First problem for my SRT-6
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First problem for my SRT-6
I'll try to keep this as short as possible and if it needs to be moved to a different section, a mod can feel free...but any help is greatly appreciated.
My SRT-6 had been sitting in a normal garage for the past three days, but I went to take it out last night and it started up fine and we drove it downtown (about 10 miles and couple WOT bursts) with no issues. Parked it at our first location for about an hour or so, then drove it a couple blocks to dinner (no issues) for about an hour, then a couple more blocks to our final location and only stayed here about 30 minutes (no issues at this point).
When we left the final location to go home it started right up, but sounded like it has a HUGE cam lope or like it was trying to keep an idle...but not getting enough fuel. Very rough and shaky. Pressing the gas pedal did nothing. It will not start at all now, but will turn over and try to start up just fine. I put about 2 more gallons of gas in it (because it was a little low and I thought the gauge might be off). Nothing.
What are we thinking alternator?...something worse?
As a side note, I was nearly ready to post up on here that the previous couple weeks I would come to a stoplight and here the alternator "whir"...if my lights were on you could see them get a little brighter, like it was trying to keep up when the engine wasn't under load...
Am I on the right track?
My SRT-6 had been sitting in a normal garage for the past three days, but I went to take it out last night and it started up fine and we drove it downtown (about 10 miles and couple WOT bursts) with no issues. Parked it at our first location for about an hour or so, then drove it a couple blocks to dinner (no issues) for about an hour, then a couple more blocks to our final location and only stayed here about 30 minutes (no issues at this point).
When we left the final location to go home it started right up, but sounded like it has a HUGE cam lope or like it was trying to keep an idle...but not getting enough fuel. Very rough and shaky. Pressing the gas pedal did nothing. It will not start at all now, but will turn over and try to start up just fine. I put about 2 more gallons of gas in it (because it was a little low and I thought the gauge might be off). Nothing.
What are we thinking alternator?...something worse?
As a side note, I was nearly ready to post up on here that the previous couple weeks I would come to a stoplight and here the alternator "whir"...if my lights were on you could see them get a little brighter, like it was trying to keep up when the engine wasn't under load...
Am I on the right track?
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From: IN
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
original battery? original fuel filter? have you checked all connections? I would start with those questions and go from there...this comment is for everyone, never run your cars w/ electric fuel pumps low on fuel all the time...they need fuel in the tank to keep them running cool....yours wouldn't be a fuel pump problem, but could be fuel filter..when you run your fuel low, not only does it heat up the fuel pump, but allow setiment in the tank to be sucked up into the fuel filter...runs rough, then you fill up and setiment falls back down into tank, car runs fine...always change your fuel filters when recommended...
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Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Originally Posted by oledoc2u
original battery? original fuel filter? have you checked all connections? I would start with those questions and go from there...this comment is for everyone, never run your cars w/ electric fuel pumps low on fuel all the time...they need fuel in the tank to keep them running cool....yours wouldn't be a fuel pump problem, but could be fuel filter..when you run your fuel low, not only does it heat up the fuel pump, but allow setiment in the tank to be sucked up into the fuel filter...runs rough, then you fill up and setiment falls back down into tank, car runs fine...always change your fuel filters when recommended...
...and yeah I'm assuming original battery and fuel filter...car has 41,000 miles and I am not the original owner...ah preventive maintenance...
Last edited by satellite; Oct 26, 2008 at 08:47 AM.
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From: IL
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Why not the fuel pump?
When turning the ingnition to on w/o trying to start do you hear the pumo?
Also our pumps are NOT in the tank. Check the filter as well as oledoc2u recommends.
When turning the ingnition to on w/o trying to start do you hear the pumo?
Also our pumps are NOT in the tank. Check the filter as well as oledoc2u recommends.
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From: North GA
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Originally Posted by satellite
Yeah, I'm thinking the fuel filter is the issue the more and more I look back. I also recently filled up with some fuel (last full tank) that I know had more ethanol than I normally ever put in my car. I suppose after sitting for 3 days that could have assisted in getting sediment moving through the filter.
...and yeah I'm assuming original battery and fuel filter...car has 41,000 miles and I am not the original owner...ah preventive maintenance...
...and yeah I'm assuming original battery and fuel filter...car has 41,000 miles and I am not the original owner...ah preventive maintenance...
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From: Tucson, AZ
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
It could be a bad crank position sensor, but I thought when they die they'll leave you stranded, rather than lugging put-put before hand.
