I've been putting off installing my camera, because I'm not sure where to run the wires. I've read there's a grommet somwhere low in the trunk, but pulled the lower sheilds back, and didn't see anything.

Well, while replacing rear turn signal bulbs tonight I noticed the gromets for the rear side markers. Both of which were out of the hole. It would seem I could run the camera wire through the hole in the bumper cover behind the license plate (got a cheap plate mount for now) down into the bumper cover and over to the passenger side marker light, and run the wires in through that grommet. Then I've read there is a passage through the rear bulk head where I can run the wires on up to the head unit. Apparently there isn't much worry of water coming through these holes, since neither of my grommets were in the holes. They are now, though...

Any reason this wouldn't work?

I also found a mouse nest in the driver's side behind the rear wheel well. Apparenlty it wasn't there very long. I didn't find any droppings, and the nest didn't look very used. BTW, there is a lot of room in there should I need to find a home for something...

 

Obviously the mouse came to the same conclusion, your lucky you did not find a whole subdivision in there. Mice crap everywhere but in their nest, so do not sound disappointed, look in the glove box.

 

I ran my cable up into the hatch and mounted the camera to the left of the latch. Only need to remove the under panel in the hatch (one screw and several pops and you are there). Thread the wire through the gromet and ruber hose and you are into the car at the headliner. From there you an either run the yeadliner to the front and down the support at the windshield, or bring the cable to the floor and run under the carpet.

 

I have been thinking of buying a "Blue tooth" backup camera to use through my cell phone. This looks like it is easy. Just wire camera to backup lights, transmits to cell phone only when in reverse, no other wires to run. Has anyone else tried this lately, think someone tried it in past.

 

Bluetooth would be a nice option for my truck, but I prefer something a little more permanent for the Crossfire. I'm planning on tearing into this Wednesday.

 

Im doing this as well, I just got all my supplies for Christmas so im ready to go. Any pics would be greately appreciated.



Dave

 

Same problem here, got reverse camera as a present, but don't feel much for pulling the car appart for a camera.

 

Well, didn't get a chance to install the camera yet. Hoping maybe this weekend. It may get pushed off if I get brake parts bought in time though. I'll be sure to take a bunch of pix whenever I get to it. Spent the last week or more driving the wife's van with a factory backup camera, and really wishing I had mine.

 

GOT IT! and it was actually easier than I thought it would be. Ran the wires over and in through the passenger side marker light grommet. Will post pix later.

 

Awesome thanks!! Where did you solder the thin red and black wire to for power. Im not having success.

 

Well, I cheated, and just used T-taps for the power connectsions. The connection is inside the cab, and I don't like making things too permanent. However, I did have to solder on extensions for the power cable. What came with the camera wasn't even long enough to make it inside. My solder joint sits, about an inch outside the grommet.

Quick run down here. I took the tail light out. It's not necessary, but very easy, and makes the job easier.



Required:
1. Small fish tape
2. T20 Torx
3. 10mm socket
4. Electrical tape
5. WD40
6. Philips screwdriver
7. T-taps
8. Dielectric grease (for inside of all connections and tail light seal)


1. Remove the license plate and passenger side tail light access panel. Just kinda pull up/out on the bottom.

2. Remove tail light. Unplug the connector, and remove the 3 nuts. IIRC they are 10mm.


3. Pull the grommet for the passenger side marker light inside the cab. Then reach through the hole and push the marker light housing out of the fender. There is a spring clip towards the rear, and a tab/slot in the front. I didn't get a picture of the back of the housing, but I think there are some floating around here. Just remove the bulb socket, and set the lens aside. Removing the bulb will help prevent breaking/losing it.

4. Run the fish tape through the small hole behind the license plate over to the marker light hole. It will take a bit of finesse, but really not too bad. Tape your two wires to the fish tape, and pull them back through the license plate hole. If you've never used a fish tape, just tape the wires a few inches back from the connectors, so they pull backwards and don't get stuck inside. Take your time. You may need to gently pull back on the wire to keep from getting caught. Once through, tie the wires to the trunk latch. This will give you enough wire to work with later, and keep you from accidently pulingl them back through.




