That is the secondary air injection pump running. Mine has done that since I bought it. Comes on just after getting off of a freeway and goes off.

I tend to agree with the other members in regards to the crank position sensor being your startup problem.

 

Crank position sensor could be it, but he says it sometimes starts and comes to a death. I thought a bad CPS would not let it start at all?

Do some testing like Woody says but only if you're mechanically inclined... I hate messing with the fuel system but you gotta do what you gotta do!

Now, its my spare sensor soooo... But I have my old and working crank position sensor available if you want me to send it to you. If it fixes your problem maybe you could buy your own (about $70) and mail mine back PM me with your address if you want to try this.

Also, maybe smack around the fuel pump relay its right by the battery, these have gone bad before and usually punching it can tell enough of the story.

 

When my CPS went out it was at the track. The car started up but was VERY rough running, like missing, and then died. It did that a second time and the third time I gave it gas and it caught up and ran normal. I couldnt see the CEL behind the Cruise stalk and made two back to back runs before I noticed it. I then drove it home and the next day it wouldnt start at all.

MikeR

 

Mine occasionally lopes at start up like it's cammin'. It clears up after about a minute. I figured it had something to do with the ECU tune. Maybe not, but it's never created a problem. Given the sudden nature of the failure, I would guess it's related to something electrical.

As far as the "alternator" whine you hear at stoplights and idling is the Air Injection Pump and that is completely normal. It makes a whirring sound for about 5-10 seconds. It also draws a lot of current and makes the headlamps dim when it runs. The Air Injection Pump is located towards the front of the driver's side engine bay and has a hose that connects to either side of the engine intake manifolds. There is an aluminum coupler pipe the runs directly in front of the SC Pulley, you can't miss it.

 

OK, once again, thanks guys for all the help...there is LOTS of excellent information in here.

Have it narrowed down to Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter and then Crank Position Sensor...as this car is at the dealership (will not start at all...but will turn over). Do you think I should have them install a Crank Position Sensor first? They are saying Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter...but honestly I have come to disagree with pretty much anything dealerships say...and the price difference of CPS to Fuel goods would be about $500 just in parts...

 

The CPS is on the back side of the engine and is one connector and one bolt to change it. I can send you my spare if you want. If it works you can send me a replacement. Tell me where to send it if you want it.

MikeR

 

Allright, not to bring this thread back from the dead...as it can definitely die now...but problem is resovled. It really was the fuel pump and fuel filter.

I'm guessing the fuel filter probably could have needed replaced anyway (40k miles), but I just threw it off the deep end with the ethanol added and letting it sit for 3-4 days.

Thanks for all the help and offers to swap parts...you guys rock!

 

do you let the car just sit for a long time like 3 mo or so..

i had a supra do that due to crud in the tank.

 

I'd better start driving mine. I'm at 9k miles and hate to see 10k roll over.