so, driving to work this morning, i started slowing down for a red light when my battery light comes on, then all the rest of my dash lights come on and the car just dies. it wont start or even try to turn over. i dont think its the battery or alternator because headlights were still strong, all the belts were intact, but i could be totally wrong. unforunately, im not the most mechanically inclined person. it seems like i remember reading on here something about a sensor in the crossfire that could cause this to happen?

any help or guidance at all would br greatly appreciated, as i need this car for work. this sucks.

thanks for reading.

 

Sounds like the Relay Control Module Solder joints problem...Can anyone else help with this one?

 

What is the year of your Crossfire? If its 2004, '05 or '06, it may be the battery, if its the original. The electrical system is very sensative to any fluctuations in the strength of the battery. If it isn't the battery, it may be the issue that is outlined in the thread below.

Good Luck,
Dennis
DTMenace

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...archid=1294273

 

Double check your battery connections since it died suddenly and then won't crank.

 

Crank position sensor is a known culprit, but if I remember correctly, it usually throws a CEL code.

Do you have any codes to pull? (they can do this for free at most major automotive parts chains)

 

It is not likely the crank sensor since the car wont even turn over.....

As suggested, look at the battery, connections or the Relay Control Module. Not cranking is a symptom of the RCM issue....

Good luck...

 

is that what happens when the RCM goes bad while the car is running? same thing with the CPS? i'd undertstand it better if the RCM did that, but IMO wouldn't the CPS show only a fault upon the next start?

 

Honestly, Step # 1 in this instance is to POP THE HOOD and look to see if the belt is still on the pulleys properly.

BC.

 

check. did that, they were fine, which is good considering i just had them replaced. the battery terminals were very corroded but seemed as if the connection was solid. i will take them off and double check them. i have a mechanic friend who is going to hook up a computer to see if can pull any codes.

relay control module? i will check into this some more. thanks for the replies. anyone else?

 

i doubt it is the battery bc the head lights, even the brights, were very strong.

 

It can be the battery, but I would ask if has died and restarted before today? Also, it may restart after it cools down for awhile. If it restarts after awhile, then it is the relay control module. If it won't turn over at all, have the battery checked at an auto zone or similar place.

 

Even with bright lights and everything else working its can still be the battery. It takes more amps to turn the starter than any other light, radio, or accessory combined. A corroded post is your precursor to a dead battery. Keep them clean if you want them to charge properly. If the posts are tight but corroded it can still be enough to hamper proper charging from the alternator and starting of the car, the battery deep cycles and dies. When at a light the alternator may have not been enough to keep the car running as the rpm dropped to idle. Just my two cents...

 

Yep, a dead cell in battery could do this as well lights or no lights but I think it may be. The rcm here.

 

I think you said you just had belts replaced. I would make sure the belt is on correctly and turning the alternater the correct direction. Coroded battery terminals can cause electrical trash on the computer and cause problems that would not show in the headlights, might look great, but still cause a big problem. The alt. could have worn brushes and produce electrical trash and cause the computer problems. Let us know how it turns out.

 

yeah, if it's the alternator usually you'll feel it, or lights go dim when the idle drops. Stuff like that. I'm leaning to an RCM. If that happens in mine, I plan on pulling it, taking it down to the computer repair geeks, I suck at soldering, and do the horn thing at the same time.. Those kids will get a kick out of doing that.

 

ok so, i got off work and went to auto zone, ended up talking to the manager (who happens to be an ex mercedes tech - awesome) and he volunteered to go with me to hook up my car to their computer. when we arrive, he hops in my car and starts it right up. great news, but i still have an under lying issue to deal with. he seemed pretty positive that it was just the corroded negative battery post. hopefully, that's it but it sounds like it could still be the RCM. anybody about how much it costs to fix the RCM? i will deal with the battery terminal and if it happens again, then i'll know what the problem most likely is.

thanks for all the help guys...i was kind of panicky this morning bc i just wrote out a significant check yesterday for my new apartment lease, lol. any other time it wouldnt have been as big of deal.

 

oh, and this has happened before sort of....it wouldnt start one day for about 30 minutes, and then started right up. it has never died while driving before though.

 

RCM solder is the problem. Excellent guide on here. My car was doing the exact same thing and started happening more and more often. I followed the guide and fixed it last week, now the trouble is gone.

 

Since we're talking about the RCM solder fix, I'm curious if this problem is unique to the older model Xfires, or is it a problem that crops up across all model years.

I ask the question cause most times when I see this issue posted, it seems to be more common with the 2006 and older cars (although I could be wrong).

Maybe it's because the older the year, the more mileage, and the more vibration that might impact the joints.

Comments welcomed...

 

Here is the fix, If you can solder the cost is low.
Or you can contact tighed1, and do the swap with him. Cost, still low.


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html