Howdy fellas,


Picked her up last weekend, Texas car which does mean a lot as I`m in the NW`Burbs of Chicago. As expected with any used car there is some work to be done. Probably the same common issues most of you have encountered.


Was hoping for some input and or horror stories, so I can get her up and running correctly without starting to hate her I hope I don`t come across as lazy, as I have read quite a few posts on the forum already, I have just been working a lot of hours and don`t have a lot of free time to waste on research, I need it to do the actual work!


1. Leaky valve covers. Any tricks on removal/installation? or particular brand gasket to buy or stay away from?


2. Rear (passenger) wheel speed sensor, verified from a shop that can read the codes. Best place to buy? Should I go ahead and replace or try to re-seat the pin connector?


3. Rear shocks, top of driver`s side is loose and clunking where it attaches to the body, I haven`t personally been under he car yet, so I don`t know if it`s straight forward or any tricks involved. Also recommendations on type or style. I don`t know, there may only be one bilstein shock available. This car will only see street use. Oh, any special jack or jack stand locations?


4. It almost appears as something is missing on both "stops" for the rear hatch, they are just metal and wearing thru the paint. I would assume there was a rubber bumper of some sort that belongs between them??


5. Heated seats don`t work.


So thank`s in advance to al those that are willing to lend a hand, I`m not new to cars, had plenty of muscle cars and late 80`s turbo Buicks, just new to this shall we say "Interesting" car.


THANKS!!!

 

I'll answer what I can :
1. valve covers themselves generally don't leak, they have a well designed rubber gasket. It's the little 'vent' covers on top which leak. They are put on at the factory with MB brand RTV sealant, it deteriorates over time. The trick to fixing this is to remove them and get them REALLY CLEAN before applying some new RTV. I used Permatex black, seems to work fine.

2. I'd say first clean the connector really good with electronic contact cleaner, and see it that fixes it. I don't know a good source for a new one.

3. Never even looked at this. ( jack stand locations are the four jacking points - to get the car up, first jack up the rear via the differential and place the 2 rear jack stands. Then you can get the floor jack in from the side up to a point in the front where there is a body cross member. )

4. I have a roadster, so not familiar with the hatch.

5. What else is new. NOBODY's heated seats work COMPLETELY anymore. See this : https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...eat-repair.doc

 

Welcome
I'm in Aurora, Ill
What town are you in ??

Congrats on your purchase

Gary

 

Hey Gary,


I`m in the sprawling metropolis of Island Lake, just over 8,000 people. Finally had the time to check out the car on my own, it`s not the shock, but the bushing for the anti-sway bar.


ala_xfire,

Thanks for the advice on the leak, it appears you are right, I sprayed some cleaner on the top of the valve cover and will see what I can find after a couple of a days. I also found some corrosion in the connector at the wheel, sprayed it with contact cleaner a few times, snapped them together a few times to no avail, so I guess I`m looking at a new one.
And thanks also for the jacking information, I was just asking because I had a `98 Vette and you had to be careful.


Still trying to find out about that rear hatch??

 

Not exactly sure of your situation with the bumpers, but yes, there generally are 2 blact ribbed bumpers in the coupes hatch area that seat on each side. They are adjustable as well. If you are missing them, then you likely are having a lot of hatch noise and travel. I'd expect you will need to buy some and install and then trial and error on adjusting them for not only fit but also for function (to avoid hatch rattle. I also applied some clear "bumpers" that stick on the body at the point where the bumpers seat. This helps with movement and securing the hatch so there isn't any rattle.

Good luck and welcome.

 

Congrats on your purchase!! These are unique cars. Welcome to the club!

I've had my Crossie for over a year and love her! Never had such a fun car to drive and she's a real head turner. Get ready for being stopped wherever you go & having people ask you questions and ask where they can buy one.

 

PNA,


Thanks, right now all I have is aluminum "spacers/bumpers" mounted to the hatch with no rubber at all, I knew it couldn`t be right, making metal to metal contact, but I don`t know what is supposed to be there.


Hotwheels,


Right now my son has been driving it, now he wants to buy it And yes prior to my purchase I`ve only seen a few driving around, that`s good and bad. Such as me trying to look at another to see what actually belongs between my rear hatch and the body. I think there`s one at a dealership nearby, might have to make a stop...

 

Some good but not inclusive advise here. HERE is your problem, most gearheads do not look in the intro section more than once a year. Despite what some of the grumpy old codgers might say, the search function works well for me, There are many threads dealing with the Rubber Trunk Bumpers. Too many to list all the creative fixes. The Valve cover breather is easy to do, but just time staking. Do not over tighten the long screws when you put it back on.

 

Check with NewChryslerParts.com

I believe they have them for about 15dollars each.

Bumper STOP/BMPR LIFTGATE - Coupe LIFT GATE »Gate & hardwareChrysler › Crossfire › 2004-2008List Price : $20.56
Your Price : $15.22
I would call them to make sure it's the proper part.

Also, check on here for someone parting out cars. I would expect you could find used ones. This is not something most people need so I think anyone parting out a car would have them.

Good luck.

 

Welcome to the Forum. Valve cover is an easy fix. Just remove, clean and seal with gasket sealant. A woman can do it . Rear speed sensor, not sure what you mean. Tire pressure sensor? Can be found on Ebay which is a good place to looks for used parts. Also a lot of Mercedes parts are cheaper than the chrysler parts. Number3 and 4 I let someone else answer. Number 5, Paul Diguer just posted a great video on the Chrysler Owners page on Facebook how to do the fix.
Join in the fun and enjoy your car. It's a great car with little problems.
Inge

 

05roadsterguy,

Thanks!, I did the search as you recommended and I believe that`s what I`m trying to explain, the problem is I don`t have any rubber on my stops, so that`s why I don`t know what or how to describe what I`m looking for.






PNA,
Thanks for your effort, I`m sorry I`m so confusing with my description, but I don`t know what they`re called. My son has had the car and I haven`t had a chance to get a pic of what I`m trying to explain
but I do have this pic of the lower left (driver side) of the rear (I guess you would call it) trunk area that I took when I initially looked at the car. The rust is because the "Stops/bumpers" mounted on the rear hatch are solid aluminum or pot metal, against the metal body. This is where I believe there must be something that is missing out of either rubber or plastic to act as a cushion.


Gary Blitz,


Thanks, that`s one of the reasons I bought this car, I knew any type of car that has a forum usually means it has a great community of fellow owners willing to lend tips and advice on keeping them running and in one piece! Now if I can only find a woman to fix my leak

 

Good find PNA those are probably the ones! I read in one of the threads that a fellow made some from high density foam. If $15 bucks is all they cost, then why hassle making any. Ill file that away for future usage.

 

Yeah I'm pretty sure those would be the bumpers you need. They attache on the hatch lid deck and seat on the area you shown on the picture. BTE, I would sand, prime and paint those areas right away so as to avoid further deterioration. When you get the bumper parts and install them, I would also get a few of the clear adhesive little "thingies" ( like you put under a glass table over wood) and seat them right where the hatch bumpers sit on that area when closed. It will help protect, limit the need for precise adjustment to the bumpers and also stop any rattle noise from play in the hatch while driving. I'm pretty sure that's why the paint is worn there and it's rusty. The previous ownwer/s didn't have them seated or adjusted properly and it shook rattled and rolled while driving, rubbing off the paint.

Enjoy the car, if you ever get it back from your son.