If you want I can scan my invoice for you guys and post it as a pdf, maybe it might help if you take it with you to the dealer? Your problem sounds exactly like mine. Mine would go through one whole cranking cycle about 5-7 seconds, and not start. I would reset the key, and then start it again and bam it would start like normal. Even though I'm not happy with the dealers service, I'm glad they fixed my car.

Cruzinquick

 

Cruzin,
That definitely couldn't hurt, and may be helpful.
I plan to leave the car with them pretty soon to get the headlights replaced, the rattlin' hatch TSB, door wind-noise, and try to have them check out the hard start.
It's a bit embarassing to hop into the $48k sticker price vehicle at a car show after just preaching to someone how much of a 'good buy' it was and how it only has 1500 miles, and then the dang thing cranks for 5-7 seconds only to stumble for a few more seconds once it finally fires.

 

Thank you, but I dont think your scan will help me. I printed your post, and it had the test and everything in the numbers, apparently. They claim they did the test you listed, and my car is within spec. 58PSI when running and 46PSI when off, if I remember correctly. They claim that 32PSI is the cuttoff to be within spec, so they dont feel there is anything wrong with my fuel pump.

I have video taped the phenomenon, so maybe I should take the video to another dealer with your invoice numbers. Hmmm.

Eric

 

Eric,

Any way you can host that video so I can compare it to my symptom?

SQ

 

I don't know enough about the mechanics of this car yet, but they changed the fuel pump outside the tank. It's my understanding that the one inside the tank is a one piece unit with the tank. That's is what was explained to me. Specifically that it was the one outside of the tank. I would try a different shop. Shawn your problem is exactly what I was experiencing. Mine must have been worst, because of the gas odor that mine had. It had to do with the initial pressurizing of the fuel system. It has to be tested after the car has sat for a long while. Once it starts it's already pressurized. After the initial cranking, the car must sit again then test it. Hope this helps.

Cruzinquick

 

I am not sure...the video is on my phone. I'll see what I can do.

 

Typically you can send a video message to an email address the same way you send a text message.

If you want to give it a shot, S_Queeney@hotmail.com

Thanks,
SQ

 

sorry, can only add numbers, no e-mail addresses to the "send" field. I will transfer it to my computer when I get home, then e-mail it.

 

Mine has never had the smell...but it does make sense that if I let it sit and lose pressure in the system, it wont fire right away.

However, after sitting overnight, it has no trouble starting. This is only an issue after being driven, then sits for 10-30 mins, then it has an issue. What I am thinking is the computer/fuel systems primes the car differently when the car is 'cold', compared to when it is warm. When the car has sat for 10-30 mins, the car is still at operating temperature and the fuel system's process for priming the car may differ compared to how it primes the car when the engine is cold. Just a thought. Closed loop/open loop stuff...

The ONLY thing I notice after the car has sat over night is the car will sometimes 'stumble' a bit upon start up. I attribute this to it being 'cold', and it smoothes itself out very quickly.

The car seems to perform just fine...plenty of power. But I've seen hand-crank-started Model 'A's start faster than this thing, which is a shame! Even worse, it doesn't do it all the time...

SQ