I did the LET heat exchander and 178* thermostat, but the engine gauge still sits one click above middle. Any solutions on how to get the car to run cooler? also at what temps does the cooling fan come on? Thanks

 

Greetings, I have been soooo through this.

First the computer will not allow the engine to operate at the 178 degree mark as it will restrict the fan motor speed if needed to raise the temp to factory territory.

Second if you add a 600 ohm resistor in parallel with the temp sensor by the stat housing, you will cause the engine to think the motor is too hot and will speed up the fan, cooling the water. If you pull OFF the resistor and run back to see the temp gauge, you will see it at only 2 clicks up on the gauge ( about 175 degrees). This is not at real solution and thus I did not present it. The motor runs cooler BUT the computer does not know that, net sum is zero.

If you cut out the grill diverters you would see the temps drop as I did on 90 degree days, now some progress.

On a cold morning the computer will throw a code saying that the water temp did not get up to Snuff, something like PO208. I have changed my stat from the first design of 170 to 180 degrees to see if that is enough to keep the peace with the computer.

Look up the posts that I have started to see and follow the progress with pictures. Hope that this is all good and helps.

My biggest study is the I/C circuit and getting a H/E that works. I believe that is a bigger need as we have to cool the charge as the i/c pump and supercharger are full time operation except for starting and in idle conditions and reverse gear.

Enjoy Woody.

 

Waldig,

Is there a way that the average guy can install a manual/auto switch for the fan?

Steve

 

Yes, but may I ask what you are seeking to achieve?

The resistor will cause the computer to send a digital pulse train to the fan motor controller-mounted on the driver fender just behind the headlight. That is a power transistor switcher that modulates the fan voltage.

When the car heats up the computer will begin providing (via the module) an average DC voltage to the motor of about 4 volts and as needed increase it to 9 or more volts. 12 volts which is closer to 13.5 makes it run too fast and a bit scray sounding so be careful with the just putting power to the fan idea, the power module is cubic expensive for the repair of a "lets see sort of experiment".

Opening the grill will assist in making the car cool better and I am almost ready to start a list of the cooling changes that I have made, in order of complexity.

The resistor will speed up the fan and if you switch it in when you park the car for a while it makes the engine hard to start because it knows the transmission is cold and the water is hot??????????? could this be a simple way to theft proof the car from someone that had you key???

Let me know where you wanna go and Ill see if I can assist, Woody

I did not see the thermostat at LET site, what is its ratings?

 

I believe the LET thermostat is 178* it was the one that was made by a gentleman over on MB world.

 

I have the LET low temp stat but do not know if it is 178 or not. My goal is once in a while I like to run the car at the drag strip. When waiting in line (sometimes forever) I want to keep the temps down as low as possible while waiting in line.

Steve

 

It's all about emissions -- the premise being higher operating temperatures burn cleaner. If you're not squeemish, you could hard wire the cooling fan and add a toggle switch to control. But you'd have to cap the circuit that controlled the fan so that the ECU still thinks its there. There are a few options to do that, but do you really want to risk frying the computer?

I suspect (but haven't tried) that an option to hard-wire a cooling fan might be cobbled together out of those auxilliary laptop cooling fans. They're very thin so do facilitate some creative options.

For the truly brave of heart, has anyone ever done a shaker-type hood?