A dead crank position sensor will certainly let your car turn over fine but not start up.
Dead crank position sensors have been reported numerous times but I wouldn't call it common.
You could look into the fuel-relay... The solder spots sometimes go bad and I forget the symptons of it but when the car gets hot the fuel pump stops working basically as it stops receiving power. Do a google for the srt-6 and slk32 fuel pump relay.
THe pump being bad itself is possible, but not common. WHat has been heard of (including for me) is the pressure valve in the fuel pump going bad causing loss of pressure when the car is off and making it hard to start. I haven't really heard of the actual pump mechanisms dieing and not pumping anymore.
You could be onto something with the alternator, but the car doesn't seem dead like it should be.
It won't startup at all anymore? Even if it sits there and things get cold and then you try again?
A dead crank position sensor will certainly let your car turn over fine but not start up.
Dead crank position sensors have been reported numerous times but I wouldn't call it common.
You could look into the fuel-relay... The solder spots sometimes go bad and I forget the symptons of it but when the car gets hot the fuel pump stops working basically as it stops receiving power. Do a google for the srt-6 and slk32 fuel pump relay.
THe pump being bad itself is possible, but not common. WHat has been heard of (including for me) is the pressure valve in the fuel pump going bad causing loss of pressure when the car is off and making it hard to start. I haven't really heard of the actual pump mechanisms dieing and not pumping anymore.
You could be onto something with the alternator, but the car doesn't seem dead like it should be.
It won't startup at all anymore? Even if it sits there and things get cold and then you try again?
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From: VA
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
UUGH, Before I started tearing into the fuel system and pump and filter and relay and controls. Why not check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail to see what you have. Loping does not sound fuel related to me IMHO. Woody, Enjoy.
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From: Currituck, NC
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Before you tear into it to far, put some SeaFoam gas treatment in it.
Since you ran it low and said that the fuel had Ethanol in it (attracts water), Try that first. If there is any condensation in it keeping it from running, that will take care of it. If that works get to the nearest gas station and put some good gas in it.
Best of luck.
Cheers,
KrzyFast
Since you ran it low and said that the fuel had Ethanol in it (attracts water), Try that first. If there is any condensation in it keeping it from running, that will take care of it. If that works get to the nearest gas station and put some good gas in it.
Best of luck.
Cheers,
KrzyFast
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Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Thanks for all the replies...I'll be looking into it some today (but I also work). Tomorrow will get it sorted out. Didn't pull a CEL that I could see, but I will look into that as well.
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From: Holland MI
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Does not sound like alternator symptoms. If that was failing, you would have trouble keeping the battery charged and turning the engine over. Lights would dim, not brighten.
Ethanol is a solvent (worse than gas) and it could have loosened up some crap in the tank and plugged the fuel filter (not so bad... that's it's job) or worse, the fuel injectors. I'd expect to find misfire codes if that's the case.
Let us know what you find out.
Ethanol is a solvent (worse than gas) and it could have loosened up some crap in the tank and plugged the fuel filter (not so bad... that's it's job) or worse, the fuel injectors. I'd expect to find misfire codes if that's the case.
Let us know what you find out.
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Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Originally Posted by Goldwing
Does not sound like alternator symptoms. If that was failing, you would have trouble keeping the battery charged and turning the engine over. Lights would dim, not brighten.
Ethanol is a solvent (worse than gas) and it could have loosened up some crap in the tank and plugged the fuel filter (not so bad... that's it's job) or worse, the fuel injectors. I'd expect to find misfire codes if that's the case.
Let us know what you find out.
Ethanol is a solvent (worse than gas) and it could have loosened up some crap in the tank and plugged the fuel filter (not so bad... that's it's job) or worse, the fuel injectors. I'd expect to find misfire codes if that's the case.
Let us know what you find out.
Anybody know where to get these parts for cheap(er)? Dealership wants $740 for parts and labor...and labor is under $200...
.
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From: VA
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Please consider checking the fuel pressure first, the pump should not be an issue but you can tell easy enough by confirming that you have good pressure. Splinter can get the specs if you dont have a cd for the cars service manual. Woody Enjoy.
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From: VA
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Found it, below Woody
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PRESSURE LEAK DOWN TEST
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump Pressure Test and the Fuel Pump Capacity Test.
