Big 3 wire upgrade
So I run a lot of extra stuff in my car, 2 12's @ 800-1200 watts and neons underneath the car and in the truck which is another 100 watts.
I did some research and did a big 3 upgrade with 4awg wire since it was only $3/ft at the local shop and they didn't have loose 2 or 0 awg.
I ran an extra wire from the battery negative to chassis and an extra engine ground to the battery negative.
I haven't gotten around to it yet but I was going to run an extra positive wire from the alternator to the battery.
So now when I drive off the engine kinda lags, I did a throttle reset and it still happens with the wires hooked up.
I have dianosed that the extra engine ground wire is causing the throttle to mess up. Is there a certain spot I should have this wire hooked up to? Right now I just have it hooked up to a bolt on the valve cover.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
I did some research and did a big 3 upgrade with 4awg wire since it was only $3/ft at the local shop and they didn't have loose 2 or 0 awg.
I ran an extra wire from the battery negative to chassis and an extra engine ground to the battery negative.
I haven't gotten around to it yet but I was going to run an extra positive wire from the alternator to the battery.
So now when I drive off the engine kinda lags, I did a throttle reset and it still happens with the wires hooked up.
I have dianosed that the extra engine ground wire is causing the throttle to mess up. Is there a certain spot I should have this wire hooked up to? Right now I just have it hooked up to a bolt on the valve cover.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
I felt the need to let loose some juice and studied the Big 3, and quickly realized it isn't so much necessary. The Alternator to Starter and Battery is 1/0 --- Literally no need to replace or add to. The battery ground to chassis I added a 5 gauge. Other than that, I put new terminals and cut back the coroded ends and it helped my flickering lights quite a bit. After that I put a 1 farad CAP in and no more flickering at all. - Edit on CAP, it's a 1 farad but probably only good for .5 (you have to be careful on claim vs performance of those things.
My tweeters are 175W RMS each and my 2 ten's are 150W RMS each. So 650W continuous. I would get a good CAP and call it a day.
Last edited by sk8erjosh09; Mar 5, 2013 at 06:49 PM.
Huh?
Speak up.
Edit: the wire grounded to the valve cover is a honda thing. this is not a Honda
Last edited by Beaner; Mar 5, 2013 at 08:05 PM.
I find it interesting that:
"I have dianosed that the extra engine ground wire is causing the throttle to mess up. Is there a certain spot I should have this wire hooked up to? Right now I just have it hooked up to a bolt on the valve cover."
I would like to measure that with a scope.
"I have dianosed that the extra engine ground wire is causing the throttle to mess up. Is there a certain spot I should have this wire hooked up to? Right now I just have it hooked up to a bolt on the valve cover."
I would like to measure that with a scope.
Perhaps someone upgraded this before you? The service manual shows the pos.&neg. leads as 2AWG. Stepping up 2 sizes (from OEM to 1/0) is a nice upgrade.
Apparently someone did, I had to extend it once I got the V8, from the alternator to the starter and bought 1/0... It was the exact same size as what I bought. It all looks stock though, so I just assumed...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Wisconsinfdcrossfire
Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and Differential
3
Sep 20, 2015 10:04 PM
bobbie
WTB - Items/Parts Wanted to Buy - Archive
5
Sep 12, 2015 12:49 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)



