I'm considering changing out the factory audio system for something fancier. I haven't made any decisions yet; I'm just learning all I can so I know what my options are. The wiring diagram for the factory amplifier has a wire labeled "DG/WT" that runs to the "Body Control Module" and the "Controller Antilock Brake." Is it normal to have the stereo amplifier connected to the antilock brakes? Should I expect to find equivalent connections on aftermarket amplifiers? For those who have replaced their amp, what brand/model did you use? Was it an easy swap? Can you use the existing speaker wires?

The radio has a wire labeled "YL/DG" that goes to a "Data Link Connector." Is this also a standard connection I would find on aftermarket dash units?

 

I read the section of the service manual that describes how to get to the amplifier. It's really not that hard. Pull back the carpet at the top of the passenger side footwell. Remove the styrofoam block and you'll see a metal plate. There are three black plastic nuts holding it in place. Two of those are at the bottom of the plate below the fold of the carpet. A small ratchet can get in there and unscrew the nuts.

I've attached photos of what I found on the plate. There is a LOT of stuff on there and a LOT of wires. There are two plastic wire harnesses that plug into the side of the amplifier. If you're going to replace the amplifier, I'm guessing you have to disassemble these harnesses, right? There's a metal bracket holding the amplifier in place. Screws go through the bracket and into the side of the amplifier. Are these screw locations standard? Will any replacement amplifier have screw holes that align with the ones in this bracket? If not, how have others mounted replacement amps?

It almost looks like it would be easier to run new wires to new speakers and a new head unit than to mess with that amplifier.

 

If you get a chance would you take measurements of the amp and the space available in the "hole".

I am wondering how large of an amplifier could be mounted in the stock location.

 

Sure. Before I would even consider swapping in a new amp, I want to know:

1. Will the screw holes in the brackets match the screw holes in a new amp?
2. If not, will they match the holes that attach the brackets to the plate?
3. How hard is it to rewire the wiring harness going in to the amplifier?
4. Given the stock amplifier's connections to the antilock brake system and the body control module, is a replacement even feasible?

Somebody here MUST have done this before, right?

 

The stock amplifier measures 8 1/8" x 6" x 1 3/4". The black plastic nuts holding the plate on are 10mm.

 

After reading through other posts on this forum, I think the wire on the wiring diagram that runs to the body control module and antilock brake controller is the speed sensor.

 

I would expect the connectors have some sort of release on them and then simply disconnect from the amp. I doubt the holes on the brackets are standard, and also doubt the connectors are standard.

Isn't it funny how the mind plays tricks? I decided to open the compartment and see if ventilation would "cure" the problem (it doesn't) and found that indeed the amp is the same. Sorry for the senior moment...

The problem I'm having is my stereo sound stops working for intermittent periods and I suspect a power amp problem - possibly a short or a heat-related problem. Given the difference in appearance between your amp and what I have, I am wondering if those brackets were added as a way to reduce heat problems, and mine is a prior version that didn't have the brackets...??? I guess when the replacement unit comes from the dealer, I will see...

 

I am having the same problems as you did, radio powers up, lights work but most of the time now I get no sound from the stero.
Did you end up having to replace the amp?

 

It's probably cheaper to replace your headunit and amp with aftermarket stuff. I think the factory amp is 400-500 bucks new. I definitely would not put any other amp in the factory location. Even with the limited air blowing into that spot it has to be hot. I placed mine low behind the passenger seat.

 

Yes - I replaced the amp and the problems stopped. I got it done under warrantee though I really had to work hard to keep the dealer from hacking it up and putting something else in there. In the end they (incorrectly) thought it was fiber optic and got scared away from having Bubba at the stereo store put something else in. I ended up with a factory amp and it's been fine ever since (my post was September 2007 so it's been a year and a third since the fix)

 

you might be surprised at how much difference an aftermarket headunit will make. I had to replace the stock one with more functions, and you can get multiple preouts for further expansion. chris

 

Indeed! Truer words were never spoken...

 

after adding my sub and amp, I could use another amp, and some componets, to keep up with the boom. But you can get a very nice sounding stock speaker system, with a headunit upgrade. And thanks, ppro, chris

 

Does anyone knows if I can take out the original amp and not having any problems with other components, I've seen that the amp is conected to other stuff besides the speakers. Thanks!

 

I took mine out and sold it. No problems here.

 

So I guess the other connections that go to other components are for the sound system as well, Great, Thanks!