http://www.designengineering.com/pro...p&pid=57&tid=1

Well, I was doing some research on a sprayer setup for the Intercooler heat exchanger. Surprise Surprise, I stumbled on this prefab kit with everything I need for only $94. For that I figure its worth a try. I assume that a mix of alcohol and H2O would do the trick.

Who on here has actually done a sprayer setup, and did it make a difference?

 

I had recently talked to Bob Brady at Renntech and was asking him about how to get the intercooler to run cooler. I told him that I had read where someone had hooked up a cooling mist to spray the heat exchanger, he laughed and said "now that's the cowboy way". He had mentioned something like you are talking about and I've been planning on getting back with him to see exactly what he was talking about and if they were offering something in a kit. I'm sure it would be big bucks since it was coming from Renntech, I know my car has more pull before it reaches full operating temp.

 

Spraying water-to-air heat exchangers is not a very effective way to reduce IAT. Much more effective on air-to-air intercoolers.

 

I'm not familiar with the srt6 intercooler, but it is a water to air system, so I don't think its possible to use this. I think your better off making a methanol water injection system that sprays directly into the manifold. The great thing about using alcohol is that it has a cooling effect on the air charge, this is much cheaper way to go than purchasing anything from Renntech and probably more efficient.

This will give you some ideas on a home brew kit, most of this stuff can be ordered from McMasterCarr http://alcoholkits.tripod.com/ this is mostly for GN's.

The price is right, $300 will have you making another 20-40 hp, that's something renntech cant do, lol go for it!

 

A methanol water injection system is what Bob at Renntech was talking about I believe. And I sure that buying a system like this from Renntech would probably be a bit pricey, but it would built right and with no guessing games.

 

Why not just run your Air Conditioning system to the intercooler (new intercooler element would be needed as well as a bunch of plumbing changes).

Some basic discussion can be found here.

I personally like the option of an AC chilled glycol solution in the intercooler system (separate from the engine cooling system) similar to Ford's Lightning prototype.

More plumbing, but it could be done... Also depends upon your application. If you are going to race on a 1/4 mile track, you can simply pre-chill your intercooler solution. If you want this for instant street power or a road course... you will need to have some way to chill the solution during off WOT so as not to rob the engine of power.

Cheers!

 

That's an interesting suggestion, but I'm not trying to invest 15% of the purchase price of the car or void the warranty. Not to mention that sounds WAY beyond my personal level of ability and resources. I've thought about the direct h2o injection systems, but I'm not too familiar with them and would assume it would cause a warranty issue. I can't see the DEI sprayer being a warranty issue...

 

How about this?

http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=9

Or This?

http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=Cool150

Do our cars have a 0-5 Volt MAF Sensor?

 

The most effective way I've found to drop intake temps is to spray a methanol/water mist solution directly into the intercooler. I tried misting into the intake pre-TB first, and wasn't near as effective.

I got my kit at alcohol-injection.com, with progressive controller, after shipping was a little over $300. I really like it though. I can post more info if people are interested.

I attached pics on where I installed mine. As I said, directly into the intercooler. Sorry the pics are blurry, didn't realize it until after I put everything back together.

- Rasoul

 

Whatever kit you get for water/meth injection, make sure that the check valve is warrantied and of good quality. If not, water/meth leaks into your intake or IC when the car is off and you get serious issues. SRTforums has lots of threads about that (SRT-4 related mostly).

Also, if you tune and your exhaust gas temps are high due to tuning or timing advance, you have to make sure that the water/meth comes on at the right times, ALL the time, or the heat build up can melt a piston or piston ring. Again, this comes from SRTforums, mostly on the SRT-4's.

EGT temps on the SRT-6 may not be as high though, but there can be a downside to water/meth injection if it's not working properly or tuned to come on correctly, especially at high RPMs and temps.

 

Still researching... I have been looking on the SRTFORUMS at these issues...

