I've been looking into replacing my amp for a little while - low sound on the passenger side and I've seen where this seems to be a common problem. So in researching this forum I've come across a wealth of information that has been very helpful. And confusing.
So it will probably be easiest to swap out the amp and head. The factory head is a 6 channel, but I can't find any info on the factory amp, but I assume that it must also be a 6 channel.
So I'm looking for a comparable system. Both Alpine & Blaupunkt have been mentioned on other posts, but I haven't found them with 6 channels. Nor have I been able to find the recommended model on ebay.
Any suggestions as to what a nice workable solution might be at a reasonable cost would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

Hi,

the stock amp is a 6 channel amp which produces 6x22 watt.
2x22 watt RMS goes to the front system
4x22 watt RMS goes to the 2 subwoofers, which are double coil speakers.

Double coil means that each sub has two coils at 4 ohm.
You can wire them as one 2 ohm coil.
And by doing that you only need a 4 channel amp that is able to support 2 ohms.

If you plan to to use the stock speakers i wouldn't use an replacement amp that produces not much more than 4x70 RMS watt. Else it's possible that you blow the speakers easily

If you want to change the stock amp, please consider that it has a simple buildt in processor and a crossover network for the subs. So it wouldn't sound better by just replacing the amp – you'll have to find the right settings and i would recommend a head unit with a built in EQ and Crossover for the sub.

If your stock amp is o.k. i would recommend to replace the head unit only with a self adjusting processor head unit and put some tweeters on the dash. We've done that with an Alpine HU and an Alpine PXA-H100. The Tweeters are amplified by the HU amp. Sub and TMT are amplified by the stock amp.

Regards
Markus

 

Lot of misinformation there.


The stock head is two channels.
The stock amp is four channel, but wired as two channels.
The amp right front and sub inputs are both connected together to the head right output. Same with the left side. The front and subs can be separated by running another set of wires from the amp to the head.

The front speakers, mid and tweeter, are wired together in parallel. The subs are dual coil, but the coils are wired in series.

 

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Diagram one confirms that there are four amp inputs. Front and sub inputs are wired together to one head unit output. As I stated.

Diagram two confirms that the tweeter and mid fronts are wired in parallel. As I stated.

So that leaves diagram three as the only contention. This diagram shows a powered sub (built in amp) woofer unit, with a +/- audio and +/- power. This has been discussed and proven false many times on this forum, at least for US cars.

The four ohm dual coil subs can be either wired in parallel for a two ohm total, or wired in series for an eight ohm total.

Nice picture. There is actually a German Chrysler forum? Hope it only covers Crossfires and Vipers.

So if the picture is correct, you are right that it is a six channel amp, with only four inputs and there is a separate amp for each of the four sub coils. The Analog Devices chip on the amp is a DSP which would handle the crossover. Makes more sense than the powered sub as shown in the wiring diagrams and makes more sense than anything else that has been posted here over the years.

Wished I had looked a little closer when I had mine ripped apart.

Sorry Markus if I offended.

Kurt

 

Thanks Marcus -
I knew the head was 6 channel - it's stated in the owners manual. But I couldn't find anything on the amp, and most of what I've read didn't make sense. So why are most people seeming to be replacing their systems with 4 channel heads & amps? What wiring configuration would work best with a 4 channel to run subs, tweeters, & the door speakers?
Thanks again
John

 

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Hey Markus -
That's some great information. I'm looking at installing a Blaupunkt Memphis MP66 4 channel head & most likely an Alpine PDX 4.1. So I'll be going to a 4 channel system all around. And the Alpine will fit in the stock location.
The problem isn't the fader, I've checked that. Corrosion or a connection problem should cause some static, I think, or no sound at all rather than just a barely audible sound. No capacitors, and not likely a blown speaker because it's the entire right side. And through researching on this forum, it seems as though this isn't an uncommon problem with these factory amps.

My goal is just to have a nice sounding system. Playing MP3 is a bonus. I don't want to spend a gazillion dollars on this either.

Thanks Again
John

 

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I have the Blaupunkt, but not the amp yet. But it's not a PDX F4 that I was looking into - it's a PDX4.1
The car is an MT. Here are the specs on the HU:
Key Features Specifications
Oversized diplay offers three line layout with full-color
Full color & Multi-line TFT display
USB input for connection to USB flash drive
SD card slot to play standard SD cards with up to 2 GB storage capacity
Motorized, Detachable faceplate for theft protection
DigiCeiver digital AM/FM tuner - 18 FM / 6 AM presets
CD-R/ CD-RW Compatible
MP3 playback from CD-ROM and CD-R/RW, USB flash drive and SD cards
50W Max power / 25W RMS x 4 channels
DEQmaxEX 6-band parametric equalizer
Shock-proof memory

I can make the ring match the dash, but the face is primarily silver.
Any suggestions are more than welcome.
Thanks again
John

 

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Still wrong. The head is 2 channel and the amp is 6 channel. That is why people are installing 4 channel systems. The stock system has no front to rear fader or sub control, because it is only 2 channels.

 

Hi Marcus -
Thanks again for the info. I've checked the internet & ebay for US & Canadian availability (I'm Canadian) on the amps that you've recommended and I don't see their availability here.
I'm pretty much locked into the Blaupunkt HU - bought & paid for. The larger amp size possibility due to the MT is interesting, though, and may open up more possibilities for me.
You've been a wealth of help here and I really appreciate it. If you have any other insights or information just pass it along. I'm grateful.
John

 

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Wow - Markus!
You're really going above & beyond on this. Looks like the MRP-F300 may have an overheating problem, though.
Price wise it looks like the PDX 4.1 comes up on ebay once in a while, so it may be a better deal than list. But you mentioned the PDX-F4 - is it just a newer version of the 4.1?
Thanks again -
John

 

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Thanks again Markus. I have a little time to put this together, and will use the information that I've learned from you.
John