Strange, because it was working OK and the other locks were not. As the others were not working and assuming that not that many would fail all at once I can see why this would be a hard problem to diagnose.
Live and learn I guess.

 

Boy you're telling me (hard to diagnose). I've got the whole car ripped apart. Now I have to just put it all back together. I've thought about selling this car several times but just can't bring myself to part with it. This little SRT just really runs great and there's not a bunch of them on the road. I'm extremely happy with the MPG for the power it has. My neighbor is ticked off because he can't stay with me at all in his Mustang GT.

 

This diagram is the same for coupe and roadster? I think not.
In my cars is also vacuum lock storage. (2x doors, trunk, gas door, storage lock).
Anybody have vacuum diagram for roadster?

 

The only difference between the coupe and roadster is the central console locking.
I believe this tees off the line to the gas door, but am not completely sure.
No, I have no diagram showing the console lock.

 

The storage lock is just a teed extension as ala_xfire says, and only locks when the whole car is locked. A simple fact that I forgot in my first answer. Dummy that I am.

 

From vacuum pump: 2 pipes for doors and trunk, 1 pipe for gas door and storage lock.
When normaly gas door and storage lock are closed/opened?
This is strange that storage lock and gas door are closed/open in the same time.
In my car this was not work ok (gas door always closed, I must opened from trunk).
But I fix this problem. In vacuum pump is electric valve. Normaly always open only for trunk and doors (gas door and storage closed). I make that all open.
Now doors, trunk, gas door and storage are close or open in the same time.
Anybody can explain how it works oryginaly?

 

Obviously you do not want the console locked while you are driving the car, so it is attached to the gas door line as the gas door only locks when the whole car is locked when stationary. Get it?

 

With the original key fob that came with the car the locking function was preformed on all the locks with one push of the button and was accomplished with vacuum. To unlock the car you had two options: one push of the button would unlock only the drivers door and all the other locks except I think the gas cap would remain closed. This was accomplished with pressure. The second option was one push of the button would unlock all the locks at the same time, also accomplished with pressure. You could program your key fob either way, which was explained in the owners manual as global unlocking.

 

Understood but I still thinking that too big brain designed this vacuum lock.
Probably it did not work ok becouse in my car I not have oryginal remote control.

 

It works just fine so long as water does not get into the pumps electrics.
Your car seems to have a lot of problems unfortunately.

 

My electric pump have 3-5 cm styrofoam base, I hope that will be no problem with water (and car is all time in garage, I only use it for fun).
Car have many problems becouse was cheap but every problems are trifle, I like work in garage, for me it's better than crossword puzzle and most I can fix myself with your help

 

You have a GREAT outlook on life (at least in regards to external car things)! I must comment on your comment @ ("My electric pump have 3-5 cm styrofoam base, I hope that will be no problem with water"). In this case nothing can prevent problems with your central locking module when water intrusion comes into contact with this module. I stand corrected, if you totally SEALED (which cannot be done) this part you can prevent moisture problems BUT you may have forgot this module relies on an air pump! A pump like this NEEDS an air intake, hence any sealing of the unit being impossible. Check for moisture/water there, too many have found out the longer it sits there, the more costly to fix!


It may be something else, but checking for this issue (which has caused far too many of the same problems you experience) is FREE! It could save you a lot of $ (in your funds). If that module is even slightly damaged, it could explain your problem. Water intrusion is a known problem with this component. Good luck!

 

Thank you
Offcourse, this is not possible for totaly sealed this vacuum pump but I have idea.
Check photos. Behind arrow is many free space above floor.

 

I suppose you can move it higher? Never heard or seen anyone else do that before. Just be careful with routing the wires (and most importantly) those fragile air lines. I have read they get a little brittle, the older they get.

 

It's only idea but I think will be no problem for move it.
I'll be watching water level in trunk

 

I know it's been six years, but thanks for posting the Central Pump line routing diagram.

 

I added more details in post #25 if they are any help.