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This is not correct....
i just bought these and they measure 6.5”. Exactly the same as the stock speakers.
this photo shows stock speaker and Pyle speaker on next to each other. Exactly 6.5”.
Great speakers. Just hook up to existing speaker feed wires. Make sure you get the polarity correct on the speaker feeds. They are hard to see the + and - terminals on the Pyle speakers and it matters! the existing speakers have a broad and narrow spade connector and you can establish the polarity from the original speaker feeds. You'll like them with the OEM equipment.
Johnny, can you help me understand something. If the new Pyle speakers are wired in parallel (to make them 2ohms) then we only need 2 wires going to them. One positive and one negative. However our cars currently have 4 wires going to each speaker. I’m confused as to what wires are used to connect to the new Pyle speakers.
This is not correct....
i just bought these and they measure 6.5”. Exactly the same as the stock speakers.
this photo shows stock speaker and Pyle speaker on next to each other. Exactly 6.5”.
Just measured mine and they too are the same size as yours. So not sure what the deal is.
Hey Tom 3120. If I recall, the clip you have in the picture plugs into the basket, not the speakers, Two wires ( a harness in the basket) come from the basket to one set of + and - and 2 wires also come to the +and- for the other coil. Not quite sure what all the measuring is about, the speakers mount in the baskets and the wires plug in the speakers from the baskets. The baskets only have to be modified to make room for the magnet on the new speakers. When the speaker is mounted in the basket after making the appropriate relieves, plug the wires into the coils at the proper polarity, reinstall the basket, plug in the clip from the wire harness into the basket. You may have to relieve a few holes here on the new speakers and if I recall the circumference of the face needed a little massage, but it's pretty close, but not exact. Turn on the stereo and confirm the speaker is working. Complete other side the same way. Put it all back together. Put the top down and rock on. Just do it!
This is not correct....
i just bought these and they measure 6.5”. Exactly the same as the stock speakers.
this photo shows stock speaker and Pyle speaker on next to each other. Exactly 6.5”.
That is not correct.
The speaker is 6.6” diameter, it says so on the box and the tape shows the OEM is that.
The size is a nominal 6” diameter.
Last edited by onehundred80; Sep 17, 2019 at 12:10 PM.
Ok , so I got one new Pyle speaker installed tonight. I did as Johnny suggested and simply used the wiring harness that was currently on the basket. I hooked the positive wires from the old speaker and hooked up to positive on the new and same for negative wires. Remounted speaker in basket and remounted in car then plugged back in as it was originally plugged in. Now my question is....since factory speakers were 2 ohm speakers and the Pyle speakers are 4 ohm speakers...are the Pyle speakers still at 4 ohm since I used the wiring harness as it was?
I only have one speaker installed so far so its hard to tell the sound quality just yet.
I have been debating for two weeks about repairing my rear subs are replacing them,well after looking at the dual voice coil 4 ohm Pyle subs from Walmart .com for 23$ shipped I wasn't losing much.Speakers arrived and the install was tight but no mods were needed yes they are 4 ohm speakers an the stock subs are 2 ohm,I still used them and I am very impressed better and more solid bass than factory speakers so yes it was 23$ well spent .
I know this is old but I'm trying to replace mine too. So you didn't upgrade the amp or anything? How did you wire them in?
Johnny, can you help me understand something. If the new Pyle speakers are wired in parallel (to make them 2ohms) then we only need 2 wires going to them. One positive and one negative. However our cars currently have 4 wires going to each speaker. I’m confused as to what wires are used to connect to the new Pyle speakers.
Just bought door and rear speakers. How did you end up wiring the new speakers up behind the seats?
With some help I installed these yesterday The thin wood ring was to be able to set the speaker flush in the basket
We were unable to dremel out the areas the speaker wouldn't clear in the basket because it was right where the screws needed to go to hold the speakers in the baskets
We used 1/2 inch plywood but I suggest only using 1/4 inch plywood if it works
The 1/2 inch plywood set the speaker up just high enough that when installing the speakers/baskets back into the bulkhead wall they were against the gas tank
Longer screws will also be needed to attach the speakers after this mod
Also note: The OEM speakers are not marked with + and - on the connections but the wider connectors are the + (Positive)
Red and Gray wires are + (Positive) Green and Black wires are - (Negative)
Two years later and still rockin'. Also did the best stereo bang for the buck in the door speakers. Great original sound system, I have a roadster with navigation, only speakers I changed were the subs as in my original post.
I completed this installation. It was a little work with the Dremel but so worth it IMO. Also completed the best bang for the buck mod. Sounds great and so thankful for those who posted their experience and insight.
I completed this installation. It was a little work with the Dremel but so worth it IMO. Also completed the best bang for the buck mod. Sounds great and so thankful for those who posted their experience and insight.
Have you by chance upgraded the HU and done the 4 channel mod? If so does your HU have options to modify the bass for the front speakers? I ask because I’m wondering if the “best bang for the buck” mod is still necessary with an upgraded HU with 4 channel can lower the bass?
Last edited by Sussudio; Dec 19, 2021 at 08:16 AM.
So, I have the dual voice coil Pyle subs. A fundamental question remains after scouring this thread: is it better to wire both voice coils independently using the factory harness (recognizing the mismatch between the 2-ohm amp and the 4-ohm coils), or wire the coils in parallel and driving with just one of the two available channels? Or is it a wash? Has anyone tried both to compare?
I used the factory harness and they sound great. But I will say this: The modern day music that has exceptionally strong base runs shine in these subs. The older music doesn't have as strong bass runs. And you notice these speakers working best at a higher volume.
Last edited by Johnny Versatile; Dec 2, 2021 at 03:41 PM.
So, I have the dual voice coil Pyle subs. A fundamental question remains after scouring this thread: is it better to wire both voice coils independently using the factory harness (recognizing the mismatch between the 2-ohm amp and the 4-ohm coils), or wire the coils in parallel and driving with just one of the two available channels? Or is it a wash? Has anyone tried both to compare?
Watch this video. Use the factory harness. Make sure you get the + and - hooked up correctly.
Re: pyle rear speakers
