can someone help me locate what the 50 amp fuse for (hydraulic unit traction) near the battery controls....or is for...what does it control...?

keeps blowing up and driving me crazy...

i suspect it keeps blowing out because there is a ground somewhere in the system....
does anyone have a wiring diagram for this fuse section...?

KEY..when this fuse pops , no electrical power and no crank no start , completely dead...
but as soon as i put a new 50 amp fuse , its ok until i start the car and 40 seconds later it heats up and pops......

i was driving down the street when this happened.....

help.....

 

Might not be much help, but here's the diagram :



Since it powers the underhood fuse panel, not surprise that the car won't start.
NOTE: The 'pulse module' is also in the same box as the underhood fuse panel, it is what runs the starter and times how long the starter is allowed to engage.

Maybe try removing fuses 17 & 18 ?

 

Those fuses would have blown if the trouble was down stream of them wouldn't they?
I think the problem lays in the Pulse Module, perhaps the starter motor is getting continuous power slowly heating the fuse up until it blows. Could the solenoid be jammed?
The 20 amp fuse powers a lot of systems, all lower in amperage.
I am not so hot on sparky stuff though so this is just a hunch.

 

^^^^ It is a 50 amp fuse, not a 20 amp fuse.
I agree that if the starter motor were getting continuous power, then either the Pulse Module or starter solenoid is FUBAR, but wouldn't there be a heck of a racket from the starter staying engaged, in other words, if the solenoid is hanging, then the starter is engaged to the flywheel also.
The 12v to the starter motor is unfused, direct from battery to solenoid to motor windings.

 

I was saying that the 50 amp fuse does not power the under hood fuse box, more systems run through the 20 amp fuse. The 50 amp fuses is only on the higher amperage systems, one 50 amp fuse powers the fan.
I do not say that the starter motor gets its power through the 50 amp fuse, the solenoid is operated through the iggy switch and through the pulse module, if the pulse module does not switch off the solenoid then heat is generated because the solenoid is forced to stay on, heating the pulse module. I said jammed but forced to stay in is a better term.
I have run out of ideas. But the problem lies in the starting system and nowhere else is my thought, probably the pulse module.

 

I've driven my car for the past 7 years with my 50 amp fuse unplugged. It disables the traction control and antilock brakes, that's all. Everything else works as it should.

 

Hmmmmmm.....
Schematic says pulse module should not work with that fuse removed.
Go figure.

 

What exactly does the "pulse module" do? Maybe mine doesn't work, and I don't even notice it.

 

If you can turn your key to 'start' and release it, but the starter keeps turning until the engine starts, then that is the Pulse Module doing that.
1. It ensures the engine starts.
2. It stops turning the starter after about 10 seconds if the engine does not start.

 

Ala, I believe that feature is only on the automatics. My car is a manual.

 

ala_fire is right. First time I ever cranked my auto. I thought my starter was stuck!

 

I'm thinking the 6 speeds don't have the pulse module, could be wrong.
Anyone with a manual want to report if they can just bump the key over to start and it starts ?
Went I went over to Georgia to fix Troy's 6 speed, his only started if I held the key in start until it was running.

 

No pulse module, I've had both and I thought the module was cool on the 6.
How soon we forget, especially when you get old. I forgot in 4 years and a bit.

 

His fuse is taking 40 seconds to blow, that implies a slight overcurrent, say 50-55 amps. You have TWO 40 amp fuses downstream to the brake controller - 40+40=80. So, something out of whack with the brake controller could cause a total current of well over 40 amps to the brake controller and yet NOT blow either 40 amp fuse.

WHile it could be something in the pulse module, I'd yank each 40 amp fuse out and put an ammeter in there and see what currents I have thru those two fuses. If I saw little current, then I'd try to verify the diagram (our wiring diagrams are not exactly 100% accurate) to be sure it HAS to be the pulse module.

Here is something to try: Start the car and YANK BOTH 40amp fuses and see what you get. If the 50amp won't blow, you KNOW your overcurrent is downstream of the 40amp fuses.

YOu've got to chase this like any other DC current issue.

 

I agree with ALA, remove fuses 17 & 18 in the under hood fuse block. This will eliminate the controller antilock brake circuit.

I would also investigate the underhood area for rodents gnawing on wires.

 

i will try it....thank you

 

i will try and apply this fix...will keep posted