 

MMZ actually has one of the better methods by using the AC compressor... There are intercoolers that have alternating odd / even pipes that run the freon (or the EPA friendly stuff) thru all the odd numbered lines and the cooling water thru the even numbered lines. The SRT leaves alot of possibilities for performance improvement in this area since it shares the engine cooling system as it's only source for cooling fluid... This cooling water temp will usually run 185 degrees +/- a few degrees... And the Charge Air Cooling System Heat Exchanger is VERY small...

First thing I would look at is a larger heat exchanger from someone like Bell and then trying to supply it with it's own isolated fluid source that isn't being pre-heated by running thru the engine cooling system... Also insulate the thin aluminum plumbing pipes that carry the fluid thru the engine compartment...

 

www.snowperformance.net

I have this system on my diesel, wow what a difference in performance and it dropped my EGT'S 200 degree's with a 50/50 mix it made 80 more hp and with straight water it made 40 hp, not a cheap item but for the money it was worth it...

 

Ah, almost forgot to mention -- I had to add a solenoid to my kit, to kick on only when the pump kicks on, otherwise you quickly lose methanol when under vacuum. It has a one way check valve so nothing comes out under boost, but vacuum and siphoning can occur if the nozzle is post TB without a solenoid.

Progressive controller is ONLY way to go. And the Devil's Own setup is pretty easy to wire and easier to tune.

You have to keep in mind, you're not going to get much for HP gains from this. It may be different on a diesel from the way it combusts, but on our cars do not expect that much HP gains just from adding a methanol mixture. Your extra power comes from the ability to safely add other upgrades. For example, I got mine because adding a pulley adds heat, and I wanted to counter that heat. The best place to put the nozzle is the hottest place your intake gets, as it will build boost by flash evaporation on a hot surface. It expanded my air when it evaporated (thus more pressure), then combusted after mixing with fuel with a net higher octane. Basically... this is a more permanent, higher RPM, full time octane boost. If you've ever used octane boost in your vehicle, then you know not to expect any power from the product itself, but more like power from the ability to safely advance your timing without detonation. Since our cars advance timing based on MAP pressure, then if you upgrade your pulley I would recommend this for heat and timing advances.

 

A fellow member by the screen name of screaminjoe has had great success with his own water injection kit. Here is a post where he includes his ET. Running mid 12s from the stock's mid 13s is quite a huge improvement in horsepower and torque.

 

Those are impressive gains. What I refer to is the theory behind water/methanol injection. Every site will tell you the same regarding HP gains. As far as my car, I had a lot of other stuff done to it so I cannot attest to changes from stock vs with methanol. Props to his gains, although I didn't really see much difference in mine until after I tapped the intercooler with it. I'm curious to see what size nozzle he's running.

 

Well I've been reading all this and had a couple ideas running through my head.
Basic Parts list:
Summit racing sealed battery box
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=SUM%2DG1231&N=700+115 &autoview=sku
RCI 1 gallon fuel cell
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=RCI%2D2010A&N=700+115 &autoview=sku
Johnson CM30 pump
http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/jabsco.html

Various adapters/fittings/Lines

To address the first issue of isolating the coolant for the intercooler:

Mount battery box in trunk with hole drilled for ice vent/drain
Mount RCI fuel cell inside box attach lines and fittings run to engine bay and seal all holes in box
Replace crap stock pump with Johnson and route new lines accordingly
Est. about $400
On track days or whenever you could pack the box with some regular ice or perhaps a little dry ice. Even without the ice I'm sure the temps will be lower and the system will be more efficient having the coolant in the car, separate from engine coolant and with more capacity.
Could go one step further and replace the exchanger but it will be more costly and fitment could be a bit*h?
http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...ducts_id=11828

Along the same lines you could mount another RCI cell in the box(looking at the dimensions should fit) for a water/alcohol injection system and super cool that with either form of ice.

Just my 2 cents on the subject. All in theory at this point.