After battery change top no longer goes down. Press button windows go down then beeps. I have tried bypassing trunk switch and manually put up and down many times to reset. Will go up once put down. Any ideas or shops that can look at in northern NJ?

 

I'm in north New Jersey, close to Fairfield.
Here are some no cost things to check:
Swap out fuse #5 in the engine fuse box. That's the fuse for roof control.
Check your hydraulic fluid in reservoir behind drivers rear wheel in trunk.
Try disconnecting the negative side of the battery for 5 minutes then reconnect it.
Check the micro switch on the rail above where the passenger's head would be.
Here's a trouble shooting thread that might be helpful. Convertible top sensor trouble shooting.

 

Thanks, will do. Im in pequannock. I did check fuse 5. Looked ok

 

Hi, I would test it with an ohm meter just to be sure. I've had 3 fuses that looked good but were actually broken where they connect on the side. Do you have a scanner? You might be bale to pull up a code.
I have a CRP 321 if you want to use it.
I'll be at Jim Johnston's Steakhouse on Eisenhower Parkway in Roseland tonight. Providing it doesn't rain. They have a cruise night every Wednesday night from 6pm - 9pm.
I'll send you a pm with my number if you need help.
John.

 

This happens with battery replacements more often than you'd think. I've had three Roadsters over 16 years and in all this time, it did happen once - it is caused by the PTCM losing 'sync'. If this is your problem, doing a re-sync will restore it.
If the re-sync does not work, you did not do it right OR there is another issue going on. BUT, if you say the top really did stop working as soon as you changed the battery, then I would bet a re-sync is all that is needed.

THis is my version of a re-sync and it works for me and has worked for others. WHile the video talks of how to put the top up and down manually, doing so fullly, as described in the video, with the engine running - IS a re-sync.

 

Can the CRP talk to the top module? If so, I am gonna BUY ONE TODAY.

 

I owe you an adult beverage pizzaguy
This a prime reason why I wish your syllabus on automotive schematics wasn't cancelled.
However, In my own defense, I've already told the OP that I'm not a convertible top expert in a PM.

 

So, I was just reading this trying to figure out my top and would like to know if in fact the scanner can read top codes or not?

 

Not your average scanner.

 

Ok, thanks, so nothing I can buy to read any codes

 

Not that I know of, what is the issue?

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...nicky-top.html

I have fixed a bunch of things but haven't found the last gremlin. I am sure I overlooked something, but every time I find something wrong it takes days to get the part and by then I have lost my momentum.

 

Have you tried manually opening and closing it several times to resync it?

 

Well, yes I did, but I know pizza guy said 3 times so I will do that next. I had to step away for a bit

 

Yes, manually 3 times, also some further testing on the other thread I have going:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...icky-top.html#

 

The OBD readers read the codes stored by the ECU as part of the emissions control system. That is what the "Check Engine" light is about, as long as that light is out, the ECU has what it needs to comply with emissions standards - if that light is on, the system cannot guarantee compliance. This is why you can't pass an "emissions test" with that light on.

Your convertible top is not part of the emissions system. There are no emission codes to read.

Now...
If you want to read the position data from the various switches and sensors that tell the PTCM (Power Top COntrol Module) what is happening, the only instrument I know of that does that is the STAR diagnostic system (or one of the Chinese knock-offs) Prices range from a high of around $1500 for a 'new' system from China down to $250 or so for one that someone is selling because they have sold their last Crossfire.

I find those to be nice tools to have, but I have fixed countless convertible top issues without one. The secret is to understand how the system works. That is the reason for my "Convertible Top Sensors" thread that so few read because reading the thread and learning how the system works requires too much effort and is not an "instant fix" that most are looking for.

If my tone sounds negative, it's because I put a hell of a lot of effort into that thread and most won't read it - they want things done for them.

 

I feel your pain. I have read every word of your posts and have downloaded the manual and wiring diagrams and printed out dozens of pages to work with.
From that information I was able to find a broken divider switch, find that the latch switch in the windshield header was bad, and understand the system completely enough to figure out that the little motor inside the electric trunk latch was bad. That last item is what has given me a top that now closes on its own, just not open.
I was hoping for a tool, not to cut corners, but to help me stop flying blind in this endeavor.