Fault Code
I am in the process of purchasing a Limitied '05 and the dealer is trying to complete a government required Emissions Test. When they plug into the fault computer, they get a message that the car is "not ready". The dealer says it is because the battery was dead for some time and that they have to run the car for several miles to reset.
Does this sound right?
Does this sound right?
I am in the process of purchasing a Limitied '05 and the dealer is trying to complete a government required Emissions Test. When they plug into the fault computer, they get a message that the car is "not ready". The dealer says it is because the battery was dead for some time and that they have to run the car for several miles to reset.
Does this sound right?
Does this sound right?
180 is exactly right. The dealer, however, may not be. There is no "Not Ready" message. Their reader is likely showing a number of codes that will only reset by running the car for a while. This is very common. The check engine light will not be on unless there is an actual problem. The dealer cannot sell the car and transfer the ownership until the meters re-set and you get good readings. I believe that they are allowed one code to remain, and it's usually the evap. No worries.
180 is exactly right. The dealer, however, may not be. There is no "Not Ready" message. Their reader is likely showing a number of codes that will only reset by running the car for a while. This is very common. The check engine light will not be on unless there is an actual problem. The dealer cannot sell the car and transfer the ownership until the meters re-set and you get good readings. I believe that they are allowed one code to remain, and it's usually the evap. No worries.

Moral of this tale is not to disconnect the battery when you have a E test in the near future.
Thanks for the quick response guys. Your advice is greatly appreciated!
The dealer has taken the car out on the highway, and the OBD did not reset. His information is that the car must sit for 8 hours before trying again. I think he plans on driving the car home to do some stop and go and try that. This is NOT a Chrysler dealer. He is aware that he cannot pass the E test and transfer ownership until this gets sorted.
With your advice I will wait to tomorrow to see if they can get it sorted before deciding what to do.
The dealer has taken the car out on the highway, and the OBD did not reset. His information is that the car must sit for 8 hours before trying again. I think he plans on driving the car home to do some stop and go and try that. This is NOT a Chrysler dealer. He is aware that he cannot pass the E test and transfer ownership until this gets sorted.
With your advice I will wait to tomorrow to see if they can get it sorted before deciding what to do.
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With your advice I will wait to tomorrow to see if they can get it sorted before deciding what to do. [IMG]https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/images/satellite/buttons/quote.gif[/IMG]
Hey Ottawa John and 180;
This is my first time using a forum and it is a TON of help. I'm a car guy but don't know the Crossfire.
I traded in my 08 Chrysler 300 for this 05 XF. The safety is done and they're just trying to sort the E test. The check engine light is not on. I have only paid a deposit so want them to get this fixed before I collect the car and make the final payment. Just in case the battery is toast or there is some other issue with the e-test.
The car is dark grey with a lightr gray interior that needs a little work on the interior from cigarette burns. I have to replace the center console surround, the ashtray cover and the drink holder is gone. I have read that I should just install a bin instead of the cup holder?
This is my first time using a forum and it is a TON of help. I'm a car guy but don't know the Crossfire.
I traded in my 08 Chrysler 300 for this 05 XF. The safety is done and they're just trying to sort the E test. The check engine light is not on. I have only paid a deposit so want them to get this fixed before I collect the car and make the final payment. Just in case the battery is toast or there is some other issue with the e-test.
The car is dark grey with a lightr gray interior that needs a little work on the interior from cigarette burns. I have to replace the center console surround, the ashtray cover and the drink holder is gone. I have read that I should just install a bin instead of the cup holder?
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I traded in my 08 Chrysler 300 for this 05 XF. The safety is done and they're just trying to sort the E test. The check engine light is not on. I have only paid a deposit so want them to get this fixed before I collect the car and make the final payment. Just in case the battery is toast or there is some other issue with the e-test. The car is dark grey with a lightr gray interior that needs a little work on the interior from cigarette burns. I have to replace the center console surround, the ashtray cover and the drink holder is gone. I have read that I should just install a bin instead of the cup holder? [IMG]https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/images/satellite/buttons/quote.gif[/IMG]
The drink holder is gone? Do you just have a hole there? A bin is your best bet, though. No one likes the factory cup holders.
Welcome to the forum and the Crossfire. Take a look at the Canadian site in the Regional section of the forum and see if you can join us for any of the upcoming GTG's.
Hey Ottawa John and 180;
This is my first time using a forum and it is a TON of help. I'm a car guy but don't know the Crossfire.
I traded in my 08 Chrysler 300 for this 05 XF. The safety is done and they're just trying to sort the E test. The check engine light is not on. I have only paid a deposit so want them to get this fixed before I collect the car and make the final payment. Just in case the battery is toast or there is some other issue with the e-test.
The car is dark grey with a lightr gray interior that needs a little work on the interior from cigarette burns. I have to replace the center console surround, the ashtray cover and the drink holder is gone. I have read that I should just install a bin instead of the cup holder?
This is my first time using a forum and it is a TON of help. I'm a car guy but don't know the Crossfire.
I traded in my 08 Chrysler 300 for this 05 XF. The safety is done and they're just trying to sort the E test. The check engine light is not on. I have only paid a deposit so want them to get this fixed before I collect the car and make the final payment. Just in case the battery is toast or there is some other issue with the e-test.
The car is dark grey with a lightr gray interior that needs a little work on the interior from cigarette burns. I have to replace the center console surround, the ashtray cover and the drink holder is gone. I have read that I should just install a bin instead of the cup holder?
