Good work Gang!

The stock intake "Chokes Off" 25 potential ponies from your car.... It reaffirms what I've been feeling about all the After Market Intakes -

It doesn't matter what intake for the SRT6 you decide to go with.
Any intake the eliminates the stock choke points is going to do the job, the engine pulls the air - the intake only restricts the airflow (filters, bends, opening sizes, etc..)

It just comes down to age old consumer marketing points; price, preferences and brand loyalty....

 

He only used the SL55 "Y" and not the boxes or intake tubes. Meaning he kept the radiator supports (choke point) and stock boxes (much smaller) which limited the air follow to the bigger "Y". The larger boxes and intake tubes make huge difference.

 

Thanks alot Gang for all the dynos! ive always loved the look of the sl55 intake over the other two but was iffy of getting it because i wanted to maximize the performance so i thought i should go with a CAI but im ordering a sl55 right now because of you!

 

Glad to have helped!

 

SaWeet! I'm thinking of getting the SL55 intake also and the green filters to replace the stock ones.

 

Whats the cheapest place to get the sl55 intake and how much is it?

 

LET sold me mine for around $50 less + free shipping then any on-line MB parts store that I called. I got mine a part of a package deal with the 185 pulley.. but I think they are around $360.00 complete.

Click on the SL55 link in my signature for the individual part numbers and give LET and / or some part places...

 

Did you ever get a copy of these dyno sheets? Thanks for putting the effort into getting the car on the dyno!

 

please notice, we showed all the stock pulls versus all the cai pulls, not just the worst stock pull versus the best cai pull

 

I believe what really matters is where the intake ingests air from, ie how cool the source and how air turbulence is controlled in the intake tract. The air is traveling so fast that the metal tube is only an issue at idle and crawling speeds. The problem with a Y or T is how the air crashes entering the manifold. For instance, in the case of some V-8 cooling systems, the connection of the 2 cylinder banks in the intake manifold before the thermostat will flow one side at a time. The hotter cylinder bank, or side with the most pressure will flow until the pressure or heat from the opposite side is greater. So you have a situation where its one or the other cycling back and forth constantly. I don't know much about air dynamics but no matter the size of the tube or tubes, the transition into the intake is important. I like the single tube for the dynamic and harmonic control of the air, and the better designs will have taken this in account. Velocity is important also. If the air is crashing in a dual design, it will hurt velocity too. I'm not saying a dual design is bad or inferior, just it's real hard to make it do what one would like it to do i.e. be better than a single tube with a well thought out filter location.

Les

 

I have owned both the BDJ and Needswings intakes and although the sound of the supercharger is louder with the BDJ, I do feel I picked up HP gains with the Needswings. I have not been to the track to check 1/4 mile times due to the extreme Texas heat, but I can confirm that the car looses more traction at a 30mph roll with the Needswings than the BDJ. I would assume this is from a cooler more dense air charge translating to more HP and wheelspin~

My vote will be for the Needswing unit and Rob is a great guy to work with. The fit and finish is perfect and the unit is well designed.

Just my .02

 

Just trying to do my part . The only dyno sheet I have is for the max run, which came in at 320. It doesn’t contain the tq, for some reason it was spiking causing the hp to skew. They removed the tq data and then things seemed normal, so I will snap a picture and post it on Sunday. I didn’t take the worst pull and compare it to the best either. Did I ………..Called the company where dyno was done to get actual numbers and here were the pulls provided to me over the phone.

Stock
254, 277, 296
Average 275.66

SL55
298, 296, 320
Average 304.66

Average Gain
29


I attempted to be conservative with those preliminary numbers, since I didn’t have the sheets nor could I remember the exact pulls. I have another Dyno-Jet run tentatively scheduled for 08/13/08 with the SL55/181 combo.

 

I am a bit confused and am looking for some clarification regarding this intake.

I currently have the Code3 intake and am looking to upgrade it, perhaps to the SL55 intake.

1) how do the gains compare with the LET intake (which I believe utilizes the SL55 splitter)?

2) what exactly is the choke point regarding the radiator supports and how is this fixed?

3) why do fuses need to be messed with for installation?

 

One thing to remember is that in the Crossfire under boost at about 14 PSI the velocity of the air in the throttle body is about 150MPH. There is little time for the inlet charge to pick up heat from the intake piping. I had tried to insulate the intake pipe to gain a cooling effect which did not materilaze. At 200 feet per second the air is in the intake for about 20 milliseconds which is not long. Twice that for dual intake pipes of course.

Lower intake restrictions do add lots of power and if you remember that I measured the inlet suction at WOT to see what it was. With a Needswings intake I had 30" of water which is about 1psi lost due to restrictions, bends- filter and such. With two pipes I gained one psi on the boost and by the dyno 35 hp at 2500 rpm and 12 hp at 5500 rpm. It would be interesting to do a dyno pull without the intake just for grins.

Warm air ( internal combustion ) engines respond to denser charge and cooler air temps. The fall temperatures will assist with both, yeah.

Enjoy Woody

 

not to be a jerk or get on another tangent, but, the 1/8mile is seemingly useless for measuring a car's power thoroughly.

in my banality, i know that the 1/4mile is also not as effective as running a car through the twisties, etc, but the motor needs to reach higher gears, higher rpms etc in order to see it's peak power. ESPECIALLY on a boosted car.

 

1) I’m not sure what intake LET is/was using but they do/were selling the complete SL55 intake. Minimizing any restriction will net you some gains, the more restrictions you minimize the more gains to be had.

2) The OEM intake system utilizes black inlet supports (located on bothsides of the radiator) that the intake tubes connect too. When going with the SL55 setup, you remove the black inlet supports. The larger diameter intake tubes of the SL55 setup extend out where those smaller diameter supports were. This allows for more flow…..

3) The fuses are not removed for intake installation reasons. They are removed to disable the traction control system when dyno’ing the car. I think it has been said, there is no need to continue this practice.

Hope that helps...

::EDIT::
I noticed your driving a C32 AMG, not sure if those radiator supports are on your vehicle.

 

I understand your point but I needed a tool too measure the gains my mods provided. The 1/8th mile was available and I know it’s not a true measure of power because my boost only reaches 16 when I have reached 19 in higher RPM. However, I can tell you for 1/8th of a mile how my performance has increased with each mod and how bad you would get WHIPPED!

 

thanks. that is helpful. i do indeed have those black inlets, but are those different than the supports? or perhaps they are attached them or are them?

 

i'm curious, what about someone making aluminum inlet-pipes(that lead to the airboxes) for the SL55 intake that are teflon-coated and super slick for air velocity and maybe coated on the outside to keep heat off them.....?

plus the aluminum would make the supercharger sound more prevalent!

thoughts?

 

That might be a good idea. You could then make them fit the feed through at the radiator.

MikeR