfully crafted clickable link

As our cars have aged, it has been learned that the engine control relay, traction control relay and fuel pump relay are also prone to two failure modes: open coil and pitted armature contacts.
For $65 or so, DJ reflows the solder and changes the three relays (maybe more relays, not sure). He just did mine when my engine control relay coil failed.

The current advice is to have your RCM reworked by DJ as a precaution and most of us 9 (myself included) carry a spare RCM. Mostly because an open relay coil is a real pain when you are 50 miles from home and have no rubber bands with you to hold the relay closed.

 

Pizza Guy,
Thanks for your note on DJ. I have not seen this repair reported here - or I hadn't found it yet. In any case it is good that others have.
If able please attache "DJ" contact so that I may contact him with other unknowns.
thanks -

 

DJ Tighe posted in this thread earlier today. I can attest to the quality of his work. I did the RCM purchase, send to DJ, replace the tuned up RCM, send him the OEM, and it rests in a bag in the trunk, just in case.
Oh, I had the BAS/ESC light on, the check engine light, and the car would crank, but not start. I tried again and all was well. Checked the tech files here, they are amazing, and I ordered the RCM as soon as I got home. No real problems since.

 

Good morning,
On another Topic:
Noisy fuel Pump. I just replied to another post that didn't seem to go anywhere. 3 years ago I replaced my fuel pump; if memory serves me correctly. it simply died.
Now, like the poster, three years later, I have a noisy fuel pump. It comes on like it should to pressurize the fuel line, then gets loader based on fuel demand. It never stops running.
I believe these pump have a built in Pressure Regulator. If so, I need a new pump.
thoughts? - D

 

That’s three posts you have done today on the pump, not many people are going to answer as any answer may appear in one of three threads.
This topic is not in this thread, you should have started a new thread, and not used this thread, a three year old thread and a nineteen year old thread.
Just give simple facts about your symptoms.
I doubt it is the pump.

 

Well as luck would have it... I am Stranded... I think the OAT might have something to do with it, as when it failed the first time the OAT we 100 DEG +, today it is 104+.
DJ I have sent you an email to cet mine repaired... the right way!

 

Heat mostly affects the CPS. Only use BOSCH.

 

Here is info for DJ from DJ.......