Yes, onehundred80, I'm starting a second thread for this since I don't want to button up my door panel until I have an answer. That would be the correct answer based on experience.

The woofer and tweeter are a given. However there is only one set of connectors for the IN.

However, there are both base and treble cables coming from each amplifier.

So what is the best/proper way to wire the crossover?

Biba

 

The crossover separates the frequencies internally, you are only going to have 1 full range input into a crossover. That is its job.

 

Thank you, but the question is Which Input?

Biba

 

The door speaker amplifier output is a single channel that is wired in parallel to the factory tweeter and woofer to deliver a net 2ohm impedance load to the factory amp to deliver 40 watts. With the aftermarket crossover you can place it in the kick panel there and grab the wires and run separate wires to the tweeter and crossover, or you can find a spot in the door and choose which ever lead is easier to grab (normally the tweeter since it runs on the door vs in it. Tape off the other lead so you don't short it out. done.

 

Infinity, now we're getting somewhere!. After reading your post I was still dubious but after cutting away enough of the yucky covering for the In tweeter wires, they were the same colors as those for the woofer. I have to say I was fully expecting another set of colors for the tweeter wires, but I'm now satisfied. Thank you.

Off to see which is + and which is - and button the door up.

I'm going to throw this out, but since removing the door panel, unless I shut off the dome light, it is on, even with the doors closed.

Is there something in the door that ties in with the dome light? I don't want to button the door up only to find the dome light situation persists.

Biba

 

Crossover, at your service 24/7.

Except for the design engineer who decided to mount a semi-permanent impedance in the way not realizing I, among others, would want to mount their crossover (XO?) so that it can be seen in the peek hole - it works out pretty well.

The XO has two small strips of 3M badge mounting tape holding it on.

For the trial run to see if the low frequency speaker was now solved, I used a CD of Renee Fleming's. Should you recognize the name, I'll just add that I pretty much hate opera, but for this CD, she lowered her voice two octaves and sings normally. Ergo, no screeching - though she screeches much better than most.

Biba

 

Yes and no. There is a small plastic trim piece near the door latch that must be put back as that is the strike pad for the pin switch. If it is not installed the pin does not have anything to push it in when the door is closed.

 

to clarify..... the two parallel channels running to the door.. One gets taped off and the other goes to the input of the crossover. ( why not connect both to input0?} One line out goes to new tweeter, one line out goes to new woofer.

 

The factory amp going to the doors are a single channel. Inside the door the factory harness splits into two (one for the tweeter and one for the woofer).

The aftermarket crossover only needs one input and provides separate outputs each with their own crossover section thus you can't use them with the same approach as the factory system.

In a nutshell the factory amplifier contains digital filters that can be manipulated to act like a crossover. What happens is the drivers in the door are measured for their response, the right filters are identifies to limit the upper and lower ranges of the woofer, the tweeter has a capacitor attached to it to roll off the midrange and bass from it. All in all it can deliver better sound this way because the designer can address the effect of the car's interior after the design.