If it does it may be hard to sell later as the smoke smell is hard to get rid off.
In other words you may be crying later when you want to trade it.
Resale price would go down.
Dammit, this is stupid. You need, what, 3 or 4 "good trips" as it says in the manual. You only get that by DRIVING THE DAMN CAR - what IDIOTS you are dealing with - let it sit 8 hours?
Dealer stupidity and mis-information really pisses me off. If you want to buy the car and have paid a deposit - tell the fools to let you take the car home for three days and drive the damn thing, two things happen:
1) You get to know the car and see that it has no real issues.
2) The car gets driven and the issue is resolved.
From the manual, you need "good trips" and that means start it, drive it and warm it to (I think) a water temp of at least 140F. THEN, it must sit and cool to under (I think) 100F. Now, start and run it AGAIN and repeat the process a few times. Problem solved.
Dealer stupidity and mis-information really pisses me off. If you want to buy the car and have paid a deposit - tell the fools to let you take the car home for three days and drive the damn thing, two things happen:
1) You get to know the car and see that it has no real issues.
2) The car gets driven and the issue is resolved.
From the manual, you need "good trips" and that means start it, drive it and warm it to (I think) a water temp of at least 140F. THEN, it must sit and cool to under (I think) 100F. Now, start and run it AGAIN and repeat the process a few times. Problem solved.
Tell them if they won't let you do that, you will go elsewhere. And believe me, the market is FULL of these cars at the lowest prices we've ever seen.
Also, PLEASE tell them that Mark CHristopher down in Cumming Georgia said they are idiots who have no business selling cars.
YES, it's been THAT damn bad at work today.
Also, PLEASE tell them that Mark CHristopher down in Cumming Georgia said they are idiots who have no business selling cars.
YES, it's been THAT damn bad at work today.
Dammit, this is stupid. You need, what, 3 or 4 "good trips" as it says in the manual. You only get that by DRIVING THE DAMN CAR - what IDIOTS you are dealing with - let it sit 8 hours?
Dealer stupidity and mis-information really pisses me off. If you want to buy the car and have paid a deposit - tell the fools to let you take the car home for three days and drive the damn thing, two things happen:
1) You get to know the car and see that it has no real issues.
2) The car gets driven and the issue is resolved.
From the manual, you need "good trips" and that means start it, drive it and warm it to (I think) a water temp of at least 140F. THEN, it must sit and cool to under (I think) 100F. Now, start and run it AGAIN and repeat the process a few times. Problem solved.
Dealer stupidity and mis-information really pisses me off. If you want to buy the car and have paid a deposit - tell the fools to let you take the car home for three days and drive the damn thing, two things happen:
1) You get to know the car and see that it has no real issues.
2) The car gets driven and the issue is resolved.
From the manual, you need "good trips" and that means start it, drive it and warm it to (I think) a water temp of at least 140F. THEN, it must sit and cool to under (I think) 100F. Now, start and run it AGAIN and repeat the process a few times. Problem solved.
Get an SRT and here it is, just for you. CLICK
Or JHM2ks SRT6 at US$15,000.
Last edited by onehundred80; Mar 26, 2014 at 05:39 PM.
hey pizza guy...how's the day going???
had to do my smog check here in good olde california.
i had had the battery disconnected and had cleared the check engine.
my smog guy told me that i would have to take it out and run it for a 100+- miles for the computer to re-charge.
did that and no problem.
passed perfect.
stay safe and sane??
had to do my smog check here in good olde california.
i had had the battery disconnected and had cleared the check engine.
my smog guy told me that i would have to take it out and run it for a 100+- miles for the computer to re-charge.
did that and no problem.
passed perfect.
stay safe and sane??
Yea, and that stupid dealer is gonna PARK the car for 8 hours....
I'[m not the only one here upset - the two guys above me are REALLY getting crapped on.
I'[m not the only one here upset - the two guys above me are REALLY getting crapped on.
The concern you're describing is the emissions system self test. The XF will self-test under certain parameters to verify all emissions systems are compliant. Those being: Catalyst, Oxygen sensor, Heater for Oxygen sensor, Evaporative Emissions control, EGR, secondary air injection, heated catalyst (our cars don't have), and Misfire. You will need to complete multiple drive cycles for all the "monitors" to perform self tests. The one particular exception though is the Evaporative emissions, you'll need to have generally between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank as the system will not run the test with too much or too little fuel. Simply, the car needs to be driven more...being brought up to operating temp each time.
The concern you're describing is the emissions system self test. The XF will self-test under certain parameters to verify all emissions systems are compliant. Those being: Catalyst, Oxygen sensor, Heater for Oxygen sensor, Evaporative Emissions control, EGR, secondary air injection, heated catalyst (our cars don't have), and Misfire. You will need to complete multiple drive cycles for all the "monitors" to perform self tests. The one particular exception though is the Evaporative emissions, you'll need to have generally between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank as the system will not run the test with too much or too little fuel. Simply, the car needs to be driven more...being brought up to operating temp each time.
The dealer drove the car around some more (in traffic) today and the computers reset. The car passed the emissions test and I picked it up.
Yes Ottawa John - that is the car - less the $4,000 I got in trade for my Chrysler 300 with 200K on it - I paid $6,000 plus GST
Yes Ottawa John - that is the car - less the $4,000 I got in trade for my Chrysler 300 with 200K on it - I paid $6,000 plus GST


