I opened the top on the car, and it immediately fell back down! Used to stay up while I put the top down...should I try to tighten the top up some? Can that be done?

 

Mine had started to do that befoe it was replaced under the rear window issue program. It only did it if the front of the car pointed down hill on an incline. The rest of the time it operated correctly. Startling when it crashes back down. Don't know of any way to tighten it up other than a good cleaning and long dry in the sun. Good luck finding a better solution.

 

OK, here is the answer: There are a couple of bow tension cords on either side that have a spring on one end with rubber and a brass center, and a plastic 'T' on the other. You will need something to replace the rivets with. I had some spare (what looked to be) 1/4" nuts and bolts. Could NOT use them to replace the rivet at the very front. A sheet metal screw of the right size, possibly flat-head, will do the job. Allow a couple of hours to get it done, you'll need the patience.



Remember that when you partially open the top, you have to remember to power up the car every 10 minutes or less, so the pump will keep the top in the same position. Otherwise, the top will have to go all the way down to reset.

Now, raise the top so you can get to the 10 or so Torx bolts that hold the front edge of the top and a pair of seals on. Remove the seals as well on both sides, because you will need to get to a rivet, and remove it.



Working from front to back, remove the rivet underneath the seal, then the one that holds a short strap, about mid-way on the frame, then remove the last one that guides the bow tension cord. The way that item is put together, you can't get the "T" end through without taking it apart.



Take the front of the canvas off and fold it back so you can get to everything.

Lift the wide strip of nylon at the front of the frame, and find the Torx bolt that holds the bow tension cord, then, trace to the back and remove the "T." This part is tricky, because if you have bigger hands, you may not be able to do it. The cord has to be slack enough so that the "T" can be rotated towards the front of the car, then removed by sliding towards the car's centerline. Replacement is reverse of removal.




Once both bow tension cords are attached, replace the items that were riveted, The rear loop item has to be pointed to the outside of the car. When I reinstalled the second item, the strip, I put some Locktite on the threads, but didn't tighten up too much, to give it some space to spin.

When reassembling the front of the top, do one side at a time, starting with the seal. It fits on the end of the frame, then fits onto the top frame. You may have to straighten out your seals, and narrow that gap so they fit snugly. Install one of the bolts, the one closest to you work. You will have to make sure that the plastic edge of the canvas fits UNDER the frame, and you will have to pull down on the frame at the same time you install the first bolt. Pay attention, because it's easy to cross-thread those.

Do the other side, installing the bolt closest to your work, after you've gotten the frame in the seal and the seal properly on the top frame. A urethane or rubber mallet will come in handy for getting the seals on.

Think that's it...let me know if I can answer any questions or if I missed something...

 

Does anyone know the part number for these cables?

 

I don't know the part number, but this is still up on EBay :
Chrysler Crossfire Convertible TOP Side Tension Cables | eBay

 

I'll see if I can find it...there wasn't one on the package I got...you can get them from turnersperformanceprogramming on ebay...$20 for the set...

 

Wrong ones for the application we're talking about here...I made that mistake already! He doesn't have a listing for them, but offered the correct ones to me after the fact...

 

Now $30.85 with the shipping ......

 

Not what I see...$25 USD, without shipping, with a 'Make Offer' button...I used the 'Make Offer'...

 

Sounds like a lot to go through just for the minor inconvenience of holding the front edge up a few seconds during opening and closing. Mine has been this way since I got it so it is all I knew. I will live with it for now.

 

I like having stuff work like it should...and it seems heavier than you would think!

 

Nice write-up. I guess keeping mine garaged with the top down (and the car covered) all summer has saved wear and tear on the top mechanisms.

 

Thanks, sir. I would think, though, that keeping it down would stretch the springs, creating the problem. I've promised to get it down at least once a week...

 

Just wanted to confirm that the one on ebay $25.00 w/o shipping are the correct Chrysler Crossfire Convertible Tension Cables they look different from your picture. I was thinking about ordering a set. Thanks
Chrysler Crossfire Convertible TOP Side Tension Cables | eBay

 

@autumnmass...those are NOT the correct ones, as I pointed out in my write-up. I made the same mistake! Write the seller and ask for the bow tension cords...

 

Thank you, I'm all set have the correct ones.

 

Greatness!

 

An update...those bow tension cords held up about a week...have to get some new ones...

 

A week, or a year. Either way thats way to short a time. I wonder if the Hydraulics guy here on the board has any.

 

I agree..who is the hydraulics guy?