SRT6 Superchager Rebuild Kit ?
Does anyone know of a rebuild kit for a SRT6 Supercharger. I replaced both the pulley bearing and idler pulley and a lot of ugly noise is still coming from inside the SC. Actually a lot worse than before. Dealership wants $6K to replace the whole SC and isn't interested in looking inside it. HELP ! Has anyone ever had the supercharger apart for a rebuild?
Karl
Karl
Ebay now has one, I have the other. Yes, I will be taking one apart and will document the whole process for the forum.
In my case, it seems that the SC shaft likes to turn some all the time. Maybe that's normal. Does anyone know? The SC shaft and inside balance ring turns when the SC clutch is not engaged. A simple way to engage the SC clutch when idling is to turn on the A/C. That engages the SC clutch and you can hear it click in. The rotor shaft seems to be turning with or without the clutch engaged. Not sure if that means a bad pulley. Only the pulley bearing was replaced, not the whole pulley. It grinds just a little bit when SC clutch is disengaged and then really grinds bad when engaged. It feels solid (no shaft play) and sounds fine if you just spun it by hand with the engine off. You should be able to put a 14mm socket and electric drill and spin it up to test for noise and vibration of the shaft alone without the pulley rotating. But I guess the only way to tell for sure is to take the thing apart.
In my case, it seems that the SC shaft likes to turn some all the time. Maybe that's normal. Does anyone know? The SC shaft and inside balance ring turns when the SC clutch is not engaged. A simple way to engage the SC clutch when idling is to turn on the A/C. That engages the SC clutch and you can hear it click in. The rotor shaft seems to be turning with or without the clutch engaged. Not sure if that means a bad pulley. Only the pulley bearing was replaced, not the whole pulley. It grinds just a little bit when SC clutch is disengaged and then really grinds bad when engaged. It feels solid (no shaft play) and sounds fine if you just spun it by hand with the engine off. You should be able to put a 14mm socket and electric drill and spin it up to test for noise and vibration of the shaft alone without the pulley rotating. But I guess the only way to tell for sure is to take the thing apart.
Last edited by kldiet; Sep 10, 2008 at 10:26 PM.
I think once its shot, thats it!
The supercharger cann't be fixed!
The supercharger cann't be fixed!
At idle the 'draw thru air' causes the impellers to rotate, as the engine breathes and developes a low pressure "vacuum" on the outlet. Mechanically there is little resistance to moving.
Now if it is noisy, you need to address the problem SOON as the clearances are tight and if the bearings allow contact of the rotors, the repair is going to be more costly for sure. The case and impeller fit closely, its a real carefully assembled device.
Woody, Enjoy the day
Now if it is noisy, you need to address the problem SOON as the clearances are tight and if the bearings allow contact of the rotors, the repair is going to be more costly for sure. The case and impeller fit closely, its a real carefully assembled device.
Woody, Enjoy the day
Originally Posted by kldiet
Ebay now has one, I have the other. Yes, I will be taking one apart and will document the whole process for the forum.
In my case, it seems that the SC shaft likes to turn some all the time. Maybe that's normal. Does anyone know? The SC shaft and inside balance ring turns when the SC clutch is not engaged. A simple way to engage the SC clutch when idling is to turn on the A/C. That engages the SC clutch and you can hear it click in. The rotor shaft seems to be turning with or without the clutch engaged. Not sure if that means a bad pulley. Only the pulley bearing was replaced, not the whole pulley. It grinds just a little bit when SC clutch is disengaged and then really grinds bad when engaged. It feels solid (no shaft play) and sounds fine if you just spun it by hand with the engine off. You should be able to put a 14mm socket and electric drill and spin it up to test for noise and vibration of the shaft alone without the pulley rotating. But I guess the only way to tell for sure is to take the thing apart.
In my case, it seems that the SC shaft likes to turn some all the time. Maybe that's normal. Does anyone know? The SC shaft and inside balance ring turns when the SC clutch is not engaged. A simple way to engage the SC clutch when idling is to turn on the A/C. That engages the SC clutch and you can hear it click in. The rotor shaft seems to be turning with or without the clutch engaged. Not sure if that means a bad pulley. Only the pulley bearing was replaced, not the whole pulley. It grinds just a little bit when SC clutch is disengaged and then really grinds bad when engaged. It feels solid (no shaft play) and sounds fine if you just spun it by hand with the engine off. You should be able to put a 14mm socket and electric drill and spin it up to test for noise and vibration of the shaft alone without the pulley rotating. But I guess the only way to tell for sure is to take the thing apart.
BTW the pulley can be removed c/o the Code three instruction, if you are into the garage and such. THis would allow you to see if the clutch surface is worn out. Ill try to post a photo of my pulley ( not the clutch face, the opposite-pulley side) for your info. Its smallish and there fore puney (spelling?)
Woody, ENJOY
Woody, ENJOY
Last edited by waldig; Sep 11, 2008 at 12:24 PM.
Since the local Chrysler dealer and their trained Crossfire mechanic have never seen an SRT-6 before I showed up, I think a trip down to the local MB dealer is in order. Maybe they have worked on one of these on an SLK 32 AMG before. Looking to get information on what other parts I may need for the job. I'll also have them take a listen and see what they think. I have another SC (eBay) coming ($$$). So what was suppose to be a 15 minute $35 dollar job is now, well, let's not say how costly this will be until it's all over. I also found out that the extended warranty that I was suppose to have purchased through the bank never got added to the contract. I didn't catch that when signing all the papers. Such joyous news. I would never have bought this without an extended warranty added in. Not sure any 3rd party warranty would have covered this anyway. Has anyone gone through this experience before (not the change the subject).
Karl
Karl
Call the company Brian has listed and pick their brains, see if they will supply you with a bearing set-up or at least give you a company that will supply the replacement bearings, that maybe all that is needed. Is our system a sealed oil unit or is there an oil feed line to the unit?
I received my replacement SC today ($1K off eBay) and plan to start on the replacement project this weekend. I took the car down to the local MB dealership yesterday and they were very friendly and their master MB tech talked to me for 20 minutes (no charge). Great folks. There was no real vibration to speak of (not sure what the Chrysler tech was feeling). At idle, the SC was spinning pretty fast (could not brake it by hand) and the tech said that this was not how the MB SL32 AMGs he has worked on function. He said the rotors should only spin when the SC clutch is engaged and not at idle. Most of the noise seemed to be coming from the clutch area and not the SC. It is especially loud when the clutch is engaged. But neither of us could really tell for sure if it was in the clutch or the front SC bearing. He said he was never seen one of these SCs go bad. Either way, the clutch is not replaceable and is part of the SC unit. New pulley bearing and idler pulley were already replaced. Chrysler wanted $6K for a new SC. MB wanted only $2900 for the same part (A1120900080). Go figure that one. The used replacement unit I got today seems to be in really good shape (18K miles).
More on this saga to come.
More on this saga to come.
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