Did you finally make sense of the information sent your way? With a new HU and built in frequency crossovers you could remove the capacitors from the door speakers and adjust at the HU. I'm guessing your going to run the extra speaker wire for the rear channels and tie them in at the amp input to rear subs?

 

I dropped off the print off to the guys at Auto Audio in Raleigh. They are planning to use a Land rover adapter with RCA cables that is going plug and play to the head unit. They are going to use the stock amp for now, and we will see how the original door speakers sound. If I am not satisfied, we are going to replace the door speakers with Infinity set up and a 200W Alpine amp.

 

Which unit did you order

 

So your going from a 240 watt amp to 200.. umm.. okay. I trust this head unit has 4v RCA output.. otherwise I can tell you now they will tell you "need a new amp" time. I ran the extra wires to my amp for front - rear fader control and added an amplified bass cannon to my trunk and am good with the sound. Wife's car got what you are doing.. only ran from HU speaker leads and she is good with it.. (so I'm good on her car too.. LOL)

 

wait.... the stock amp is 240 (4) channel? That's good to know. I was under the impression that it was much less power. Also moving to a 4 ohm Amp from Alpine.

Guy said I would have about 90RMS out of the new infinity speakers I plan to put in the door.

Again, we are going to try the stock amp first. The gist of all my readings say, one channel per door, and 2 channels bridged and wired (correct me if I am wrong because I am truly learning on this thread as we chat) parallel to get 2 ohm proper from the pair of Dual Coil 4 ohm subs I picked up for $30 total. I was trying to save money somewhere and they appear to be excellent quality and fairly basic materials. The Pyles look good too, even though you wont' see them. I am quite happy with that purchase as I have them hooked up to the stock system right now (capacitors still in place in the door).

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=Chry...ie7&gws_rd=ssl


So easy.. even a Caveman can do it.. LOL

 

RADIO. AM/FM CD W/NAV & CD-CTRL. [RB3,YAB], [YAB]. Radio for CHRYSLER CROSSFIRE (2005 - 2007). #05140749AA

I can't believe no one has snapped this generous offer up at a savings of $988.00 !!!!!!!

 

Grabbed some infinity 6.5's for $70 at best buy. They were marked improperly and I couldn't resist. I was going to do these last but I couldn't pass up the $35 savings.

 

If you installed the capacitor mod in the doors, then you need to make sure your subwoofer will carry the frequencies below that cutoff.. Else you will have "Holes" in your music.

Not sure why you need a fader unless your adding a four channel setup.

The factory amp works well with our 2 ohm speakers in the doors and dual coil subwoofers in the back (wired in parallel as two ohms) - you go to 4 ohm speakers and sensitivity and max power go way down.

Either buy and install a complete balanced and tuned system or make trade-off and compromises.

 

The stock amp is rated at 240 W total or around 60W per channel. And that's under optimum performance with the balanced components. I would venture to say in truth it's around 40W - 45W per channel.

The two rear (subwoofer) channels are not bridged together, they're both independent channels. The voice coils at the subs are paralleled to create a 2 ohm load (more power but with twice the weight (extra wires) on the speaker motor)

Your speakers and tweeters need to have a crossover made to match their performance. If the woofer's freq response begins to fade before the tweeter's begins to rise the music tone will be flat in that area of the crossover.

It's all tough language to understand, but once you do, you can look at the specifications for each set of components and make sure they match - or you can hope to get lucky....

 

My advice is to go ahead and replace the entire system. It can be done on a tight budget. I sourced JBL GTO components on Amazon for under 75.00, a Precision Power Phantom 900.4 4 ch class D amp (sonicelectronix has them currently for 169.99 with free shipping). The amp is under the passenger seat - its a close fit but works well. and SWS earthquake shallow mount 6.5 subs for the rear. they fit into the factory baskets with a little modification. If they are still available the pair is about 100.00. All this pulled together nicely with the Blaupunkt HU that was in my car when I bought it. Doing the install work myself the amp and speaker upgrades was less than 500.00 and I am very pleased with the result.

I completely understand your frustration with this, it took me several months to figure something out that fit my budget. The only thing I was not too thrilled with on my install is that I miscalculated that the amp would fit into the stock location. I am sure there is something suitable out there that will fit, if you go that route.

I am not too far from you ( in Greensboro) if you would like to meet up to see and hear my setup.

 

a) Gotta buy more stock in hearing aid companies
b) I just replaced the head unit with a Clarion M303 because I wanted the chrome bezel to match the crossie. Tolat proce was about U$200. Understand the Kenwood KDC-BT558U is a good choice also if you don't care. Volume over 50% is Too Much
c) WMAs via BT from my phone sound much better that that satellite company, about like the difference between FM and AM. 2500 songs in 14 GB provides a lot of choice. Nice thing about modern systems is you can choose by albulm and title scrolls on screen when playing.

At the start of 2012 all of my cars were dumb, if I wanted to answer the phone, I just pulled over. Now I just push a button. Started with the Jep but have retrofitted the XF, 90 convertible, and 70 toy (in glove box). 88 already has a CRT in the dash. Welcome to this century.

ps can see where some early cars may need speaker replacement if paper but my '07s sound fine (to the hearing impaired).

 

Hey Greensboro is close. I'd love to meet a fellow x fire enthusiast.

Currently on the Kenwood, stock amp, PYLE subs, and stock speakers with Caps. I love BT interface!

I need someone to direct my 4 channels so I can have fader control and bass controls separate from the door. 1 Channel to each door and 1 to each pair of coils on my subs, for a total of 4.

Otherwise, I'll be buying a new 4 chan amp.

I have infinity door speaker replacements at the house waiting for me to put them in.

pm me and I'll give you my number!

 

I guess we need to direct my channels. I'm using the stock wiring so I don't assume that they are wired in parallel. I was hoping the install company would have handled that. I could have bought an wiring kit and plugged the damn thing in. I am quite disappointed.

 

I didn't provide enough links and advice to run the wires from the HU to the amp with cut and splice instructions?

 

I gave him the print out.... he said.... we know how to do this already....

The kenwood has a ton of sound settings. I have been able to enrich the sound a bit but they didn't aspire to re-wire the old amp because they want me to buy a new one.

They have a 4 channel alpine picked out for me, but I think I could be happy with the stock unit had they done what I asked.

 

I was really feeling like trying to help you get the most from the system was just a waste of my time.. LOL.. You never mentioned "they didn't - wouldn't do it"..

 

Well, like I said. They are hoping to sell me an AMP. The manager, the tech, and I all discussed what we were going to try. The tech said if it were a 4 channel amp that the could wire the 4ohm subs. They just forgot or opted not too. Who knows?

 

Sounds like they decided to bail on it with hopes of selling you the amp and getting their installation fee. There is nothing hard about doing it.. and maybe about an hour of your time.

 

an hour of my time....... is the hard part! and whatever takes anyone else 1 hour... takes me 3 hours and thats before the Murphey's law effect. This has me paying someone else to only spend an hour doing it.