CHECK VALVE OPERATION
The electric fuel pump outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank, and to maintain
fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when the pump is not operational. It also is used to keep the fuel supply
line full of gasoline when the pump is not operational. After 30 minutes the fuel pressure may drop to 2.5 bar (36
psi), but the liquid gasoline will remain in the fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel injectors. When the
fuel pump is activated, the fuel pressure should immediately (1-2 seconds) rise to specification.
Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a hot engine that has been shut down for a shout period of time may
be caused by either fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s), or fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in
the fuel pump. To determine the cause of this condition:
1. Remove the engine cover for access and disconnect the fuel inlet line at the fuel rail.
2. Connect the correct fuel line pressure test adapter tool between the disconnected fuel inlet line and fuel rail.
3. Connect Special Tool C-4799-B or equivalent to the test port on the test adapter tool.
4. Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
5. Observe the test gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 3.7 - 4.1 bar (54 - 60 psi).
6. Shut engine off.
7. Pressure should not fall below 2.5 bar (36 psi) after 30 minutes.
8. If pressure falls below 2.5 bar (36 psi) within 30 minutes, it must be determined if a fuel injector, the check valve
within the fuel pump, or a fuel tube/line is leaking.
9. Again, start the engine. After bringing to normal operating temperature, shut engine off.
I use a set of A/C gauges cause I have them and the threads are correct, see 54 - 60 PSIG, line #5. DO NOT TRY DRIVING WITH GAUGES CONNECTED PLEASE.
ENJOY
fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when the pump is not operational. It also is used to keep the fuel supply
line full of gasoline when the pump is not operational. After 30 minutes the fuel pressure may drop to 2.5 bar (36
psi), but the liquid gasoline will remain in the fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel injectors. When the
fuel pump is activated, the fuel pressure should immediately (1-2 seconds) rise to specification.
Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a hot engine that has been shut down for a shout period of time may
be caused by either fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s), or fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in
the fuel pump. To determine the cause of this condition:
1. Remove the engine cover for access and disconnect the fuel inlet line at the fuel rail.
2. Connect the correct fuel line pressure test adapter tool between the disconnected fuel inlet line and fuel rail.
3. Connect Special Tool C-4799-B or equivalent to the test port on the test adapter tool.
4. Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
5. Observe the test gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 3.7 - 4.1 bar (54 - 60 psi).
6. Shut engine off.
7. Pressure should not fall below 2.5 bar (36 psi) after 30 minutes.
8. If pressure falls below 2.5 bar (36 psi) within 30 minutes, it must be determined if a fuel injector, the check valve
within the fuel pump, or a fuel tube/line is leaking.
9. Again, start the engine. After bringing to normal operating temperature, shut engine off.
I use a set of A/C gauges cause I have them and the threads are correct, see 54 - 60 PSIG, line #5. DO NOT TRY DRIVING WITH GAUGES CONNECTED PLEASE.
ENJOY
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Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Thanks for that information Woody I will file that for future reference. My car right now...as it sits though...will not start at all. It will crank over, but not fire up. It did start momentarily last night, but had serious issues holding a steady idle. Then, after I shut it off, it would not start again.
Last edited by satellite; Oct 27, 2008 at 02:04 PM.
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Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Originally Posted by 70GT6
Why not the fuel pump?
When turning the ingnition to on w/o trying to start do you hear the pumo?
Also our pumps are NOT in the tank. Check the filter as well as oledoc2u recommends.
When turning the ingnition to on w/o trying to start do you hear the pumo?
Also our pumps are NOT in the tank. Check the filter as well as oledoc2u recommends.
I wish I was more mechanical, on my SRT-4 I was getting to the point where I probably could check all this stuff out on my own. Unfortunately, the dealership has the car right now.
I'm really thinking I caused this by the 10% or more ethanol that the car has probably never seen before...then sitting in the tank for 3 days and running it through the pump/filter. Would I be able to ask the dealership to check the crank sensor first...or if the fuel pump is bad...it's pretty clear that it's bad...?
Last edited by satellite; Oct 27, 2008 at 02:23 PM.
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From: AZ
Re: First problem for my SRT-6
Originally Posted by waldig
Found it, below Woody
I use a set of A/C gauges cause I have them and the threads are correct, see 54 - 60 PSIG, line #5. DO NOT TRY DRIVING WITH GAUGES CONNECTED PLEASE.
ENJOY
I use a set of A/C gauges cause I have them and the threads are correct, see 54 - 60 PSIG, line #5. DO NOT TRY DRIVING WITH GAUGES CONNECTED PLEASE.
ENJOY