Awesome find Dave, never saw that post/video! When mine rot this vid will be invaluable. Thanks to the original creator AND Mr M, for posting it (and of course Dave for reposting it)!

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Reposting? Is that like double dipping?
Not that there is anything wrong with that, or is there?

 

Dave, are you always trying to find fault in a positive post about your wealth/breadth of information and resources..... No, it is not a case (implied or suggested) in any way of (how did you put it, double dipping?). It is just that you come up with sources twice apart, that to this day surprises me. Yes Dave, you continually surprise...


Your welcome!

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Yep, the video is great, but doesn't answer all the questions. Perhaps the second part would have, but it was never posted.

Attached is my detailed description subwoofer wiring, which includes the wiring all the way to the speaker terminals. (Consider it a draft for the moment.)

Note: The OEM Infinity speakers are said to be dual coil 2 ohm. However, using a DMM I got readings of 3 ohms across each pair of terminals on one of the speakers. Still need to check the other.

So, how then to connect the Pyles?

There are four wiring options for the dual voice coil Pyles:

1. Single: Drive only one voice coil (speaker load = 4 ohms)
2. Parallel: Drive both voice coils in parallel (speaker load = 2 ohms)
3. Series: Drive both voice coils in series (speaker load = 8 ohms)
4. Independent: Drive voice coils independently (2 speaker loads, each = 4 ohms)

Despite the weird labeling of pins 3 and 4 on the wiring harness, I assume that the OEM speaker wiring was independent, with each speaker load at 2 ohms.

As for me: My plan is to drive the Pyles in parallel.

Mounting. The Pyles don’t fit in the baskets. I am not comfortable mounting them at an angle with fewer than four screws. It might be possible to find spacers and longer screws so that the speakers could be mounted parallel to the shrouds, but it would be time consuming to find or fabricate the spacers. Also, there is the risk of not finding a workable solution. That leaves the option of cutting the baskets. My belief is that the fit problem is due to the wider diameter of the Pyle’s magnet and that a single V-cut in the speaker shroud will allow proper mounting. I don’t think that the depth of the speaker will be a problem, but cannot confirm until I do the cut(s).

My plan is mount and connect the Pyles over the weekend and will report back afterward.

 

One cannot use a DVM (DC) to measure speaker impedance. It must be under load and an AC signal (usually 1000 hz) used for the measurement.

A DVM will only show a vague approximation of what you are after in this case.

You have to trust the manufacturer for this spec. Or spend $250+ for a decent speaker impedance meter.

 

I have a question. I have the pyle speakers and I understand about wiring them in parallel but how do I wire in the leads from the amp? do I still wire all four or just two because I have paralleled the speakers. hope I am saying this right.

 

If you cut a hole into the speaker shroud, that will cause a loss of output due to phase cancellation issues from the back wave interfering with the front wave. The hole would have to be resealed with tape or something. I'm currently working on getting the Pyle subs to fit using a modified 1/2" spacer More to come.

 

These would probably drop right in but 100 bucks each is a bit much. https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...oofer--264-832

 

I have everything done, I just need to know how to hook them up to the incoming wires. anyone know?

 

They won't fit. the back will interfere with the basket.

 

Im going to try these soon. I will start a new thread on it for everyone because I have found that these particular speakers are mislabeled as 6” 600 watt subs or whatever but they are in fact 6.5” 60-100 watt with a 2.84” mounting depth. Stock depth is 2.75” so a tenth of an inch difference shouldn’t actually matter because i can see the slight gap between the stock speaker and the basket and I measured the mounting depth of the stock speaker at 2.84” as well.

 

Please give us an update. The stock subs are so bad.

 

This is what I had to do to make the Kicker sub woofers work. I would assume you would have the same problem I did with fitment due to the height of the speaker. Mine would not fit in the car or the speaker cover would not fit back on the speaker casing. Go to post #47.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...oadster-3.html

 

Speakers came in today, im gonna have to cut basket to clear the magnet, otherwise it would fit fine. When i finish cutting and install in car i will do the updated thread

 

I just received my dual voice 4 ohm Pyle subs and I am wanting to run them parallel to the stock amp. Could someone please explain to me on how to do that, as I am having hard time understanding how to do it. Thank you in advance.

 

Great speakers. Just hook up to existing speaker feed wires. Make sure you get the polarity correct on the speaker feeds. They are hard to see the + and - terminals on the Pyle speakers and it matters! the existing speakers have a broad and narrow spade connector and you can establish the polarity from the original speaker feeds. You'll like them with the OEM equipment.

 

Got'em… had for 4 years...no problems at full volume....Carl

 

I rewired each of the OEM speakers to the OEM amp and for the first time I heard the base speakers, turning up the base I think would damage my kidneys as the sound was painful. The fade control on my Kenwood radio was used to good advantage.

 

Does the video explain what I should do to run it parallel? Or am I making this more difficult than it needs to be? It seems the consensus here on the forum to get the most out of the 4 ohm subs to the 2 ohm amp, is to run it parallel? Sorry guys for the questions, just trying to be thorough. Thank you in advance, appreciate the patience.

 

I also just bought a set of these. I’ll start working on them this week to make them fit and wired up
Can’t we simply take the factory wires and plugs off the old speakers and put on the new Pyle speakers? This would allow them to simply “plug” into the existing wiring plug in the car.