Have a 2004 couple with 80k miles, was 50 miles from home car died would not restart, flatbedded it home when was unloading it it restarted and surprised everyone including the tow operator. Looked at a lot of things on the forum, all good information and three strong possible causes. Need feed back on what you have experienced in order. Car starts up no problem runs for approximately 30 minutes then dies. Wait anywhere from 5 minutes to a couple hours and restarts right away, fails again when car warms up in about 30 minutes, not overheating. Have also had intermittent check engine light coming on. Have had o2 sensors and air pump replaced did not solve the problem. From everything I've found on the forum it could be the Relay Module. the crank sensor, or the cam sensor. The car does crank over just does not start. Battery is good. So in order which would you choose first.

Both cam and crank sensor can cause this type of condition, but the Relay module controls fuel pump, engine control, and has the Air pump relay so this could be the culprit. Since none are cheap would like your input on which you would look at first. I saw the detailed fix for the Relay module but mine were not in need of being re-soldered. The module does feel pretty hot after the 30 minutes of running

 

Is the ventilation fan running? (I mean the fan that draws cabin air in and blows it into the RCM/ECM box under the hood next to the battery.) That is the only cooling provided for the module box.

My guess is CPS. They are $39.11 from AutoHaus - higher elsewhere. They are known to be temperature sensitive when they age. I'd replace it. NOW.

(Seems like a bad CPS usually throws a code, but I've read posts by members who fixed their cars iwth a CPS that was not showing a code... just thought I'd edit and throw that in.)

Click here and get ya one!

 

You can probably fix the RCM for free if that is the problem:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html
It wouldn't hurt to try that first, then fixes that cost after that.

 

Found that link for the repair but the connections look OK Soldier looks fine. When I did push down on the plug that sits above the joints that are recommended for soldiering the relay would click laud and stall the car slightly

 

If the car is running and dies then restarts when cool- start with the CPS.
If the car randomly wont crank/start, go with the RCM

This seems to be the usual case.

 

Based on the fact that you said the relay clicks when you push on the connector, I would say you still have a bad solder joint... even if it looks good. Resolder it good and then see how things work..

If you were getting the P0335 code, that would be the CPS acting up.... You also didnt mention trouble with it cranking and not starting.. another indication of CPS bad...

The relay control module sounds like your issue..... but it is an easy and free fix(if you can do it)..

 

By CPS do you mean CRANK Positioning sensor or CAM positioning sensor

 

Crank Position sensor....

 

It always cranks over after it dies. Just sounds like it gets no gas or spark in order to start. Wait a little while and it restarts perfect.

 

Sounds like CPS.
But as MikeR said check you solder points.

 

If it cranks and dosen't start.... it is probably the crank sensor... the cam sensor supposedly acts the say... the ECU uses them both to start, the crank references the cam. You should be throwing a trouble code if it is either one of the sensors....(but maybe not)

 

Crank sensor.

 

Cam sensor will usually throw a code, crank sensor usually does not.

 

Mine throws a P0335 every time....

 

Replaced the crank sensor as suggested, drove around for almost 2 hours and the car has not died once. Also the check engine light that had been coming on and off is now staying off. $100 fix, had to buy tork sockets, sure beat sending it to the dealer and have them guess as to what's wrong.

THANKS for the help.

 

Well, there you go! Sounds like a broked/bad solder joint on the pins of the relay that controls the fuel pump.

Reflowing every joint on the board (and certainly any pin of any relays) should do the trick.