I know - fish them. Seriously, what existing hole/spot do most people use?

I want to bring two leads in so I can wire a small Painless Wiring Fuse Panel for switched and unswitched power (12v).

I plan to bring in the signal from Fuse 5 and 12v from the battery. From there the two wire into the new Painless wiring fuse panel.

I would like to put the fuse panel in the glove box so I'd prefer a route that gets me in that neighborhood as easily as possible.

 

by the fuse box.

 

I found my answer. There is a message and an accompanying photo that describe the location of a grommet behind the battery tray that is seen with battery and tray removed. Messages are here


https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...46/ppuser/4465

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...light=firewall

 

Remove the battery and you will find a rubber nipple that you can cut to feed a wire through. I ran a 4ga power wire through there. I also fished a small wire from inside the fuse box into the cabin. Pull down the carpet on the pass side and put a bright light way up in there then remove the fuse box cover and close the garage door and turn off the lights, You will see a route for your wire. Sorry I don't have any pics.

 

didnt see that i could have save 3 feet of wire!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks to the person who posted that photo. That grommet was actually made to be used that way. Gotta give it to MB...

Here's another view:



And with my switching lead and hot wire going through to the new fuse panel I installed under the floor:

 

awesome tip about the nipple ill soon be adding 2 more amps and the hole buy the brake booster is about full now with 2 amp cables this will help me get 2 more in!!!!! thanks for the pics!!!!

 

A couple suggestions:

Bring a primary through the firewall (8-10ga wire) with at least a 30-amp circuit breaker immediately between the battery and the lead. Inside the firewall install a auxiliary fuse panel or two.

Draw your power from the fuse panel. This reduces the number of leads going through the firewall and puts circuit protection on the primary in case it shorts somewhere between the fuse panel and the battery.

Even if your fuse for your device trips, hot power to the primary can still burn your car to the ground if it is not protected. The more you have running through the firewall, the more risk you introduce.

I put two auxiliary fuse panels in - one switched with the key (using a relay) and one that is "always on". Power for both comes from the battery through the circuit breaker and then distributed inside the firewall to the panels.

Here's the circuit diagram:

Parts list is on my site (click here)

 

now thats a batman setup!

 

How did you draw the diagram? is there software for this and if so were did you get it from?

Thanks.

 

There are lots of packages with which the drawing can be created. For this one, I used a simple image editing program (Paint Shop Pro), but for most of my work, I use Visio Professional. It has electronics templates that would make the drawing even more compliant with trade standards. I didn't think this circuit was complicated enough to warrant that. The images embedded in the drawing are reduced copies of the product marketing images.

Just sketch it out on paper to get the connections and organization figured out then draw it in the program. This is the final drawing; there were three or four versions done before I got it to this stage.

For example I had forgotten that the circuit breaker belonged close to the battery; I originally had two primary leads going to the two fuse panels and opted instead to use one and daisy-chain the power from the unswitched panel to the terminal on the relay of the second, saving me running two wires, and using only one circuit breaker to manage both. Of course this puts the total power allowance at half the capacity of the fuse panels (gated by the circuit breaker) but since I don't have any heavy draws, this isn't a problem and keeps me from overloading the panels later.

 

Thanks for the info.