I have a new 2006 crossfire and I’m trying to determine when to do the first oil and filter change. After reading numerous threads I was going to wait until the FSS tells me to change the oil. I’m happy to do this if the car has a fleece type filter.

Does any one know if a new car is supplied with a fleece type filter?

The car was manufactured in June 2006 with 2,000 miles.

Thanks for your help.

 

very doubtably...

 

My take:

I have no problem going 7K miles between oil changes using synthetic oil. It does not break down or lose viscosity.

The oil filter is another issue. It's job is to trap sediments and other crap in the oil. Lucky for us you can change the filter element without draining the oil. So I change my oil filter 3,500 miles after an oil change - and - when changing the oil. Synthetic oil may last longer - but the filter won't.

I prefer to use the fleece filter - but IMO if you change the filter every 3,500 miles - any filter will do. If you are only going to change the filter when you change the oil - well, I would not trust a paper filter in my engine that long.

 

My new 2006 HAD a fleece filter.

Two weeks ago, I performed the first oil change on my new 2006 Crossfire that I purchased in Aug. 2007. It had just over 1,000 miles when I changed the oil.

I always change the oil in my new cars soon after the break in period is reached. In the Crossfires case, this is 1,000 miles. The fact that my car sat unsold for over a year also played a role in my decision to change the oil. I always like to rid the engine of any contaminants/metal shavings that get generated during the break in period.

I did not reset the FSS counter when I changed the oil so that my second oil change will occur at the normal 7k-10k miles.

 

I like imabenz’s idea of doing an oil change now and then another at 7,000 miles.

Thanks for the help.

mbd

 

the SRT-6 has no break in oil used the car comes w/ mobil1.
i don't think car mfg's use Break In oil anymore.

i'm going to change mine at 3,000 got 1,400 right now
mine is an 2005 SRT-6.

bought a Merc /DC oil filter today part # 000-180-31-009.
$18.50 + tax.

it is fleece and looks like a paper filter with 2 bands around it.
also bought a electric oil pump.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...D=1007&i=71741

 

I also changed my filter, but my new filter was a cheap paper one. I didn't realize that the factory filters were fleece until it was too late.

I plan on replacing the filter with a fleece one as early as this weekend. Luckily, we can change the filters without losing too much oil.

Another thing of note was that there was a paint mark on the oil filter cap and the area that it screws into. I was able to reference the mark when I was tightening the cap. I was able to line up the paint marks by hand tightening only.

Having this visual clue made me confident that the cap was tightened enough. If the mark wasn't intended for that purpose, it sure was a good idea. If your Crossfire doesn't have a mark, I would add one before you remove the oil filter cap. That way when the cap is replaced you will have a pretty good idea that it is tight enough.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about having the dreaded paper filter in your car, as long as you plan on changing it around 3 to 4k. After all, we've been using paper oil filters ever since the dawn of man. Ok, maybe not that long, but at least the dawn of the industrial revolution.
As long as you don't use them for too long, there should be no deterioration problems with them.
Actually, I'm surprised that there isn't more of a problem with the fleece filters "shedding", especially when they're being used by some people for 7,500 miles.
I think what BrianBrave said about changing your filter every 3,500 miles if you're going to keep your oil in for over 7,000 miles is very good advice.

 

The Overton pump is backordered. Here is the one that I bought from Bass Pro:

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/st...=SearchResults

It worked great.

 

What was the visible condition of the oil you removed? Light colored? Dark?
- just curious.

 

It was light colored and just a little darker than new. In fact, it looked so good that I was wondering why I was changing it (I still would have changed it anyway for the reasons mentioned in my previous post). It was far from black.

I have yet to dispose of the oil, perhaps I should filter it through some panty hose and use it in my wife's car (an old painter's trick my father showed me - not on oil - He always filtered wood stain through panty hose).

I do recall seeing what appeared to be a couple tiny metallic items stuck to the filter. I still have the filter so I will take a closer look. It may have just been fleece fuzzy's or part of the mesh fleece covering on the filter itself . Either way it wasn't anything that concerned me due to the small size and small quantity. But now that the filter has sat for a couple weeks, I take a another look.

 

Thanks for the quick answer. The reason I'm asking is that I suspect the dealer I bought my '05 Roadster from misrepresented themselves in telling me they had changed the oil before delivery to me. The vehicle was filthy, the engine compartment was worse, and it took 2 hours to get the red clay out of the carpet.
My oil, on the dipstick, is dark enough that I suspect it is the factory original. These are the same bunch of yahoos that kept the car for two days, drove it up and down the interstate trying to duplicate my reported "it pulls to right at slow speeds!" It was returned dirty, and with a 3" long scratch in the drivers front rim.
I guess I'll wait 'til my K&N's arrive, change the oil myself, and never darken their door again.

