I did a search and there's no true answer to what this may be. My gas cap is as tight as it possibly could be. I'm afraid that if I bring it to the dealer under warranty, they will re-flash my computer removing the LET tune. Can't believe the code isn't even listed in the links below. Doesn't make sense.

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/dtc.html

Does someone finally have an answer before I go to the steelership? I have reset it and then go days before it reappears. At least it doesn't seem to affect the performance.

 

Found this pdf, p2098 is a lean condition at catalyst, hope the link works.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...98&btnG=Search

 

Running lean after the cat?


EDIT- beat me by seconds.

 

Answer
June 18 2008 at 4:23 PM (23 minutes and 22 seconds later)
ACCEPTED
Hmmm....

I don't doubt what P2098 means (bank 2 02 sensor cat is lean). But it is very strange to find that on a Chrysler...it is not a Chrysler specific code.

There are several things that could be causing this problem, but first some theory.

Exhaust gas leaves your engine and passes by a Oxygen (O2) sensor. This sensor determines how much unburned fuel and other gases are in the exhaust before entering the catalyst. The Gas then passes through the catalyst and then past a rear 02 sensor. This sensor functions exactly the same as the previous one. Now the vehicle computer subtracts the second number from the first to determine engine and catalyst efficiency.

If your vehicle reads 'too lean' then this is a problem, as it will keep adding more and more fuel into the cylinders and if they arn't really lean then you will have poor performance and decreased engine life.

There are several things to check:

1) A visual inspection of the catayst. Some catalysts have a fresh-air supply line that helps them burn more efficiently. If you have one, inspect it for and cracks or tears and kinks.

2) Its possible that the wiring from the rear 02 sensors has a problem, causing high resistence and artificially reading lean. Inspect the wiring (mice love it) for any tears. Pay special attention to any area that holds the wires against something (like a bracket) as these often rub through and short out.

3) Even if they are new, your O2 sensors may be contaminated by other engine problems. If you changed them yourself, please discribe the color of the tips to me as best you can. This will help me determine if a problem exists further up the chain.

Good luck, and let me know!
James_Durochar -- ASE Certified Technician -- 100% Positive Feedback on 8 Car Accepts
5 years auto repair and retail experience!


Found this as well, Good luck. Have a good Thanksgiving!

 

What does your wideband say your AFRs are at under full boost?

 

Interesting stuff.

YOu may want to check for the slow transmission o-ring leak. It will drench the rear O2 wire connectors which are clamped to the tranny pan.

That and maybe a plain old dead O2 sensor.

 

Wow, thanks for the fast replies, especially on Thanksgiving Day! My car only has 9500 miles on her so I have some more snooping around before bringing it in to the dealership. I don't have a wideband since the Autozone guy gave me the code.

Do you think the dealership will re-flash the computer? Don't want to mail in my ECU to LET again.

Maybe a colder plug may solve this problem???

 

240M3SRT was running very lean with the new LET tune. With the colder temps outside, this may be happening to you too. Seeing 240 hitting 17 AFR last week prompted me to finally break down and buy a wideband AF gauge. Until I get it installed, I will be taking it easy on the boost. I put my car on the dyno after getting the latest LET tune and was seeing 12.9 AF but this was at 70 degree temps. I bet we all are seeing lean conditions in these cooler temps but don't know it because we all don't have widebands installed.

 

Dealers usually don't flash computers unless there is a TSB or an actual issue with the computer. I wouldn't worry about that.

But.... Its possible for them to see the computer is tuned. People argue this, but I was part of the Mustang community (which is huge) and it was proven many times a dealer can tell if a computer has been flash if they intentionally look for it. But with that being said, it took a special visit from an engineer and not something any tech or service advisor could do. Just something to look out for.

Maybe contact LET and ask if they'll flash it again if it gets flashed back?

 

In most cars you can tell when the ECU has been flashed because it erases the key cycles, this is how most Dealers find out. This will happen when flash programmers are used hyper tech, Preditor and such. Programs like EFI live won't be picked up at a Dealership because it uses the Factory style inscription but if the ECU is sent out because of warranty concerns it can be picked up also but it is much harder to find and won't accept being flashed over.

 

+2....????

 

Just me being me but for my money I would clear the code after writing it down and then swap the O2 sensors from left to right and see if the fault moves or reoccures again. Simple and pre dealer kind of easy test, ENJOY Woody.

PS look at the sensors to see if there are any colors or details that look different, such as the inside of the pipes ...........Ta DAA

 

I agree with Woody....swap your O2 sensors and see if the problem swaps sides.

Did you notice a pending code for Bank 1 or was it Bank 2 only? If there is no code for Bank 1, then I'm going to guess it's a faulty O2 sensor or faulty cat. It could even be an exhaust leak.

I think that the O2's will need to see 20+ AFR to pop the P2098 code.

I also don't think that anyone else (including 240m3srt) has had this code.

 

Jerry, I also had this code before I sent the ecu back to you for the re-tune, so it's not from the current tune. The gas cap may not be tight enough which could be the main cause. The car only has 9700 miles on her. Not sure where the air/fuel is sitting right now, but I'll know when I see you in Florida next month!

 

Just to add my $0.02.... The Sunday before Thanksgiving I had to drive from Atlanta to Va. Beach, Va., as my aged Grandfather was scheduled for surgery and it was feared he would not survive (He
came through OK). On the way back early Tuesday morning, I noted a couple of times where the
car seemed to "hiccup" while running under cruise control at about 80 mph. It was quite cold and
raining. Long to short, I took it to the dealership service center, and they reported that I had codes
for 2 O2 sensors. Both were replaced. Unfortunately, this was not the real cause of the "hiccup".
As noted in the thread "Extended Warranty (Service Contract) Shennanigans", the real culprit was
the IC water pump failing (again). So, this is the second time I've had to replace O2 sensors, as well as the second time I've had to replace the IC water pump. I would suggest that the O2 sensors are as well built as are the OEM IC water pumps, and you will probably need to replace yours.

BTW, Woody, and others suggested swapping your O2 sensors. Is it that easy? I'm wondering
because my service center required the car for a whole day to replace these. I would not believe
it should take a whole day to replace these, but the service adviser said they were starting the swap out first thing in the morning. I kinda got the impression that this was not an "easy" task.
So, if it is easy enough to swap them from side to side, I'm wondering if perhaps I might be up to
this task should these fail again. Are they welded in, screwed in, or what? I don't know, but I do know that I've no love for the monster truck (big a** Ram truck) the rental agency put me in. Makes
me feel like I'm back behind the wheel of a tractor trailer.

Coyote (hoping the new IC pump arrives today, so I can get rid of this monster truck)

 

O2 sensors are screwed in. They are not that difficult to swap. Don't know why it would take a whole day for that. Anyway as far as the code, if at all possible go back to the stock tune. Run another test and see what's up. If no code then talk with jerry about the tune. Maybe as someone suggested install an AFR meter and see whats going on. Anyway keep us updated.

 

Imagine big spark plugs on a pipe that you can get to , UNDER CAR. Here is my pipe w/o the o2 sensor as I added a data logger and extra BUNG for the sensor, TAAADAAAA
Woody

 

Thanks guys for your inputs. Going back to the stock tune isn't easy since I have to pull my computer, mail it to Jerry...etc., etc....... So I'll just keep resetting it until I see Jerry in person next month.