I read that some people replace the rear subs with some 6.5” kicker (or something) but what about bigger? What is in that divider between the driver and “trunk”? Can a handy guy with some sealant and a sawzal make a bit of a custom enclosure for some shallow mount 10’s or 12’s? I see the bracket and everything but could I just cut a bigger hole and add a bigger sub? I want to replace all the speakers as I think that if you go with 1 aftermarket part you might as well go all the way. They have some incredible products (from Infinity) on the market now.


The only thing I have changed so far is the HU (Kenwood Model: KDC-BT652U)

 

B werry werry cawful... He he he, there be a fuel tank in there!

 

+1 to what GG said .....


TANK. Fuel. Required: 001 $3635.00

IF there is any car left to repair, and IF there is anyone left to do it after you sawzall into the old tank, then there goes your income tax refund ...........

 

I have a somewhat related question, which is mainly answered with the word fuel tank. (06 Roadster Limited) That being said, is it worth it to put a subwoofer in the trunk? Or is there too much between the trunk (even with the top up) for the bass to permeate through? I have an infinity basslink that's been my #1 accessory in my other car, and, even with the capacitor modification, the deep bass from the subs doesn't come out as much as I'd like, the thump thump of bass drums/beat, yes. I know my fuzzy winter seat covers aren't helping the issue, but even in the summer, I'd like to have a buffer between the seats and my potentially sweaty parts, so I may make custom terry cloth covers. I asked this fall about upping the volume, so I still have to make that change, but figure I will have that done if/when I have my sub installed. Thoughts?
~ARose
06 Aero Blue Limited Roadster, 27K+ miles now..

 

deleted post

 

To the OP, you can not fit 10" or 12" subs in the wall, nor would you want to, because free air subs sound like garbage and there is NO way to boild any sort of enclosure in there. Your best bet is to get shallow mount subs and do a false floor or something similar for the trunk and hide them there and still be able to use the trunk.

I have heard a cervertible with all new speakers, amped up, and a single 10 or 12 in the rear, sounded AMAZING. You might not get all the bass, but it will be much better...

 

That's what I needed to know (BOOM). I knew there was something there just never thought of the gas tank until now and it makes sense. Guess the subs are going in the rear. So if I replace the front speakers with some, say, infinity kappas or something would it be better to run them off the deck power with x-over box (included) or off the factory amp (x-over box or no box?) and then just use my deck pre-out to run a mono-amp and subs in the rear?

OR

A 4chan amp to run the fronts and subs and leave the factory stuff alone?

 

Personally, if you do not have the equipment already, I would go the route I went with my last car - sounded amazing. I replaced the front set and rear subs all with Kappa components, and ran them off a 4 channel and a monoblock for the sub amp. Since you have a roadster and space is limited, I would get a nice 5 channel (4 channel + 1 sub, typically like a 75x4 + 150x1) or something similar and replace the factory amp, all the speakers, and add a nice single 10" or 12" driver in the trunk. Should be PLENTY of volume for top down cruises...

Just my $0.02

 

That sounds like a good idea but wouldn't the rear componets be muffled to much?

 

The factory brackets kind of hold them sideways, I made custom brackets that held them facing out, towards the back of the seats. I then mounted the tweeters near the seatbelt pass through for better imaging. Keep in mind, mounting the midrange drivers behind the seats will not really muffle anything, because it is mostly low tones coming from those drivers, the tweeters above handle the other, higher tones, if your X-overs are set correctly...

 

Ahh yes.... The hampster is now awake and running on his wheel in my brain. I'm going to do some looking and will post something with my progress. I have so many ideas....lol

 

Just wanted to throw this in... JL Audio makes a 13" subwoofer which is super shallow. In fact I have seen a previous owner who had 2 of these in the stock sub locations (ofcourse with plenty of mods) and I personally own one of these subwoofer (except its in the rear). So it is indeed possible (and not just with 13" shallows!), but it just depends on how much work, time, and money you want to put into the project.. personally that sounds like one hugeee headache. I agree more with the "buy a new amp and speakers"...

 

cmberges, where are you located?

Im pretty picky when it comes to audio. Im not a bass freak, but I like a great overall. My setup is: Stock door mid's, stock subs, front to rear seperation, KS25 componet tweeters, base model kicker pro-comp 10's in a ported box, and a (overpowering) kicker 1500.1 amp wired at 4 ohm's so it's really only 750.1.... Like I said, I wanted a overall great sounding setup and eventually Ill add components to the doors but thats it, and even that isnt needed IMHO.

 

I'm in ST.George UT and I am the same, looking for that great sound with the hi's hitting the hi's and lows that sound good to me and not the car sitting next to me. I'm also just wondering if some alpine type-s or infinity kappas will sound better than what is stock?

 

Please dont ask me about alpine lol.... IMHO I would never replace anything in this car with infinity because that is what it came with stock. Newer and a better model it will sound better but honestly I will never buy anything but kicker ever again... just my .02 .... My experience has been way too good with kicker.

 

Really? Well I'll have to look at them, they just seem kind of middle range of the top sellers but I'll have to give them a look. I was thinking about these but there not componet (would it matter)?

Focal Polyglass 165 CVX
or
Focal Access 165CA1 SG
or
Focal Access 165A1 SG

 

The 165A1 SG is a component, and components are the way to go. I dont know or have experience with the brand so I cant comment on that but my question is, what are your goals ultimately? Decent High, mid and low... Good, great.... Just high and mid... What are you wanting?..... Im letting you know right now all I will give advice for is kicker, they have cheap decent, ok priced good, and expensive insane on pretty much any size or type of speaker.

The reason I am so pro kicker is the fact that my 2 subs started with my friend, went to me, went to 5-8 other people (not really sure) and back to me in a period of 5-6 years and are still hitting like day 1. Some of those people had good audio knowledge, others didnt and abused them like no other. 1 sub has failed since, and was immediately replaced with the exact same.. The box is still in fantastic shape and the amp(s) was/were changed every owner. Im telling you, kicker is the way to go. On top of that, my kicker component tweeters RMS higher than my subs and actually carry a good bit of mid in them (for tweeters).

Those arent the only subs I have had either, I had P2's, P3's, Xplod's, Pioneer somethin's, MTX's, Memphis.... The longest lasting were the Memphis 12's, and I got about 1 year out of them at matched RMS.

 

Forgot to add that the sub that failed was dropped, one of my friends that removed it to look at it dropped it and the magnet was shifted.

 

Can I wire the Focal Access 165A1 SG to the factory amp? Don't get me wrong but the fronts sound good but the Focal's sound GREAT. I'm just not sure if I need to bypass the factory amp or not. I would just like to know in advance (instead of just trying it) if I need another amp.

Ideas/Suggestion?

Thanks

 

No need to bypass.