 

Sorry to hear of your troubles. This weekend I'll get the part number that was on the filter I removed. I suspect that it might not be a Chrysler filter and thus have a different part number than the filter that your dealer installed as part of their "oil change". There have been a few oil filter threads that have listed various part numbers. We should be able to use these part numbers to find out which filters were on our cars. If the part number for the filter that is currently on your car matches the one I just removed, it would almost guarantee that they didn't change the filter.

I try and prevent any of my cars from going to the dealer. In fact the dealer wanted to wax my Crossfire before I drove it off the lot. I insisted that they only need to wash it. I can only imagine what a dealership wax job on a black car would have turned out.

There was also something rattling around one of my center air vents. I wanted to have it looked at but I decided that it just might be better for me to address it. I didn't want them ripping apart my dash/console and causing more rattles.

 

Thanks for the offer of assistance! Having the factory original oil filter in hand would make it pretty hard for them to defend themselves. I'll go with the K&N's until someone comes up with a better choice. I ordered them direct from K&N online store and they should be here Monday. Hope springs eternal...
I had a very interesting series of posts on another thread about my troubles, here's the link if you like greek f-ing tragedies.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...t=18909&page=2

Posts #19, #21 and #29 is an end to act 1...

 

Their excuse will be that they did in fact "change the oil". But they didn't change the filter.

As a new Crossfire owner, I have quickly realized that this forum is invaluable. Its clear that Crossfire owners are going to be continuously challenged.

The **** Crossfire owners have gone through is amazing. IMO its only going to get worse as Chrysler will have less and less enthusiasm for their unwanted stepchild, the Crossfire. I know, how can it get worse?

Its amazing the number of problems that have been resolved from info garnered from this forum after a dealership was unable to resolve it. There seems to be more Crossfire knowledge in the forum than in some dealerships. It makes me really doubt if I want to buy an extended warranty beyond my lifetime powertrain one. I know that they will stiff me at every turn. Have you ever read anything about how Chrysler deals with the sludging problems on their 2.7 liter V6s. They always blame it on the owner saying that they don't change the oil enough, even though the oil changes were done at Chrysler Dealerships at the factory recommended intervals.

 

Imabenz,

I would appreciate that very much. As I write this post, I'm on the phone with Chrysler Care (Edward)-nice fella'. He's doing two things for me:

1) Telling the new dealership in Columbus GA to order me airfoils for my car, and

2) transferring my free oil change to them. They are willing to do it.

It turns out that this may be a blessing, as the shop manager in this dealership is not only a/the Crossfire certified tech, he also owns one!

At least I'll (I hope) have a sympathetic ear in the future!

And yes, I know where in the dictionary to find "Sympathy"-
Between S**T and Syphilis.

I'll be watching, or you can PM me.

Max

 

maxcichon,

Checked the details of my oil filter this evening.

It is in fact a Mercedes Filter (it has the Benz logo on it).

Below are the part numbers etc. that are on the filter.

- 'Mann Filter'
- 'A112'
- '1840526'
- 'HU718/5'

 

Thanks again!

This aughta' be fun...

 

For those of you using the oil pumps, did you go through the dipstick or the filter housing? How did you ensure you got all the oil out? Also, did you change the filter o-rings? If so, what was the cost and partnumbers?

Thanks!

 

I use the TopSider but I removed all but an inch of the Tygon tubing; I left just enough to connect the Teflon tubing directly to the metal cap. Teflon can handle higher temperatures and will not collapse so I can get the engine up to running temperature so oil is hot and very viscosity is like water. Then I stick the Teflon tube down the dipstick tube until it hits the pan. Using this method I just shy of 8.5 quarts this weekend so I am satisfied with this method. Some say that pumping the oil doesn't remove the sludge and it may not, but after replacing the rear main seal on my Jeep this summer I can tell you that draining through the plug doesn't get all of it either; the pan had a good coating that took some scrubbing to clean off.

You should always replace the o-rings when you change the filter since, they come with the filter so there is no extra charge so I don't understand why you wouldn't change them, they do break down with heat. I suspect the o-rings are Nitrile (Buna-N, NBR) since they are cheapest and are very resistant to oil, their only downside is that they are only good to 250 degrees with a shorten life. If they were Silicone (VMQ) they would last much longer but cost more.

By the way if you do change the oil through the drain plug, which I may do at 20K, you should also replace the metal crush seal; they are like $0.25 each.

Regarding the argument of paper versus fleece if you change your oil every 3K-5K I don't believe it makes any difference. I bought ten of the paper filters when I bought the car and I change my oil once a year or 4K miles which every comes first (the car is in storage about 6 months a year). Once they are gone I' probably switch to the fleece but not until then.