Theres the important specs.. enjoy

 

I'd buy what you make if it keeps a curve in it. The blue camber arms interfered with the sway bar on my lowered (and raced) car. The Speedybenz arms are slim where the contact occurred with the blue arms but I had to lift the rear 10 mm to solve the same interference problem.

Les

 

I was thinking of making a curved center part.. problem is the adjustment process. I know people are having interferance and adjustment problems with certain kits.. The beauty of the round tube is that you can just turn the tube.

 

Thanks, bud. Now to figure out how to get clever?

BTW-CAD. Is the offset to scale?

 

If by offset you mean the curve.. more or less, If you want a benchmark, the lowest part of the curve lined up with the bottom of the bolt holes. I slapped the drawing together, highlighting the key dimensions. To get the width right, I was going to have spacers made up on a lathe that slip into the rod end; and use a larger rod end for added security.

 

I follow you. My thoughts too.

Thanks again!

 

Here's what I got. 11.6 mm bore. I'll let you decide the length. I wish I had an auto CAD program ..... and knew how to use it.

Les

 

Let me know what dimensions you want for the spacers... or just send me a drawing... and I can make them up for you. I have the lathe....

 

Feel lucky! I was charged $280.00 to install my own arms and align the 4 wheels. This was after I paid them $85.00 for the previous alignment. That was when they told me the rears were not adjustable.

 

i bought a pair from the seller on MBworld that Krazy turned us onto. I haven't put them on but with Steve's help, we will see how they compare to TVTs kit. Cheers


I can make a 3D model of the kit when I get a chance. I will model it in Pro/E and export it out in an .iges if someone has mill software. I will mock up a drawing also, just need to take some dimensions. Cheers

 

I could use it. Thanks.

 

max i have a spare set of oems if you want me to mail them to you

 

I need some help please? These Speedybenz camber arms look good to me. Its $275 a set. Do I need to say its for the rear? How much would it be to get them on and aligne the rear only? I need to buy something today so I can bw finished with the car before my work leave ends. Thanks!

P.s. are there any rear camber kits for less $ ?

 

S. thanks, bud! But I want to take a stab at building my own. Figgerin' out how to make it miss the crossbar when lowered seems to be the hard part. The Speedybenz ones are tube steel, plated and swaged at the ends for thread forming. Kinda' like a '96 Lincoln Town Car. Not my first choice. I'm thinkin' more along the lines of billet SST in an hourglass shape (thinner in the middle). Titanium would cost $200/$300 a pair in materials plus having to buy carbide tools.

How thin/would it even work to be in the middle to miss a lowered cars suspension? Anyone have a guess?

 

S. thanks, bud! But I want to take a stab at building my own. Figgerin' out how to make it miss the crossbar when lowered seems to be the hard part. The Speeybenz ones are tube steel, plated and swaged at the ends for thread forming. Kinda' like a '96 Lincoln Town Car. Not my first choice. I'm thinkin' more along the lines of billet SST in an hourglass shape (thinner in the middle). Titanium would cost $200/$300 a pair in materials plus having to buy carbide tools.

How thin/would it even work to be in the middle to miss a lowered cars suspension? Anyone have a guess?

 

Max,
I have the TVT set on my Aero with Koni's and Eibachs and I have no problems with interference......

I believe that Les had interference with those BIG blue ones...not sure if his current set up does or not... but he is pushing his REALLY hard on the track to generate the problem.....

 

Mike, thanks for the interest! OK, so what diameter do you think the shaft could be?
1/2"?
5/8"?
3/4"?

And would it be better to have the flats or hex on one end and not centered? Gimme' some clues? I'm clueless, you see...

 

The TVT arms are 1" diameter.... I have some .875" 303 stainless that should be adequate....
I would put the flats on both ends, about 1" - 1.5" from the ends... that way you can hold from either end.... the middle gets interference from the spings...

All you have to do is find the right end pieces, a couple of lock nuts and it should be pretty simple for you to knock them out....

 

I had interference with the blue ones. Under compression the arm would contact the sway bar which in turn would force the sway bar up into the seam of the frame. I got some slight contact with the speedybenz arms as well but I lifted the rear until it stopped. I believe the concept should be to cut out a section of the stock arms and weld in an adjuster of some sort. The major problem is where the sway bar passes over the top of the camber arm ... unless you go even lower than my car. The K&W coilover instructions mention the necessity of notching the frame for clearance if you go really low. That must be for the swaybar. The lower the car the closer to the frame it is.

Les

 

max i meant i have a set of oems you can have to dissect and do what you want with them. i have the tvt bars so i dont need them