5. Pull your two wires through the marker light grommet. Make sure they're facing the right direction. I found pulling the grommet down close to the bulb (off the wrap) and spraying a little WD40 made it a snap. Now pull the wires to just a little snug, pop the grommet back in, replace the bulb/lens and snap the housing back in the fender.




6. Make your connections for the power. I made my connections on the tail light vs the harness. Tail lights can be replaced much easier if ever need be. Brown wire is hot, and I used the black wire leading directly back to the main harness. I used T-taps, because they're easily removed to remove the light and/or wiring. You will probably also need to make a connection for the head unit or screen's activation wire. I tapped the hot wire of the camera, right before the connection to the brake light.

 

Nice writeup, and great photos. I just rated this thread 5 stars.

 

7. Move the passenger seat forward, pull up the door sill. Pull straight up inside/outside towards the front, then move back. There are just four push clips holding it. Next move the fabric covered seal/windlace (Just pressed on). Using the T20 torx remove the three small screws holding the metal trim at the top. Then carefully pull the plastic around the seat belt up away from the carpet. Then pull the carpet foward.

8. You should now see a few wires feeding forward through the bulk head. Lift the foam piece and run the fish tape through. You need to keep it angled up/left. You can then reach through the tail light hole, tape off your signal and activation wires, and pull through the bulk head.


9. Route the wires down along the rocker panel, inside the carpet up to the front kick panel. Remove the front seal/windlace, and cabin filter access panel (two philips head screws on the rear (closest to you) of the panel). place the wire along the edge of the kick panel, behind the glove box, then there is a small hole into the area behind the stereo. Best way is to start feeding the wire in, then reach back behind the stereo. Replace all the trim, make your connections on the back of the head unit, replace tail light (Make sure to clean the seal and body where it mates. Good idea to lube the seal at this time. I generally use dielectric grease).

10. Mount your camera, replace license plate, and go back up!


I'm not real crazy about the look of my camera mount. I used a license plate bolt mount, and it's kind big and bulky. The wife thinks it will blend in with a black plastic license frame, so I'll try that. I also have the connectors taped to the back of the plate. I need to get some shrink wrap on them, and push them through the hole behind the plate. I was afraid they would disconnect and drop inside the bumper without the shrink wrap if I tried to pull them back out.

 

Thanks!
...

 

Great write up! Step 6 is exactly what I needed. I'm going to tap into the brown wire for power.

picture host

 

Brown wires are grounds, no power in them.

 

Thank you for your headsup.
Where do you suggest I draw power from? I'd like to get power from one of those wires. I will then use brown to ground the camera.

 

Yes, that is usually true, but in the case of the tail light wiring harness I think you will find that the black wires are the ground wires.
I have a harness in my garage, all the black wires tie to the bulb sleeves, not the bottom contact buttons.

 

I do not think that is true, power usually goes to the bottom contacts. This is true in your house wiring for safety reasons.
I am quite sure that any applicable DIN standard does not allow for any deviation in this. Otherwise why have a standard?

 

Well Dave, I sure hate to bust your bubble, but in this case I am right, you are wrong.
There are 3 bulb sockets in the harness, a black one, an orange one and a gray one.
The black one is obviously for the tail/stop light as it has 2 bulb connectors, the other 2 only have one.
THE BLACK WIRE RUNS FROM PIN 1 OF THE HARNESS CONNECTOR TO ALL 3 BULB SOCKETS AND MY TRUSTY METER SHOWS IT IS CONNECTED TO THE BULB SHELLS IN ALL 3 SOCKETS.
Guess the Germans just wanted to mess with the DIN standards people on this.

( power DOES go to the bottom contacts on all bulbs, the brown wire is the power wire for the gray socket )