Does anyone know for sure if the 5th O-ring in the Mann oil filter kit is intended to replace the crush washer on the drain bolt?

 

Chris, I don't think an "O-ring" is ever intended to replace a "crush washer".
Remember, a faulty "O-ring" brought down one of our space shuttles, so they have very specific uses.

 

Yeah, I didn't think so....but....seems like I read it somewhere on this forum a few months back. When I spoke with a couple of dealerships....they certainly don't put on a new crush-washer every time they do an oil change on a Crossfire. I couldn't even find a dealership that had any to sell to me.

 

Chris, the best I can figure is that they put it in as a spare. I just put them on the shelf in case I need one. There certainly isnt anyplace left to put it on the filter shaft.

MikeR

 

I think the extra o-ring comes with the filter to accommodate some Mercedes applications that uses the same filter, but also uses one more o-ring than we do.

 

It is used on the 3.5 engine.

 

O-rings are not to be used as replacements of crush washers. O-rings sit in a groove of a specific size to suit its application to limit the amount of compression of the O-ring.
Crush washers, usually copper, should be replaced every time they are moved after the initial torquing as they will never fit as well as they did originally. You most probably will get away with it but even a slight sign of oil around the drain plug means it is leaking. The leak may take some time to be evident, the first sign may be a spot of oil on your driveway days or weeks later.
Clean the plug and washer and install using the correct amount of torque (22 ft. lbs.) replace the plug if the thread or hex head are damaged.

 

I use Teflon tape with my drain plug to avoid any type of leak whatsoever.

 

It is not a crush washer on this plug. I thought it was so I ordered 10 of the damn things (part# 05073946AA). It is a plain FLAT copper washer.

 

The O rings on the Mann filter really were MUCH thicker than the ones that come with both the STP & Purolator filters.

Also ordered a set of 275/30/19s for the rear of my 07 from Tire Rack today.

In a confirmation e-mail Tire Rack says;

Tires are comprised of many layers of rubber, steel and fabric. Due to these different components, your new tires require a break-in period to ensure that they deliver their normal ride quality and maximum performance. As tires are cured, a release lubricant is applied to prevent them from sticking in their mold. Some of the lubricant stays on the surface of your tires, reducing traction until it is worn away. Five hundred miles of easy acceleration, cornering and braking will allow the mold release lubricant to wear off, allowing the other tire components to begin working together. It is also important to note that your old tires probably had very little tread depth remaining when you felt it was time to replace them. As any autocrosser or racer who has tread rubber shaved off of his tires will tell you, low tread depth tires respond quicker."Don't be surprised if your new tires are a little slower to respond (even if you use the exact same tire as before). Their new, full depth brings with it a little more tread squirm until they wear down.
NOTE: Be careful whenever you explore the capabilities of your new tires. Remember that every tire requires a break-in period for optimum performance.


PS; spoke to a guy with a 300 C ...3.5L engine I think....22K miles.....just had the engine replaced under warranty....said the antifreeze reacted with the aluminum & created a sludge...ist detected as no heat (core plugged). Wow...wonder how many more out there?

 

do not use the rubber o-ring in place of the drain plug crush washers. we ordered a box of the crush washers for you guys, we have them on our site at 2/$1. although fedex to get them to you far outweighs the price fo the washers, if anyone wants me to envelope and stamp them we can send them out much cheaper then fedex.

http://www.needswings.com/Product.as...3-f12bc22b90c7

 

Are they really "Crush-washers" , or just copper washers?

 

they are aluminum

 

Just a small point, are yours copper colored aluminum?
I know aluminum is used, often in banjos etc.

 

I have 10 of them and they look like Copper to me and do not crush.

 

If they don't crush what benefit would there be to using a new one every time you change the oil?

Brad, are yours OEM?

 

When tightened the soft copper/aluminum is crushed into the surface irregularities and seals the face joint, using it again means it has the old impressions in its surface and could leak through them. It is also harder because of the surface has been work hardened. It still might work but not as well as the first use. this would also apply to the crushable types like the old spark plug washers.

 

Yes Chris, OEM.

 

You can re-quench copper washers by heating to a cherry red with a small propane torch then letting cool on it's own. I've used this method on diesel fuel line's ext. with good results.
Bill,

 

True, but you should refinish the face as well.