Ok install complete.

Test drive complete

Conclusion:

Runs amazing just like it did before I was having problems. Now the only thing i noticed was odd was when I drifted down this hill going about 30-35 mph (foot off the gas) it would not shift. Rising to 3k rpm's i gas it some gas and it shifted. Any thoughts on this???

Im afraid to drive it now. Who knows another 4 months down the road it will happen again.

 

I recently bought a SRT-6 with 60 miles on the odometer and it drove really strange for at least 100 miles. It would jerk shifting to 2nd. and seemed undecided (if thats possible) on what to do. Now, the shifts have smoothed out, it holds the gear during decel (doesn't always shift when I expect it too) but I like what it's doing. I suggest giving it a few miles to relearn the intake (if thats possible) (dang smart cars) Mine went from being schitzo kamakazie to a dream with the 100 miles. Just a thought.

Les

 

When I installed my sprint booster, it didn't seem to make any difference...I did the throttle reset and the car came alive...I for one, don't believe a word your mechanic told you...they probably found something, just want to be right...an air intake is just that and the problem would have arose a lot sooner than 4 months...I would drive it and enjoy it, and find a new dealer to do my work...it took my dealership a week to figure a problem out for me, a sensor went bad in the SC...wasn't the pump (yet)...but they at least kept an open mind...some mechanics can be arrogant about those of us that like to do our own work with aftermarket installs, some find them interesting...find one that like the latter...just my opinion...

 

It wasn't that they were arrogant. I do like this dealer and they seem to listen to me since i've taken it in 3 times with the same problem pretty much.

Funny thing is when they were doing "diagnostic testing" I mentioned it could be the IC pump and both mechanics agreed with me but, they had to follow procedure from Chrysler Engineering. Since they asked If I had done any after market with it.

Basically I was told they can't help me if I start adding any mods to my car.

Although your right a problem would have occurred much earlier than 4 months and thats something to consider.

 

yes please report back, when mt ic failed the tech at the dealer 1st told me
the card had a rev limiter and would shut down at 98...
i told him he was full os chit, that the stock did not shut off at 98

i went to a different dealer ... they ordered a ic pump with out even putting the car an the ramp's

 

sounds like the dealership didint get the car hot enough for the bad ic pump to show itself, they most likely just drove it around the block instead of jumping onto the freeway for 10 minutes. if you dont want to have to deal with the dealerships on this anymore we can get you a replacement bosch pump

 

Well the problem has started up a couple days after I got the car back.

Re-tested both intakes for a second time and I was able to replicate the problem. It runs fine when I disconnect the battery for 20 mins and go for a drive.

Drove for 30 mins first in the city then on the highway. Once I got off the highway it instantly crapped out. Im wondering if this is due to a faulty sprintbooster, I remember some people mentioned when they got off the highway they would experince loss of power.

Also I waited a couple hours, started up the car and its still having problems.

If it runs fine after I disconnect the battery then it can't be IC issue related could it?

 

Really mysterious man... Maybe a bad intake air temperature sensor? Thats a completely random guess but it sort of makes sense. Bad sensor + more air = bad reading and s/c clutch disengagement.

Who knows...

 

Your right it does make sense. Could be a number of things Im just trying to eliminate them one at a time.

I just don't understand what it means when the RPM's fly up but it doesn't connect with any power. I can literally redline the car trying to get to 40 mph when normally I can reach that speed with ease.

I ordered a IC pump should come in sometime next week. If that doesn't fix it then I don't know.

Going to check the sprint booster today.

 

My theory:

The car will disengage the supercharger clutch if the coolant temps are too high. (IC pump) By disconnecting the battery, you could be killing the high temp codes, and then it re-engages the supercharger.

Can anyone confirm/deny?

 

No, the car disengages the s/c clutch based on intake air temperature, not coolant temps. So if the IC pump stops pumping, then the s/c heats up, and the intake air heats up, and the intake air temp sensor senses it and then the computer disengages s/c clutch.

He could have a bad IC pump, but the fact that it drove fine with the stock intake makes me think its something else, like air readings.

The intake air temp sensor is only about $14, you may want to order one. I replaced mine as preventative maintenance, dont remember the part number, but it was for the slk32.

Also, I would NEVER trust an aftermarket part like the sprintbooster when it comes to diagnosing problems. Definately unplug it while diagnosing the problem.

 

Actually the car ran fine with both intakes after disconnecting the battery, but didn't after I got off the highway going the same route.

So its either the pump is bad giving the air sensor an overheating code or the sensor is bad even though the pump is functional.

Thanks for narrowing it down and it does make sense. Pump comes tomorrow probably going to have an independent mechanic install it or do it myself (rather not do it myself since I don't have a lift which in my opinion would help ALOT).

Tried getting the dealer to quote me on the install but they don't have a standard quote for an IC pump. I got $230 for an estimated guess.