I've had my 2005 Crossfire Convertible Roadster for about four years and had a few strange problems I categorize as electrical or sensor-related. In most cases re-seating the convertible top carrier in the truck seemed to fix the problem.


I've also had problems with the battery going dead. I thought it was because I didn't drive the car enough, but I no longer think that's the problem. Now my car is completely dead. The first thing I did was make sure the battery was charged. Still nothing. No lights or anything when I insert the key. Everything seems to be completely dead. I would call AAA to jump start it, but it's clear it's not just a battery problem. My best guess is that a critical sensor is offline preventing anything from working.


Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. At this point I'm ready to have it towed to a shop.


Thanks,
Ron

 

Have you checked the really big main fuses right near the battery? If I recall some of those are 125 amp fuses.

 

Maybe a severely corroded battery ground cable where it bolts to the fenderwell ?

Try using a multimeter and measure from the engine block to the positive terminal.

 

Ron

• When AAA arrived and "jumped" the car, did it start?
• What is the date of the battery?
• What color case does the battery have, black or white?
• Do you have a battery tender in use, during the dormant times it's not driven?
• The systems are very sensitive to minor fluctuations in the battery output, creating crazy scenarios, electronically.

A little more details are needed to make a ballpark diagnosis, your initial information is very limited.
Dennis
DTMenace

 

Everything looks fine here, but I appreciate the suggestion.
Ron

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Everything in both fuse boxes that I found under the hood seem fine.
Ron

 

I appreciate your suggestions. I haven't called AAA yet. The battery is relatively new (black) and I do have a battery tender on it. My information is sketchy because I don't know much about cars and can't really describe it any better. It's just dead and I don't think it's the battery. Sorry, Ron

 

If you dont even get lights on the dash when you turn the key on, it has to the be 200 amp fuse in the box next to the battery OR you have SEVERLY corroded battery cables (and the far end of the battery ground cable has been an issue, it is hidden but corrodes.)

LOOKING at the 200 amp fuse won't tell you if it is blown, a simple check with a meter is all it takes to find that out.

This should be an easy one!

 

Thanks for the input. I just removed the 200amp fuse and it looks okay, but I will take your word for it that you can't tell by looking. I will take it someplace where they can test it and replace it if it's bad. I don't see any corrosion anywhere. The battery and the cables are very clean and I never drive it except in the summer when it's dry.


But I have had problems with the battery going dead. Like I said, at first I thought it was because I didn't drive it enough, but now I think there's a problem with the alternator not keeping it charged. I bought a batter charger / tender a couple years ago and haven't had the problem since.


Any and all other suggestions will be appreciated.


Thanks,
Ron

 

My first thought was a bad alternator.

 

I have suspected a problem with the alternator for a while, but in the past when the car wouldn't start I just had to charge the battery or get a jump but it was never completely dead. At least some instruments lights would come on. Plus this happened suddenly when I had been driving the car regularly.


Could a bad alternator cause it to go completely dead like this?
Ron

 

Measure the battery voltage - right across it's terminals - if you have battery voltage and no lights/etc., then the 200 amp fuse is blown or you have an open crimp/clamp/etc. somewhere.

If you have no battery voltage, the battery is dead. (This can be due to current draw when the car is sitting or <and I had this happen years ago> you have a broken connection between a battery post and battery plate. This can happen from age or from flexing of the connection between the battery post and plate - caused by weaknesses in the construction of the battery's housing.)

A voltmeter will tell you all you need to know, no mater what is wrong here.

 

What Pizzaguy said. If those don't find the trouble you could try this... Get your jumper cables out take one of the ends black clips and connect it to the battery NEGATIVE (the -) connection. Go to the other end of the jumper cable and take the black clip and clip that to a beefy metal spot on the engine block. Again that is the negative battery post to the engine block using the two black clips.. THE RED CLIPS CONNECT TO NOTHING. This would bypass the cars ground lead that we suspect could be corroded. If all is good with this bypass in place replace the negative battery lead. WARNING! Do not go anywhere near the red or positive battery lead or connectors to do this test. If you don't fully understand what this test does please don't proceed.

 

My first thought when multiple systems go is a ground particuarly an engine <> chassis ground. The second is a bad positive lead from the battery or a main fuse/circuit breaker. It takes something close to the power source for everything to just die when running.

 

Here's my take. Unless this is a daily driver, your battery is toast. I don't drive either of mine enough, and they will go dead because there are still things, like the radio, still pulling a few amps from the battery while it sits. Over time, it will take away the cranking amps, and she won't start. You jump it, or charge it, but do you ever really get the battery all the way back up? Probably not. The car is very voltage sensitive. Batteries will fail. This car demands a good battery. Daily drivers don't have these problems until 3-5 yrs down the road. Cars that are weekender's or short distance will have more problems. It is best to unhook the positive cable if you aren't going to drive it. Even battery tenders didn't help my cause. Over time, the batteries just fail. Put a new battery in and all's well. Corrosion can cause this as well, and you won't ever see it. You have to unplug and plug things in from time to time to make sure you have a good clean connection. And, lastly, it hates moisture. So, look at everything electrical for corrosion

 

Generally have at least two cars that are not being driven regularly. Have little HF 50ma float chargers on them including some Optimas (slowly everything is getting AGMs) from before 2007. Have yet to have a failure.

 

Doc, where did that come from ?
It is universally agreed that disconnecting the NEGATIVE battery cable is correct.

 

universally agreed....lol I am not in this universe. I take the battery out now. So no cables are connected. No positive, no power. Take ground cable off and movement around the car, may just find a ground somewhere.....

 

The only ground that might possible be found is for the neg cable to get back in contact with the battery neg terminal, otherwise there is no path for any current. Or, I guess someone could get really careless and lay a wrench down that connects frame/engine to the neg post.
OK, I'll go with you - remove the stinkin battery.

 

You don't have to agree with me.....but I have been there with the maintainers and I am just done with it. It is frustrating to say the least. I went thru 4 small batteries, and I finally went back to full size. Keep in mind, this isn't FL weather up here. And last year was a cold winter, wet and cold. You either have to drive them, or get ready for battery problems. Now, even though I have went thru a few batteries, I have not had any of the usual glitzes that come with it. Nothing to speak of. Go figure