Just did my pads front and back today and my brakes pedal is not getting hard!! Wen I press the brake down I hear like a swooshing air sound comeing from the pedal. Wen the cars off the pedal gets hard but wen on it feels real soft and I hear that air sound. Please help!!!

 

Sounds like you need to bleed them.

 

In case you don't know it takes two people to bleed brakes.

 

You do not need two people to bleed brakes, it does makes it easier though. I have been bleeding brakes by myself for years with no problems and with out the power bleeder tools. You can also gravity bleed brake systems, which does not take two people either.

 

That is just wrong on so many levels....... NEVER put a comment like that on this forum....


Now to your problem.... I agree with the others... it sounds like you didnt get all the air out. As mentioned, there are several ways to bleed the brakes and get good results...


Remember... start at right rear wheel, then left rear, right front and last, left front.

 

Wow,
I guess I meet my first mister know it all and I can do it all by myself.
Not everyone knows that you should bleed the brake lines when new pads are installed. Although, not everyone has your vast amount and years of experience.
How is it being a loner?

 

I bleed my brakes alone. Not because I'm a loner but because when I do (bleed brakes) I'm alone!
Just me and my car.
Sweeeeet!

 

Chief,
I think you misunderstood.... I was only making a joke about the 'not getting hard' part of the post. Apparently it was a very little joke....

The post was very valid and not uncommon.... that is why I was giving the correct order for bleeding the lines.... I hope he had no issue getting it cleared up....

 

I think he was taunting Kingkub57. Not you Mike.

 

I bleed mine using a Mityvac...... takes less than 5 minutes.

As far as this problem...... Knowing how you replaced the pads would help.

Personally, I never open the system at all to replace pads. I simply open the top of the master cylinder, remove the old pads from the calipers, then use a C-clamp and some wood to slowly push the piston back into the caliper. Then you can just install the new pads, place the top back on the master cylinder and presto, you're done.

If for some reason you opened the system up, bleeders, brake lines, etc., then you definitely need to bleed the system..... perhaps you still have a bubble.

 

My bust,
I didn't realize how many people bleed their brakes alone. Like tighed1 said it must be a bonding moment.
I guess the old addage of reading the written word can be easy be interpreted different than the spoken word.

Hope for the sun and take some time to enjoy it.
Larry

 

^^^^^^^ I use that same process for changing my pads..... I dont open the bleeders unless I am changing the fluid.... just do the c-clamp SLOWLY...

 

I by far do not know everything, but as far as bleeding brakes goes I learned in a dealership where it is not always easy to get another technician to help you out to bleed brakes since time is money. Thats why over the years I began bleeding my own brakes and not waiting for somebody to help me, and to get the job done quiker, quiker means more money in the techs pocket, and for gravity bleeding do you really need two people? but yes there are a lot of people/technicians that are able to bleed brakes by them self. Then there is always how long do you want to wait for your freind to come over and help you out, I want my car back on the road, not just sitting and waiting. There is a lot of us that just push the pistons back in slowly, and install new pads without opening the bleeders thus no air in system.

 

I was going to say, i've never bled my brakes when changing pads. I just push the piston back with a tool I bought from autozone and put the new pads in. I did replace the fluid and added ss brake lines last time I did my brakes, which required me to bleed the brakes, but that's a different story.

 

How do you gravity bleed a system?
Doesn't seem like it would be very effective? Is it?
Mike

 

Gravity bleed.

Fill master cyc.
Leave top on but loose
Open the wheel bleeders one at a time noting the passage of fluid and or bubbles.
Recheck for full master cyc.
GO to the next wheel and thus repeat.
Start with the longest lines first and work back.

Or buy sucker that draws out fluid one wheel at a time, longest first.

Or get the right sized tubing to fit closely over the bleeder and run the tubing BELOW the liquid level of a clear container partially filled with brake fluid. When you press the pedal the fluid flows out, when you release, fluid only and no air can be drawn back into the lines.

Or get a helper that listens to you and say UP, and DOWN to pressurize the lines as you open and close the bleeder.

ME< I never have to bleed my lines, just wood block the pistons back and replace the pads. I change fluid when bored to keep it fresh now and then, getting out the water that tries to accumulate in brake fluid.

How to Bleed Brakes - wikiHow

Care and Bleeding of Your Brake System

Enjoy, Woody

 

I gravity bleed mine, because I replaced the lines and the fluid along with the pads....out with old, in with the new...using an old coke bottle at each brake locating...it works for me...


and I own a power bleeder, never used the thing....go figure...

 

I want to thank evryone includeing Kingkug57,Thirteendog,Montana,Woody,Oledoc2u, and less not forget Crossfire 725, and Waldig in dept discreption of gravity bleeding brakes.
Again thanks to all that support this HELP thread.

Larry

 

"Remember... start at right rear wheel, then left rear, right front and last, left front."

Unless, of course, you happen to be working on a right-hand steering vehicle ...

 

regardless if the way you bleed your brakes you shouldnt HEAR the air in the system but rather feel it in the pedal. what you are decribing sounds like a faulty master cylinder. you need to isolate were the sound is coming from.