Congratulations! Glad it finally worked out well, even if it took much more time than it should have.

 

mine has been back 3 times for the same problem. first time they said there was no problem, second time the problem show up for them and it was a power valve in trans. back a week later to replace parts in tranny but this didn't fix problem. i called dealer, he said they have to talk to service manger, this i will do today. i sure hope I don't have to use the lemon law because I really like the car.

ED

 

Cobra,

Print out the excerpts from this thread and find the other one that states that the secondary cooling unit for the supercharger is most likely at fault. It causes an over-temperature condition that makes the supercharger shut down. This has been the case for a few of the SRT6's that have that problem. It's a pesky problem to fix, and happens more in summer obviously. But if they want to induce the problem, try draining a bit of coolant out so the engine temps go up more than normal to emulate summer driving temps. Might cause it to happen... Or just have them do that to at least eliminate that cooling unit.

You might also consider finding a new dealership that has SRT6 trained techs. There aren't many of them around... In fact, you might ask the service manager if the tech working on it has been trained specifically for SRT vehicles and particularly the SRT6... Once you find a good dealership with the right techs... stick with them... That's the only downside of SRT6's... rare parts, rare technicians... consider taking out a life insurance policy on your local SRT6 technician...

 

I showed my local dealer the thread. First they replaced just the temperature sensor, which didn't correct the problem. They then agreed to replace the auxiliary water pump, and problem corrected!

Seems like the techs are willing to figure it out, based on the initial "error code" they decided to replace the air temp sensor. When that didn't fix the problem they further researched the issue, along with the info in this thread, and agreed to replace the auxiliary water pump. I'm glad they did, it's just a shame they couldn't diagnose the problem with the "error code" from the car's computer.

Thanks to this forum and their willingness to agree to replace the auxiliary water pump I'm back to enjoying the SRT-6.

 

Thank you. Car though has other "issues" now. Driver side seat heater not working and an annoying "creek" on the convt. top.

As much as I really like the "looks" and it's rarity, I'm just dreading the day when more major problems arise and the rarity of the car bites my ****.

Car's paid off so I really need to make a quick decision if I'm going to keep it or get rid of it before I lose any more money.

 

I just wanted to say thanks Coyote. My friend bought a Crossfire SRT6 about a month ago. He was really frustrated with the occasional sluggishness. Chrysler in Brentwood gave him a bad time... couldn't find the problem. I found this forum and read Coyote's advice. The next Monday he was back at the shop. Coyote was right! He now has on demand SPEED!
Thanks again Coyote!

 

Oakey, you're more than welcome. I'm glad that the information has been
able to help your friend. I'm sure that he should follow this forum, as there
are a couple of other issues out there that he should watch for. And there
is an awful lot of good advice on this board to help get him through.

Coyote

 

18k miles and my intercooler pump seems to have failed as well. The S/C gets hot and the car goes into limp mode.

 

I hate to bump an old thread, but I feel the need to vent. My car just spent the last week at the dealership because of this issue and because my driver-seat bottom heater had failed. I got it back yesterday, and the service invoice shows that the driver-seat bottom heater was replaced but that they could not replicate the supercharger issue. I was furious! I had already explained to them last week that it was most likely the intercooler pump, since it has failed on almost every SLK32 to date, and that the supercharger overheats and disengages until it cools down again. Then I noticed they only put three miles on the car. The engine isn't even up to full operating temperature in three miles! There is no way they could have tested my problem.

So now I am between two choices. I can either bring the car back to the dealership and try to get a tech to ride with me until it the issue occurs again, risk having it sit at the dealership for another week, and then hopefully have it fixed under warranty. Or, I can order the $244 intercooler pump from Mercedes and replace it myself in my garage in 2 hours. This is my only mode of transportation, and I cannot have it sitting in a lot for another week or longer while I wait for the techs to have a brain movement.

What do you guys think?

 

I would do it myself.

Looks like a easy job. Check the link: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...placement.html

 

Yea, my older brother is a Master Certified Mechanic for Mercedes-Benz. He would be assisting me, as he has done hundreds of these replacements on SLK32's.

 

Forget the dealership then.

 

"If you want something done right, do it yourself!"

My brother and I completed the swap of the intercooler pump this evening. It took a whole of 5 minutes to accomplish. Getting the fender cover off took the longest. We had the pump itself swapped in less than a minute.

The car accelerates like a bat out of hell again! Now I am going to go after the dealership to reimburse me for ordering the part from Germany, since their tech claimed he inspected my intercooler pump and that it was not faulty and that it was not the cause of the problem.

Words of wisdom for all of you: If you ever suddenly experience horribly sluggish acceleration in your SLK32 AMG or Crossfire SRT-6 after a couple minutes of driving, no matter what a dealership claims it is the intercooler pump. Have it replaced, and the problem will be solved.

 

So you mean jacking it up, take off wheel and splash shield, remove pump and then put it all back together took ONLY 5 min? Cool. How much was the retail price for the pump and was it ordered from a Chrysler or Merc dealership? Also how much coolant did you lose when you changed pumps?

 

When you have a Master-Certified tech who has done hundreds of these swaps before, it certainly helps!

The pump was $244.92 through www.chryslerpartsdirect.com. And we lost less than an ounce of coolant during the swap because we used clamps on the two tubes before and after the pump.

 

So you clamped the inlet and outlet hoses shut while the pump was off?

 

Good to hear Rydiak. Glad it worked out for you. You are one lucky guy to have a master certified tech at your disposal!

 

Yep. We clamped them with light-pressure plastic clamps, disconnected the tubes, removed the old pump from the bracket, added the new pump to the bracket, reconnected the tubes and unclamped them. The only coolant you lose is the coolant already in the pump and between the clamps.

Like I said, the hardest part was removing the fender-well cover. Probably a 20 minutes job max if you aren't familiar with the car.

 

Can you post a picture of the "light-pressure plastic clamps" that you used to stop the coolant flow?

 

I can do better than that. Here is what we used: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes