As some of you may know, I have been having some issues with my BAS/EPS and ABS lights on the dash. As you can imagine, I have no ABS or TC and my spoiler is up constantly.

I am thinking/hoping it is one of the wheel speed sensors because of the odd combination of issues. Anyway, I take it to the dealer to get the codes pulled to confirm this is it and to try to figure out which wheel it is. First they tell me it is going to be $100, I was not thrilled at this point, but wanted to know what was going on. Then they say it will take about an hour, I am getting mildly pissed. Then they say I have to make an appointment and come back later in the week, I'm done. I asked why it took an hour - don't you just plug in the machine and read the codes? He tells me it is a long process and once they get the code they have to decode it to determine exactly what it is. I think this is a bunch of BS, but am not sure, so can someone confirm this to me??

Has anyone else ever had a code pulled, other than a CEL, at the dealer?? If so, what were you charged?

I went to 2 dealers around here and got the same run-around. Also, both dealer's service writers I talked to were very rude and did not seem like they wanted my service business. One guy didn't even look up from the computer he was typing on to acknowledge my existence - and they call themselves customer service people.... right.

John

 

Sorry to hear about this bud.


Two options came to my mind:

1) Go to any auto parts store and purchase a code reader. They are anywhere from $60+ for a decent one. However, to clear the codes you will need a higher model if I recall correctly.

2) Go to an autozone. They will read codes for free and tell you what is wrong. I am not sure if they can/will clear codes for free, but I'd be that if they have the ability to clear the codes they will do it for you.

Those were my first two thoughts.

3) Drive a few hours to EC and get them to see what's going on.

 

Autozone.
It's hit and miss if they will clear the codes for you or not.
Send the car in with a hot chick and they will practically rebuild the car in the parking lot for ya!

I rebuilt a few when I worked there!

Then again it IS a BLACK XF. You could always let it die a slow death!

 

Thanks guys, but autozone was my first stop. Since it is not a CEL code, they can not even read it much less clear it. Nothing they have will interface with the ESP module that is actually throwing the code. Remember I do not have a CEL, only the BAS/ESP and ABS lights are lit.

Thanks for the suggestions.....

 

Have you tried the steering wheel locking method? Turn the steering wheel all the way left, then all the right, and repeat a few times (don't remember exact number). That may reset your BAS/ESP and ABD lights

 

Hey John, PM me your address and I'll mail you my dashDAQ. Plug it in and it will pull the codes for you. Then you can look them up here in the forum and mail the dashDAQ back to me when you're ready. I won't need until March 15 when my car comes out of storage.

 

Do you have an iPhone or iPod Touch? If so you can download this app and buy the OBDII wireless module.

Then you can debug and clear CEL codes, datalog, have a performance meter, listen to music and take phone calls - all in one handy unit.

DevToaster - Rev - iPhone app development, Great iPhone apps, and more

 

Give Zahanma's idea a try to see if it works.

ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAM (ESP)
If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time. To calibrate, perform the following:
1. Start the engine.
2. Center the steering wheel.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left until the internal stop in the steering gear is met, then turn the wheel all the way to the right until the opposite internal stop in the steering gear is met.
4. Center the steering wheel.
5. Stop the engine.

Les

 

Velociabstact and Z,

Tried that first, did the battery disconnect, reset and everything. I cleared the code at my friends shop, but he can not read them. I started the car and psuhed the brake pedal, let it run for 5 minutes and the lights stayed off and spoiler was able to go down. As soon as I started driving, everything back to lit and spoiler deployed - hence my thought of the wheel speed sensor, that and it is a common issue on benzs

Damn, iPod nano and Palm Pre, that App sounds amazing though.

Winner, Winner!

Thanks Tom, sending PM now. I suppose when I send the unit back I should also include your sprint booster I have been 'testing' since the last Dragon LMAO

 

I know it's hard to be patient at the dealerships. You have to rely on the DRB III to go beyond everything except a c.e.l. code that is easily readable by many aftermarket hand scan tools. The DRB III is just not plugged in & presto all the results are on one screen in a handy andy format. Many screens have to be called up & skimmed for error codes in all the modules on our cars to get the real overall results to make an approach into the right direction. A good Tech could have all the info he needs in about 30 minutes or so including from set-up time to a full diagnostic result. If your ever traveling across the border into S. W. Ohio give me a p.m. & I'll hook mine up for you & see what we've got. Good luck.

 

LOL, yeah, that would be an added bonus.

 

You are right, but after dealing with these subpar stealerships around me, patience is a virtue I am a little short on at the moment. Thank you very much for the offer, if it wasn't for Tom shipping me his, I would gladly take you up on that just to spite the dealers

This forum is the greatest! (now, if we could only get new members or upload pics or change our avatars or.....)

