Well, it was a warm day and according to this sheet, the ambient temp was 97 degrees. So considering the heat I think it's about average where it should be with 3000 miles. The problem is they didn't know how to hook things up to get the rpm's, torque and air/fuel ratio. I couldn't help them not knowing myself. So all I got is the HP. It's weird how many people have never seen an SRT-6 before. So what do I tell the guys the next time I go to hook things up correctly? By the way, this was done in 3rd gear. They said they dyno all cars in 3rd gear below 500 hp. Doesn't 4th gear give you truer numbers?
296.77 whp with rear cats removed. Rest of car is entirely stock.

 

Congrats Mimi, those are very good numbers! To obtain the rpms you need to remove the plastic wire loom on one of the spark plug wires. The easiest to get to is the driver side front, just lift up the air box and carefully use a razor to remove about a 1"piece. Also, remove fuse 17 and 18 in order for the car to not engage t/c. I dont think youll be able to obtain tq with out a locking tq converter(may be wrong here). My tq always reads like 600 or something crazy. As far as a/f, they will just have to stick the probe in the tailpipe, but imo its not necessary for such little mods and it not very accurate that far past the cats either.

 

You'll want to do it in 4th gear, that is direct drive, 3rd gear gives you torque multiplication, and 5th is overdrive which reduces torque. Overdrive is for economy and that''s it, kinda why it's hard to find a trans with a double overdrive. As far as the hp and AF numbers, they should have a 5 gas analyzer to stick in the tailpipe for A2F numbers and an inductive pickup to go around a spark plug wire. No need to cut anything.

 

Like stated, the dyno run has to be in 4th gear(which is our 1.1 ratio) Anthony(TvT) and I just dynoed my car today(to get a baseline) on a mustang dynamometer. The car laid down some good numbers! 318hp to the wheels and 327 pounds of torque on the first pass. Factors to about 400 at the crank, which i initally was guessing I had. A/F avg 12.5 and the curves were nice and smooth.

 

Old thread but relevant. I plan on dynoing my car tomorrow and wanted to know if those fuses need to be taken out. Why can't you just disable tcs by pressing the button? Also is it true they will only be able to go to 5500rpms due to the front wheels not moving?? That is ridiculous!

 

I have dyno'd my SRT several times and never pulled a fuse, and never had a problem other than keeping it in the desired gear for the run. Mine is tuned which has everything to do with lack of traction but nothing to do with traction control.