 

John,
This is a little off the subject, but I thought I remembered reading in a previous post that you already had a local shop(not stealership) that you went to for your service? The reason I bring this up is because my 1st double wrench is coming up and I need a trustworthy place to take my car to(Im not confident in my own skills) and was hoping you had a good local shop(I am in Zionsville) that you could recommend. Thanks for any suggestions and I am glad to hear you found a resolution to your code problem!

 

Instead of taking it to the stealership, find a reputable authorized shop that works on MB's and take it to them. This is exactly what I did and sure enough turned out to be the right rear wheel speed sensor. I bought the part at MB of Austin and replaced it in about 10 minutes.
Cost me 45 bucks for the shop's time and I forget what the part cost exactly but I'm pretty sure I got away for under a 100 bucks.

Just my Dos Centavos

 

No problem at all, and yes, a friend of mine owns a shop that specializes in Merc, BMW, porsche, etc. and they do GREAT work. The man who owns the shop also works there everyday and knows his stuff. I do most of my work myself, but when something is over my head, he is the guy to turn to. He is not the cheapest in the world, but he is very trusted and most importantly is extremely honest and fair.

Mikar European Motorworks
120 1st Ave S.W.
Carmel, In 46032

Mike Hamblin - owner
Tell him John Tilka with the black crossfire told you to call, friends always appreciate a referral.

If it is something that is not too major, let me know, I have a pretty fair amount of ability to work on these things myself. I used to be in Carmel, but just bought a place in Broadripple, feel free to PM me if you have questions or even if you want to cruise when it gets warmer out. We may even be able to talk Ole Doc (from Cicero) into bringing out one of his SRTs to play......

This is exactly what I think it is as well. Should be seeing Tom's OBD tool within the next few days and we will know for sure. Already trying to get everything ready for the Dragon See you there??

 

Tilka? Ha-this is Max Levin! Thanks for the info and we should grab an adult beverage sometime and compare crossfire stories. What a coincidence! I always thought you had good taste in cars...

 

John, which dealerships did you go too? I have a friend that may or may not help us....just haven't had time to set down and talk to them. I am slowly training my old Chevy mechanic as well....he and I go way back together...he has all the tools and shop I need...but I always pay him something for use of the shop, tools etc....anyway, tell me who treated you like this....as Jim Harbor knows...their service dept's get rated, and people need to know who they are...

 

That is hilarious, glad you found this great forum, and a great car. As you can see, I spend way too much time here LOL. Get some pics of the XF up so I can see what you've got, nevermind the forum is screwed up, so no new pics, well drive by one of these days and see the new house, I will try and talk to you into going to the Dragon with us as well....

Its the guys at Champion and Tom O'Brien, both on 96th street. The service writers were completely rude and one of them lied to my face, telling me it would take an hour to get a code. And before I get any crap from anyone, I did not expect a diagnosis, I simply wanted the code sheet, and I would go through it myself, he told me the second that the OBD was hooked up to the car, it was $95, what a joke....

 

This is probably not what you want to hear, and I am in no way offering protection to these dealerships, but I am going to let you in on something. I do not work on Crossifres, I am a Volvo mechanic. Our labor rate is 80$ per hour and we are the cheapest dealership in Lubbock Texas. Our scan tool, VIDA, costs approximately 7000$ a month to keep "turned on" it's a subscription service from Sweden. Maybe the DRBIII/STaR system is like that, I don't know. I love check engine lights, they are usually so easy to fix, but all diagnostics are a standard hour minimum. Reason being, is that we need the income to keep the damned VIDA machine around. Another thing to consider is that OBDII, and soon OBDIII, are universal. Meaning they are the most basic of information. for an example, let's take a 2009 Volvo S80 with the V8 and AWD, that car has 37 modules in the car. Volvo has it's own set of codes that are Volvo specific on top of OBDII which more than likely the Crossfire is as well. That S80 has approximately 300,000 codes that are possible problems with the car. So how does a dealership justify charging a standard minimum hour to meet it's needs from customers, by diagnosing what that code, light, sound, etc is. How angry would customers be if they had to pay an hour of labor for something that took 5 minutes and got 5 minutes worth of information???

Just sharing a perspective from the opposite side of the coin...


Justin

 

Jeep2Xfire I just looked up your vin to see if you had a coupe or a roadster and the E-19 fan recall is still outstanding on your crossfire. I tried to upload the TSB for you but just like the picture thing it won't load. Do a search on E-19 fan recall and you should find some info. Pat